The official “Prestige Baywide” 2003 Sea Ray 280DA Sundancer thread

ProConMan

Member
Jun 17, 2021
51
Chesapeake Bay
Boat Info
2003 Sea Ray 280DA w/ 5E Kohler
Engines
Twin 4.3L MPI w/ Alpha 1 Gen II Drives
Hi all!

I purchased a 2003 280DA in April of 2021 with twin 4.3L MPI engines driving Alpha 1 gen 2 legs equipped with electric windlass, AC, and 5KW 5E Kohler generator. This post is intended to document my journey of ownership including repairs and upgrades. I hope it will serve well when I go to sell and upgrade to something bigger in 5 years. I also hope it will show others information I have learned along the way.

At the time of purchase, the boat had 200 hours on the motors, and 43 hours on the generator. Regardless of the low hours, most everything worked. When I bought the boat, the gauges were screwy, there was a prop issue, the motors were missing topend, and the PO covered up the fact that the port engine transom assembly steering pin was leaking about 1 gallon per day by vacuuming out the bilge every time I looked at the boat. Insert “get a survey” comments here.

Im actually on the boat as we speak so I’ll add the first records when I return to land life on Monday.
 
Sorry Blueone,

I was on my phone when I posted that and it seemed to be a hassle.

Attached are some photos of the boat and some of the upgrades.
 

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Back in May of this year, I purchased a 2003 Sea Ray 280DA Sundancer with 4.3L MPI mercruisers with Alpha 1 gen 2 drives with 200 hours per engine. It was also equipped with a 5kW Kohler 5E generator with 46 hours. To date, it now has 295 hours on the motors, and 100 hours on the generator. Everything ran just fine and tested OK except the following:

  1. Both engines missing topend
  2. Horrible fuel mileage
  3. Lower expected speeds
  4. Leaking steering pin on port transom assembly
  5. Stereo button LED indicator burned out but still works to turn on/off music
  6. Tachometers are screwy, and super inaccurate
  7. Speedometer not functioning
  8. Fuel gauge not working when below 3/4 tank
  9. Depth finder gauge screen not easily readable (low voltage issue somewhere)
  10. Both trim sender gauges not working
  11. Starboard side battery gauge on 4-in-1 broken
  12. Gauges when used for a long time get cloudy and warm
  13. CO detector out of date and chirping
I also had the following compression numbers and the engines always start right up, and idle smooth and cruise OK. Note, right after I bought the boat, I literally was having small issues every weekend. After 6 weeks of fixing stuff every week, its been a lot more reliable. The motors and outdrives run great, however transom assemblies are questionable.

Port Engine
Port engine sparkplug order

6=back
4= middle
2=front
5=back
3=middle
1=front

Port engine spark plug condition

2= fair
4= fair
6= fair
1= fair
3= fair
5= fair

Port engine compression test

1= 165
3= 165
5= 162
2= 160
4= 160
6= 158

Starboard Engine:

Starboard engine spark plug condition

1= fair
3= fair
5= fair
2= fair
4= fair
6= fair

Starboard motor compression test

2= 155
4= 158
6= 155
1= 160
3= 160
5= 160

Work already completed:
  1. Generator Impeller @ 59 hours (it stopped pumping water, when I went to replace the impeller, I realized it was actually the coupler, but I replaced it anyways)
  2. Generator water pump coupler @ 59 hours (old one cracked)
  3. Generator water pump carbon shaft seal @ 59 hours (old one fell apart into pieces while replacing the pump coupler)
  4. Generator pencil zinc @ 59 hours (the old one was in great shape)
  5. Generator coolant top up
  6. Generator oil top up 2x between 50 and 100 hours (it has to be right at full mark or it will intermittently shutdown)
  7. Windlass finger spring replaced (thought this was the issue but it was the gypsy)
  8. Windlass gypsy replaced (halves separated and were turning/mismatched and it did a shit job of grabbing the chain)
  9. Starboard engine IAC replaced @ 240 hours (was alarming 2 beeps 2 minutes but ran fine - this fixed it)
  10. Michigan wheel vortex 15x16 4 blade AL props replaced with Michigan wheel Apollo 14 5/8 x 16 4 blade SS 8/21 - doing this upgrade gave me the biggest bang for buck ever. It handled like a new boat. It went way faster, and I was now getting 1.5 mph instead of 1.0 mpg - this was why I was burning so much fuel
  11. Replaced both prop hubs (both were already good) 8/21
  12. Replaced both motors spark plugs @ 275 hours
  13. Run compression test @ 200 hours (both motors passed with best possible numbers)
  14. Replace spark plug wires @ 275 hours
  15. Replace distributor caps and rotors @ 275 hours - the rotors looked like crap and I am surprised how well it ran. They ran a lot better after replacing this.
  16. Replace fuel filters/water sep on both motors @ 275 hours
  17. Replace fuel filter/water sep on generator @ 70 hours
  18. Clean flame arrestors 9/21 @ 275 hours
  19. Replace fuel sender 9/21 - this fixed my gauge issue with below 3/4 tank going straight to empty
  20. Replace navigation lights with LED 3800 lightarmor - I hate incandescent
  21. Replace anchor light 9/21
  22. Fix tachometers via selector switch - they were very erratic, I just spun the selector twice and now they are within 50-100 RPM accurate
  23. Hooked up vessel view mobile to starboard motor
  24. Replace cockpit/arch lights with lumitec mirage
  25. Replace compartment lights with LED
  26. Replace cockpit AC plug with new weather housing - the old one stopped closing itself. I added one that is low profile and heavy duty.
  27. Replace cabin lights with LED
  28. Install flat screen TV - used an upside down cabinet mount and had to add a 12 inch coax extension - the antennae was unplugged in the radar arch, I used needle nose pliers to screw it back in and get 70 channels
  29. Install AC adapter behind TV with USB ports for DC mobile charging
  30. Mount and bed grill on swim platform - 4200 my favorite sealant
  31. Add dual CO monitors 1 hardwired, 1 battery powered

Diagnose:
  1. Port engine loses around 1 quart oil per 35 hours (noted there is some oil residue in bilge water – seems to be coming from around where remote oil filter threads into motor)
  2. Blowers occasionally trip breakers after prolonged use (is this an issue?)
  3. Motors are 150 RPM off each at WOT - waiting on Rinda Diacom scanner to arrive to diagnose

Items to inspect:
  1. Outdrive pressure check and seal inspection (port outdrive lost around an 1/8 quart through 75 hours)
  2. Outdrive inspect and grease u joints
  3. Outdrive inspect gimbal bearings
  4. Outdrive inspect steering pins and transom assembly
  5. Transom holes for transom rot

Maintenance to complete:

Outdrives:
  1. Outdrive Impeller and housing replacement both sides
  2. Outdrive trim senders are need replacement (not functioning) - with possible swap to smart craft, is there a different trim sensor required? Stbd motor
  3. Outdrive oil change both sides
  4. Outdrive bellows replacement stbd motor
  5. Outdrive shift cable replacement (not really an issue at this time but might as well?) - afterwards inspect shifting and ignition drop is correct
  6. Replace port motor transom assembly
  7. repaint outdrives
  8. Zinc replacement

Engines
  1. Remove port side motor
  2. Replace port motor water intake hoses
  3. Replace port motor starter
  4. Replace port motor power steering cooler
  5. Replace port motor engine coupler
  6. Replace port motor manifolds and riser
  7. Replace port side gimbal and u joint?;
  8. Replace port side Y-pipe?
  9. Replace port side flappers
  10. Replace port side motor mounts
  11. Fix port motor pulley noise
  12. Replace starboard motor TPS sensor
  13. Replace starboard motor manifolds and risers
  14. Replace port motor TPS sensor
  15. Replace serpentine belts both sides
  16. Replace IAC filters
  17. Change 4.3L motor oil and filters
  18. Name engines with computer port and starboard to allow future merc vessel view install

Generator
  1. Gen oil change and filter
  2. Gen in line fuel filter change
  3. Gen coolant flush
  4. Gen Spark plug change

Engine Room/Shower Sump
  1. Replace generator intake and exhaust hoses
  2. Replace AC intake hose
  3. Replace bilge hoses
  4. Replace bilge blowers
  5. Replace bilge pumps 3x (2 engine 1 shower sump)
  6. Replace level sensors 3x (2 engine 1 shower sump)
  7. Replace ER bulbs with LED’s
  8. Add in analog water tank sensor gauge near E panel
  9. Investigate black water level sensor issues
Cockpit/Cabin
  1. Add 2x transom lights lumitec orbit and put on cockpit channel/switch
  2. Add underwater lights lumitec seablaze x2 spectrum
  3. Make EIM wire harness and splice in poco 3 controller using pyro's method (THANKS!!)
  4. Add RAM phone mount on helm
  5. Rebed and clean and fix bow hatch
  6. Rebed side hatch windows 4x
  7. Rebed rub rails
  8. Rebed side U-Bolts
  9. Rebed center tow hook
  10. Rebed blower covers
  11. Reseal transom locker seam
  12. Do dash layout
  13. Add NMEA backbone
  14. Add Vessel View 403 and connect into NMEA
  15. Replace gauges with 12 inch Simrad NSS12 EVO3 and 7 inch Simrad NSS7 EVO3 (like Paul Hsu's old setup where you put a flat piece aross the curved gauge cluster)
  16. Add Simrad AP44 autopilot
  17. Add Simrad Halo 20+ radar
  18. Maaaaaybe add camera(s) for night
  19. Replace VHF radio with something.... def with AIS
  20. Replace Clarion with Fusion something....
  21. Install Xintex XING-1BB-R gas vapor detection/alarm with blower control
  22. Fix depth gauge bad voltage issues (screen is hard to read) <-maybe just replace this altogether with another transducer that would fit and work with the Simrad MFD's
  23. Replace transom shower (handle leaks and is disgusting)
  24. Fix transom locker door misalignment - only 1 catch works
  25. Fix starboard captains cockpit FWD EIM hatch, it falls constantly when running
  26. Get Prestige Baywide graphics for trunk
  27. Replace switch panels with FP marine EIM mod
  28. Replace speakers with JB audio light ups
  29. Add subwoofer to entertainment center
  30. Replace boot stripe
  31. Buff and wax job
  32. Redo biminis
  33. Redo camper canvas Isinglass
  34. Redo Mooring Cover
  35. General hull inspection
  36. Gelcoat repair on swim platform (has exposed glass where it was chipped)

*Edit: I accidentally thanked Stray Current instead of pyro for the EIM poco 3 module integration mod, Stray Current has just inspired me as well so I had a slip of the tongue. Huge shoutout to both people for inspiration, as well as the Official 280DA thread.
 
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Hello all,

I wanted to take this post to describe what I learned about SmartCraft, why my 280DA doesn't have it, and what the possibilities are for upgrades.

My boat is a 2003, which was 1 year before Sea Ray started adding SmartCraft gauges and functions (Mercury's digital CAN network for marine engines). Mercury however had engines available with SmartCraft capability as early as 2002 (for Mercruisers... I believe...). This meant that while my boat didn't convey any of the benefits of SmartCraft, the engines did have the plug, which makes it possible to upgrade easily and economically.

This meant, that I currently have analog gauges, including a 4 in 1, tachs, pitot driven speedo, engine sync, fuel level, and depth sounder on the dash (along with a clarion remote)

The fact that the motors have the plug, essentially means that I can rip out every single gauge I have, and install glass screens that display and interact with that information, as well as a lot more (ex. fuel burn).

My gauges are OK at best. Trims dont display, STBD battery voltage is dead, and the gauges become hard to read after operating, as they heat up and the glass turns to a milky complexion. The backlights are also mostly burnt out. Therefore, along with the added benefits of glass and ability to add autopilot, I decided to rip they all out and modernize all the gauges.

This requires a network similar to what is shown in the attached image. Essentially in the 280DA setup, you have to run a SmartCraft trunk cable from each motor to individual J-Boxes in the helm. The trunk cables I used were Mercury - Harness assy-25ft - PN - 84-879981T25 (NOTE: these are different from the attached diagram, the last 2 numbers dictate the length, pick one in a 5 increment that works for your boat). The J-boxes I used were 6-port to future proof, and are Mercury Marine Quicksilver 6 Port Junction Box Kit DTS No Caps PN 98-878492T16. Buy as many weather plugs as needed to seal unused ports. From there you also need Mercury - Harness asy-link - 84-891957K01 to connect together the J-boxes and allow them to talk. From there, you also need Mercury - Harness-adaptor - 84-892323T01 which allows you to connect both J-boxes together and talk to a central point, in this case, my VV 403, but it could also be Vessel View Mobile, Merc. NMEA gateway, 3rd party engine gateways, or Vessel View Link (note there are single, and multi-engine versions of VV Link, so I advise just get VV 403, it costs the same and has a display - Each were $1k at time of posting - OR get the Merc NMEA gateway, as its only $400 at time of posting, however you are limited to your MFD's interpretation of graphics, and I prefer the link interpretation), OR the new VV connect (which allows operation with Raymarine and Garmin units - THERE IS NO SUPPORT FOR FURUNO IF YOU WANT ENGINE INFO ON ONE OF THEIR MFD). I'm using the VV 403, because it gives me an extra screen anyways, and allows integration with Simrad and Lowrance. I chose Simrad due to my nerdy side, and also because they make the screens for Merc's Vessel View kits. A close second was raymarine, but that would have been minues the VV 403 screen, since you need VV connect, which doesn't have a screen and costs the same.

And finally, you go from your end 'gateway' to a NMEA network, which allows integration with MFD's. But WAIT, one last step, if you have twins, you have to get a dealer to name the port engine. All engines that leave without integration are named STBD by default, so since you have twins, you have two STBD engines on the same network, which causes it not to work. So have a dealer hook up and change the port engines name to PORT. So there you have it. A simple novel on how to install a CAN network for Mercruisers, (works for most new Merc outboards too), onto a boat that doesn't have it.

***Note: This post does NOT cover how to hook up trim, fuel, and other sensors to the SmartCraft network. That will be covered in a future post after I flesh it out some more with the parts I have.
 

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For even more smartcraft data and control you can bridge SC to N2K with the new Smartcraft Connect.

-Kevin
 
For even more smartcraft data and control you can bridge SC to N2K with the new Smartcraft Connect.

-Kevin
Hi Kevin,

I had thought the Connect was merely the version of 'link' that allowed Raymarine and Garmin to work, is this not the case?
 
Hi Kevin,

I had thought the Connect was merely the version of 'link' that allowed Raymarine and Garmin to work, is this not the case?

While I have not used them, according to the docs the links/gateways just gives data and the connects you get more info on alarm data and better integration when using the Raymarine or Garmin MFDs.

-Kevin
 
I will edit my previous post of specs to achieve but wanted to add something for the record. I have since realized that a NSS9 Evo3 display wont fit down below. A VV903 does because its overall footprint is smaller with no physical button interface. Due to this I have changed to utilizing an NSS7 Evo3, it should fit just right based on size.

Also I have access to the Solidworks CAD program due to my work, so I have decided to generate my own .dxf files and get them cut out by a friend. I will first make a template, attempt to recreate it in CAD, then get my friend with a plotter printer to print it, I will test it, redesign it, until its perfect. I just saw too many possible fitment issues, and given my resources thought to redo the templates.
 
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I wanted to take this post to promote Magma grills and lumitec lighting. For modern upgrades, there is not better choice. The grill is perfect and albeit expensive, you pay for the material an it's a great solution. Lumitec has the ability to convey data over a 2 wire network, which is rare, amazing, and perfect given a retrofit solution, it saves a lot of time not having to run more wires.
 
I will edit my previous post of specs to achieve but wanted to add something for the record. I have since realized that a NSS9 Evo3 display wont fit down below. A VV903 does because its overall footprint is smaller with no physical button interface. Due to this I have changed to utilizing an NSS7 Evo3, it should fit just right based on size.

Also I have access to the Solidworks CAD program due to my work, so I have decided to generate my own .dxf files and get them cut out by a friend. I will first make a template, attempt to recreate it in CAD, then get my friend with a plotter printer to print it, I will test it, redesign it, until its perfect. I just saw too many possible fitment issues, and given my resources thought to redo the templates.

There was another member that was working on, (with pics) the "Glass Gash" integrated to VV/Smart Craft and the CAD dash that your preparing for just recently (4-6 months). I think it was also 280 or close. Tried a couple of different search's but it has eluded me.

Following for sure!
 
Hey Mitch,

I only know of Paul Hsu's setup, and 1 other member whose name I can't recall. That said I'm looking to have a "looks like stock" setup so I'm bound to plot/cut until the template is perfect.
 
If anyone approves of the 'after' photos, I would be more than happy to duplicate for a reasonable price. As a production engineer, I have my ways. I have unlimited access to Solidworks, and the subsequent data management systems
 
Just received my Rinda Diacom scanner, as well as placed all orders for glass, and bought the Simrad AP44 autopilot. I cannot wait for next year after the upgrades.
 
Just wanted to share a sneak preview of the planned dash. NSS12 Evo3 in the center, VV403 on the left, AP44 on the right, and ERX400 fusion wired remote on left. Going to add a few carling switches and then get a dry fit printed so I can check the fit.
 

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Final Dash attached
 

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Welp,

Was out over the weekend and the starboard switchpad went completely bonkers, predominantly the nav, anchor, complight, and bilgelight buttons.

Crazy indicators when stuff isn't on, and the compartment light sometimes is actually the horn.

I really wanted to avoid spending the money on the FP marine retrofit but I dont want to buy a used keypad for $600 and play the waiting game for something else in the system...

F***
 
Welp,

Was out over the weekend and the starboard switchpad went completely bonkers, predominantly the nav, anchor, complight, and bilgelight buttons.

Crazy indicators when stuff isn't on, and the compartment light sometimes is actually the horn.

I really wanted to avoid spending the money on the FP marine retrofit but I dont want to buy a used keypad for $600 and play the waiting game for something else in the system...

F***

Start with cleaning and sealing the CANBUS connection with dielectric grease.

-Kevin
 
Update to my maintenance doc below, will update to excel eventually...

Lots of stuff the strikethrough didn't convey from MS word. The transom assemblies have been replaced, motors are prepped and should be dropping in soon. Lumitec below water lights installed but no work on the glass dash transition.

Diagnose:
  1. Motors are 150 RPM off each at WOT
Maintenance to complete:

Boat Bottom:

  1. Touch up bottom paint
  2. Paint lights with 1 inch separation then self-etch, then primocon, then Trilux 33
Outdrives:
  1. Outdrive Impeller and housing replacement both sides
  2. Outdrive pressure check and seal inspection (port outdrive lost around an 1/8 quart through 75 hours)
  3. Outdrive replace u joints (transom assy)
  4. Outdrive replace gimbal bearings (transom assy)
  5. Outdrive replace both sides transom assemblies
  6. Inspect Transom holes for transom rot (holes had no rot and stringers fully solid - good to go)
  7. Outdrive trim sender replacement for smart craft
  8. Outdrive oil change both sides
  9. Outdrive shift cable replacement (not really an issue at this time but might as well?) - afterwards inspect shifting and ignition drop is correct
  10. repaint outdrives - use SEM self etch, then Primocon, then Trilux 33 (brushed where possible, spray everywhere else)
  11. Zinc replacement (plus trim tabs)
Engines:
  1. Remove port and starboard motors
  2. Replace port and starboard motor water intake hoses and engine hoses - replaced intake hoses and most other hoses good to go
  3. Replace port motor exhaust coolant elbow (leaking)
  4. Replace port and starboard motor starter
  5. Replace port and starboard motor engine coupler
  6. Inspect port and starboard motor manifolds and riser - inspection good, looks pretty new - check in 2024-2025
  7. Sand and paint exhaust elbows
  8. Inspect exhaust rubbers - good to go
  9. Replace all worm gear clamps with high quality SS
  10. Replace port and starboard side Y-pipes
  11. Replace port and starboard side flappers
  12. Replace port and starboard side motor mounts
  13. Fix port motor pulley noise
  14. Replace starboard motor TPS sensor
  15. Replace port motor TPS sensor
  16. Replace serpentine belts both sides - not needed, not done
  17. Replace IAC filters
  18. Change 4.3L motor oil and filters
  19. Name engines with computer port and starboard to allow future merc vessel view install
Generator
  1. Gen oil change and filter
  2. Gen in line fuel filter change
  3. Gen coolant flush?
  4. Gen Spark plug change
Engine Room/Shower Sump
  1. Replace generator intake hoses below water line
  2. Replace AC intake hose and below water lines
  3. Replace bilge hoses
  4. Replace bilge blowers with Yellowfin blowers
  5. Replace bilge pumps 3x (2 engine 1 shower sump)
  6. Replace level sensors 3x (2 engine 1 shower sump)
  7. Replace ER bulbs with LED’s
  8. Add in analog water tank sensor gauge near E panel
  9. Measure water tank to determine size
  10. Investigate black water level sensor issues
Cockpit/Cabin
  1. Frank Russo – The House of Foam 1964.55, material sileather at 10 yards for $500 and Barb at $1800 orig. est. for the job ($600 DP, plus $1000 for main cushions so far)
  2. Fix chips on swim platform and shoot new gelcoat - $1500 with Mike at the yard
  3. Fix missing bolt on grill mount
  4. Add TV mount retainer chain and clip to store for while moving
  5. Add 2x transom lights Lumitec orbit
  6. Add 3x underwater lights Lumitec SeaBlaze x2 spectrum
    1. Run each to independent fuses on ER fusing block (added block)
  7. Make EIM wire harness
  8. Splice in poco 3 controller using pyro's method
  9. Add fusing block and fuse in ER
    1. Need to prepare 2 AWG battery cables
  10. Add fusing block and fuse in helm
    1. Need to prepare 2 AWG battery cables
  11. Add battery switch for both AF fusing blocks
  12. Add RAM phone mount on helm
  13. Rebed and clean and fix bow hatch
  14. Rebed side hatch windows 4x
  15. Rebed rub rails
  16. Rebed side U-Bolts
  17. Rebed center tow hook
  18. Rebed blower covers
  19. Reseal transom locker seam
  20. Do dash layout
  21. Add NMEA backbone
  22. Add SmartCraft backbone and J-boxes
    1. Install trunk cables on each engine
    2. Install 2x J-boxes
    3. Install J-box link cable
    4. Install dual j-box harness to VV403
  23. Add Vessel View 403 and connect into NMEA
  24. Add 12-inch Simrad NSS12 EVO3
  25. Add 7-inch Simrad NSS9 EVO3
  26. Add Simrad AP44 autopilot
    1. Mount screen
    2. Mount computer
    3. Mount compass
    4. Mount pump
    5. Add Simrad rudder feedback
      1. LF3000 cylinder and LFI3000Mk2 interface box
  27. Add USB port charger on top dash
  28. Install Xintex XING-1BB-R gas vapor detection/alarm with blower control
  29. Convert steering to dual hydraulic (remove and replace the steering cable)
    1. Add hydraulic tilt steering – West Marine Pro HH6541-3
    2. Add hydraulic steering cylinder - West marine Pro HC5328-3
    3. Add premade hydraulic lines – West marine pro, measure to length
  30. Change trailer up switch to covered switch
  31. Add Simrad Halo 20+ radar
  32. Add transducer to replace Lowrance 3500
  33. Add Simrad RS40-B or Vesper Cortex
  34. Add fusion stereo
    1. Add fusion RA770 head unit
    2. Add fusion ERX400 wired remote
    3. Add fusion wireless remote
    4. Replace speakers with JB audio light ups
    5. Add subwoofer to entertainment center
  35. Fix depth gauge bad voltage issues (screen is hard to read) that would fit and work with the Simrad MFD's
  36. Replace transom shower (handle leaks and is disgusting) - replace transom shower hose with SS hose
  37. Replace toilet seat with soft close
  38. Add Bidet to Toilet
  39. Fix transom locker door misalignment - only 1 catch works
  40. Fix starboard captains’ cockpit FWD EIM hatch, it falls constantly when running
  41. Get Prestige Baywide graphics for trunk
  42. Replace switch panels with FP marine EIM mod
  43. Replace boot stripe
  44. Buff and wax job - asked to schedule
  45. Engine bay detail - asked to schedule
  46. Redo Biminis
  47. Redo camper canvas Isinglass
  48. Redo Mooring Cover
  49. General hull inspection - SOLID, no blisters
Winter 2021/2022 overhaul parts list (prices listed are from 2022):
  1. 2x Plastic Timing Cover with integrated seal and maybe sep gasket between timing cover and block - 888777T NLA used 18-4511 - USE 2x 8M0069799 from PartsVu - $309.95 each
  2. 2x get 165 t stats 3856961 2x 18-3677 from PartsVu - $21.14 each
  3. 2x Oil pan gasket from boats.net 27-14247T1 <- NLA used 138651 27-8M0150304 - 2x 14247T1 - $133.22
  4. Front engine mount from boats.net - 4x 66284A2 - $111.36 and 4x 12657 tab lock - $3.53 and 8x 20739 nuts - $5.18, and ¾ lock washer 4x 68102 - $2.14
  5. 2x Starter Motor from boats.net - $250 - 2x 863007A1 - $232.21
  6. 2x circulatory pumps from boats.net - 2x 8503991 - $157.36
  7. 2x drive mounting gaskets from boats.net - 2x 64818A2 superceded by 94996Q2
  8. replace remote oil lines from boats.net 2x 864926 - $191.51 and 2x 864927 - $82.54 and 4x 843353 - $4.00 and 2x 42077 - $11.01
  9. 2x Water pump kit, circulatory from boats.net - 2x 8M0100526 - $47.07
  10. 2x Drive Couplers - 18643A from NuWave $892.13 total
  11. 2x New bottles for the outdrive lube from boats.net - 2x 806193A46 - $120 total
  12. 2x Hose from boats.net that goes from transom assembly to power steering cooler - $120 total
  13. Get 2x Y-pipes with baffles and get 8x mount screws, 8x washers, and 2x seals - ordered all from ProMarine - $1491.98 total
  14. 2x Alpha 1 Gen 2 transom assemblies - $5,119.98 total
  15. Hydraulic Steering system - ~$1700 total from WestMarinePro
  16. 4 sets of 10 Scandvik stainless size 80 from Nuwave - $75.99 ea or $303.96 total plus tax
  17. T-fitting for manifold cooling from Nuwave - 863786A - $38.29 plus tax
  18. 8x Alpha Trim Ram E-clips from boats.net - 18-2345 - $3.83 ea or $30.64 - $42.43 after tax and shipping
  19. 2x cans of Trilux 33 sprayable outdrive bottom paint - $100
  20. 1x gallon can of SeaChoice Ablative bottom paint - $94.59
  21. 2x alpha zinc kits and 2x 4 inch zincs - $189.81
  22. 1x quart trilux 33, 1x quart primocon, 1x spray primocon - $225.95
  23. 2x SEM self etching primer sprays - $48.06
  24. 4x IAC filters - $31.72
  25. 1x SS transom shower hose - $18.66
  26. 1x transom shower kit - $186.06
Action Items:
  • Where to mount AP
  • How many lines and what length each one
  • Get schematic diagram showing hookups and lines

Total from Nuwave = $6,394.89
Total from Boats.net = $2,691.90
Total from PartsVu = $666.81
Total from ProMarine = $1,491.98
Total from Cobe Marine = $384.40
Total from Amazon = $98.44
Total from Defender = $225.94
Total from Other = $186.06

Total Spent: $12,140.42

Electronics/other parts to be purchased:
  1. Simrad Halo20+ radar - $2069
  2. Radar mount - $400
  3. Vesper Cortex VHF/AIS - $1850
  4. Hydraulic steering helm pump - $780
  5. Hydraulic steering cylinder - $400
  6. Hydraulic steering lines - $400
  7. Transducer - $400
  8. LF3000 and LFI3000Mk2 linear rudder sensor - $520
  9. Audio
    1. Add fusion RA770 head unit - $580
    2. Add fusion ERX400 wired remote - $180
    3. Add fusion wireless remote - $45
    4. Replace speakers with JB audio light ups - $800
    5. Add subwoofer to entertainment center - $385
Total: $8,800

Credits:
  • Paul Hsu for the dash design
  • Pyro for the Lumitec integration design
  • Stray Current for an informative build thread
  • Josh28161 for the AP install info for hydraulic conversion
 

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