Texas Deep Freeze = Cracked...something on 2016 Mercury 4.5L Alpha

[Arminius]

Steve Berman pretty much invented class actions. Some have involved individual damages much more trivial than your's: https://www.hbsslaw.com/
CAMCO's instructions are detailed. They have a warranty available on Amazon which probably is a disclaimer of all warranties and a warning that you have assumed the risk. Never know though.
Maybe a 4.3 will fit in there. They were wide 90 degree blocks. Don't know if Merc went to the narrower 60 degree when they had the opportunity. The 60 degree is balanced and does not require balance shafts in automotive applications. But your engine compartment could be unexpectedly narrow.

 

[Marcus Matos]

If it was indeed drained first there should have been no water left to freeze. Adding the AF should have done no harm (you would think).

The "kit" calls for running a full 5 gallons thru the engine, not just until pink shows up at the exhaust.

The jug is 5 gallons. I kind of remember thinking that when I opened the drain, not as much came out as I would have expected. I neglected to mention that during the beginning of the process I had followed the video and ran tap water, which I figured would have the benefit of flushing out a little of the lake gunk before I switched the tap to the antifreeze. Does it make sense that perhaps I just got real unlucky on the stat timing where it sucked in a lot of cold tap water but not as much antifreeze?

I read elsewhere that the antifreeze coming out could be real misleading.

 

[GypsmJim]

The jug is 5 gallons. I kind of remember thinking that when I opened the drain, not as much came out as I would have expected. I neglected to mention that during the beginning of the process I had followed the video and ran tap water, which I figured would have the benefit of flushing out a little of the lake gunk before I switched the tap to the antifreeze. Does it make sense that perhaps I just got real unlucky on the stat timing where it sucked in a lot of cold tap water but not as much antifreeze?

I read elsewhere that the antifreeze coming out could be real misleading.

So you drained the water (a good thing), but then added more water to the block before you added the antifreeze? Doesn't sound like a preferable way to go, but that's just me.

Antifreeze will always come out the exhaust. The issue is whether its coming out AFTER going thru the block, or bypassing the block because the TS is closed.

I personally prefer to leave the corrosion resistance properties of the AF in the block all winter. But only after I remove a few ounces to ensure that I have in fact filled the block with AF.

I used a "kit" (not a Camco) for about 15 years with no problems. Regardless, if you read the various boat forums, the quickie flush procedure is frowned upon by many because of the numerous cracked blocks that are the result.

 

[Marcus Matos]

So you drained the water (a good thing), but then added more water to the block before you added the antifreeze? Doesn't sound like a preferable way to go, but that's just me

Yup, probably the fatal mistake. From the kit: "
No coolant - water nor antifreeze - will flow freely
through the engine block until operating temperature is maintained. The D-I-Y is unique in that, once operating temperature is reached and then some time allowed for flushing of impurities from the engine with fresh water, the fresh water supply is replaced with antifreeze to winterize the engine for storage"

 

[Lazy Daze]

Some water ALWAYS bypasses the t-stat, regardless of temperature.

 

[Arminius]

In my unsuccessful test of this system, I used my garden hose brass "Y" fitting and a tub of 4 gallons of 50% green ethylene. I let the MPI engine (high temp thermostat) warm up on house water till the gauge hit 160 degrees, I think. Whatever I'd seen before. Then I turned the valves on the "Y" cutting off the flow from the hose bib and commencing suction from the tub. Shut the engine off when the tub was nearly empty. Then I drained the engine but the outflow in the pail was barely tinged, let alone the deep green of the contents of the AF tub. My buddy used to have a bow picker pushed by a pair of 454's when the first boat to the opening in Alaska got the commercial fish and he's the one who told me this would work. Maybe it did before Mercruiser went to injection and hot thermostats.

 

[Marcus Matos]

I'm looking at around $17,000 for repairs ($10K in parts) and seem to be out of options. I think my best option is to cut my losses and perhaps stick to used OB boats that I can easily work on/find parts for. This was my first I/O and after my experience (engine fire a few months after purchase - replaced under warranty) and now this, I'm having my regrets...

Any opinion on what I might be able to sell this thing for? NADA seems to think the overall package may be worth ~$29K. How ridiculous would it be to try and just sell it (including trailer and the ~$2K in accessories I added on last year) for something like $12K to someone who wants a project?

 

[Pirate Lady]

Marcus, don’t get soured on I/o, many of us have had them 30+ years with no problems, diff is we live in freezing winters so very experienced dealing with proper winterizing. I posted up thread, Will a merc 5.7 fit your boat. I seen remans $4500. Talking about the original merc carburetored 5.7. As for selling yours, it’s worth what someone will pay, no motor, harder sell.

 

[Pirate Lady]

OH, that southern deep freeze, quite certain you aren’t alone, I bet there a whole lot of un-winterized engines busted down there.

 

[scoflaw]

Mini-Update: It's not looking good. They're just now getting started on my engine but report that out of the 10 4.5L and 6.2L they have, 9 of them had cracking in the cylinder walls. In most cases, some damage to the exhaust manifold too. On top of that, no availability for long block remans for this engine...

So basically, everything @LastCall350 and @Arminius said on Page 1 of the thread.

So what did these 9 owners do?

 

[BillK2632]

A GM 4.3 would be an option - a little less HP but should pretty much drop right in and a whole lot less than a Merc 4.5. If you go to a V8 then you might be looking at changing the outdrive due to the different ratio between a V6 and V8. Afraid if do go this rout your looking at a complete engine - not sure if any of the parts - alternator, manifolds / risers will work on a 4.3. But still you can can a complete drop in 4.3 for a lot less than $17k.

 

[GypsmJim]

I'm looking at around $17,000 for repairs ($10K in parts) and seem to be out of options. I think my best option is to cut my losses and perhaps stick to used OB boats that I can easily work on/find parts for. This was my first I/O and after my experience (engine fire a few months after purchase - replaced under warranty) and now this, I'm having my regrets...

Any opinion on what I might be able to sell this thing for? NADA seems to think the overall package may be worth ~$29K. How ridiculous would it be to try and just sell it (including trailer and the ~$2K in accessories I added on last year) for something like $12K to someone who wants a project?

Only you can make that decision. Just don't get the idea that the newer OBs are easy to work on. All this computerized technology is great, but the average guy does not have the software and IT skills to fix them.

I guess if I the boat met my needs I'd just bite the bullet and pay the man. You will suffer a huge loss on the boat and then have to pay out a lot for a new one. Just figure your total cost to make the change.

Before I did anything In would shop around. 17K seems like an obscene price. You may do better somewhere else.

 

[Marcus Matos]

So what did these 9 owners do?

Good question. I'll call them (the service center) tomorrow and ask out of curiosity.

 

[Pirate Lady]

As Jim said in 2nd paragraph you may spend a lot more selling and buying. As for a $12k project boat, that’s a hard sell. I paid $10k for a low hours, Very good condition 250. Pier neighbor paid $7k for a 4yo 340 had a cabin fire, needs interior. Most looking for a project boat aren’t paying $12k. I have posted this before, if you lying $17k to get a rebuilt motor installed you are getting ripped off. Haul that baby to Maryland and get it done for 7-8k.

 

[Pirate Lady]

Dam auto spell. Lying = paying.

 

[Marcus Matos]

Before I did anything In would shop around. 17K seems like an obscene price. You may do better somewhere else.

I thought so too but it seems there's consensus that the long block is going to run a cool 10K. I don't know if shopping around is going to help when the only option is to buy new from Mercury. It sounds like folks here believe that repowering is an option...I suppose I could call around and try to figure out how to even get started with quotes on that.

Parts list attached...

 

[Pirate Lady]

Ya with that engine you are right, I was just trying other cheaper options suggesting the 5.7.

 

[douglee25]

I found brand new long blocks for around $6500 plus shipping.

Part #8M0114790 (I believe).

Your best bet is going to put a new long block in there assuming your existing parts are in good shape. Since the boat is a 2016, I'd sure hope the rest is OK, but you really need to do a full inspection of EVERYTHING including your exhaust, intake, and hosing/HX'er (if it has one) before you decide. If you go the carb route (which you could), you'll essentially lose all your connectivity with your ECM, plus then you have to worry about getting your exhaust to hook up, engine mounts, flexplate, etc. It's all doable with time and money. Going this way would also help with resale. This swap is just simple stuff... nuts and bolts.

I don't know what kind of space you have, but I could complete the work here in my shop at a reasonable rate. I'll also give you a discount if you help and want to learn. I'm located in North Dallas. Let me know.

 

[douglee25]

I just saw your parts list above... looks like our numbers match for the engine. He's taking roughly a 25% increase against parts, which honestly is pretty fair. You'll see if you google the exhaust part numbers, nothing appears similar to a 5.0/5.7 riser or manifold. It's all Merc's design. Even if you had to purchase ALL new parts as listed, I think you could save around 1500-2k from his quote on parts. So you'd still be in it for $9k in parts plus labor.

 

[Chip S]

Mercury sells a complete remanufactured 4.3L carb engine for $7612.50 ( https://propridemarine.com/4-3l-alp...MIqaDi_r3f7wIVITizAB14cgj7EAQYAyABEgKie_D_BwE ). Since its a complete engine the installation cost should be much less. You can probably also sell the parts off of your old engine. Your still looking at a total cost of probably $10k, but that's less than $17k.