H2ONUT
Well-Known Member
I am trying to do a search here at work, but the word "wood" is among those that they block for some reason... :smt021
Is there a filler/putty for teak?
Is there a filler/putty for teak?
Teak Question
- Thread starter H2ONUT
- Start date
Henry Boyd
Well-Known Member
- Apr 24, 2007
- 6,014
- Boat Info
- ‘09 Sabre 38 Hardtop Express “Serenity”
- Engines
- Volvo D6 w/IPS450 Pods
Depends on the application. If you are going to polyurethane for example you can fill shallow surface divets with epoxy. I use teak dust mixed with epoxy when I need to fill a deeper defect. This can work if you plan to oil finish depending on the size of the defect. The big thing is to get the surface of the epoxy to match the surface roughness of the teak.
One note on mixing wood dust with epoxy. Epoxy generates heat as it cures. In small batches (less than a teaspoon) mixing dust is ok. Mixing larger batches supposedly can be dangerous. I've never done a Mythbusters' test to see it was true, or not.
Henry
One note on mixing wood dust with epoxy. Epoxy generates heat as it cures. In small batches (less than a teaspoon) mixing dust is ok. Mixing larger batches supposedly can be dangerous. I've never done a Mythbusters' test to see it was true, or not.
Henry
- Oct 6, 2006
- 12,155
- Boat Info
- 1996 450DA
- Engines
- 3116 Caterpillars
The problem with filling teak for exterior applications is that teak "moves" a lot. I suppose the correct description is that it has a high coefficient of expansion. Even teak dust and epoxy will eventually crack and separate from the wood in time. The best way to handle teak is to expoxy then mechanically fasten joints with screws and finally fill the screw holes with plugs cut from teak.
You won't have significant expansion problems with Henry's method if the teak application is an interior one.
You won't have significant expansion problems with Henry's method if the teak application is an interior one.
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
What are you working on?
Can you cut or route out the damaged section and glue a new section in?
It can be quite a bit of surgery, but I've done it a couple of times on customers old mahogany doors. I've routed out a crack in the face of a jamb and glued in a new section. it worked pretty good but I didn't go top to bottom on the jamb so yes you could see the patch. If this is a step or swimstep it may be easy to remove the damaged/cracked section and install a new piece.
Can you cut or route out the damaged section and glue a new section in?
It can be quite a bit of surgery, but I've done it a couple of times on customers old mahogany doors. I've routed out a crack in the face of a jamb and glued in a new section. it worked pretty good but I didn't go top to bottom on the jamb so yes you could see the patch. If this is a step or swimstep it may be easy to remove the damaged/cracked section and install a new piece.
H2ONUT
Well-Known Member
They are pieces that make up the entry way to the cabin. One piece is split, I know I can open that up a bit from the back and force glue into it and clamp it. The other pieces are where the current screws are set below the surface. The edge of the recess has a small chunk missing. I should drill that out and plug it? Then re-drill the recess? The other pieces have holes where a hasp once was. I plan on putting a new hasp back on, but want to fill those holes and drill just off to the side of the current holes.
CaptainH
New Member
I have been fabricating some teak projects recently and upon the advise of some of the other members I got some West Systems G/flex epoxy for putting joints together. It has not withstood the test of time for me yet but I am amazed at the bonding strength it has on teak and probably everything else. I had a piece blow out screwing a mitered corner that I glued back in and it was like it was never missing even after heavy sanding with only one day cure.