Taylor Made Hatch - Sealing Issues w/leak

[jaywoodz]

You mentioned you got the Taylor "foam" tape. Do some googling on butyl rubber tape - it is NOTHING like foam tape. Do what you want, but my recommendation to throw the foam tape away still stands.

Even though I didn't reply, I took everyone's advice, and put the foam tape back in the box. I went to the local West Marine here, and gave them my car title for a package of butyl tape (24.99, https://www.westmarine.com/buy/incom--butyl-caulking-tape--P015730286). I'm sure I could have ordered it from somewhere for less than half the price, but since it's been raining the past 3 days, I needed to get this done.

A few days ago, I set up a tarp over the hatch so it would be dry when I came back yesterday and worked on it. Had a friend come and help me scrape off every single piece of sealant and crap from both the deck, and the hatch itself (underside). It took the both of us with a hairdryer, razor blade knife, and wirebrush to get it clean and debris-free. It's smooth, and completely free of sealant, probably the first time I've ever done it that thorough.

We took the butyl tape and put it on the hatch itself, then put the hatch on the deck and mashed it down well. Screwed it back in, and let it sit - but still covered with the tarp - it's been on and off over the past day. Once it's dry, and sunny, I plan to go back and add a thin line of the 3M UV 4000 sealant suggested earlier in this thread, and put it around the 2 sides, and lower portion of the deck (if you're looking toward the aft of the boat). The top side, where the window connects to the hatch, that's going to be hard to seal while attached to the boat. Any suggestions there?

Before we cleaned and sealed the hatch, the leaking was still happening, especially with the rain over the past few days, and it spread a little farther down the ceiling. I set up a fan, and set the heat at 70 degrees (it's around 40 degrees here today) to prevent the crinkling of the ceiling. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to thin that out, and make it smooth/dry? I mean, the only way to properly dry it out would be to leave the hatch completely off, pull the vinyl ceiling back, and blow air into it. But then, I'd have to re-stretch the ceiling, re-staple, and do a number of things. In the past when it's done this, I just left it alone, and a week or two later, it was dried out. I assume keeping the heat in the cabin high to dry up the moisture would help it dry out quicker.

But either way, so far so good - obviously won't know for sure that it's working until I get that thin line of sealant around it, and we have another good rain, or I test with a hose. Either way, still needs to dry completely.

Any thoughts or suggestions are highly anticipated!

 

[peterkvs]

When you bed a hatch you should use enough sealant so that when you screw it down it squeezes out everywhere. You have to be careful not to over tighten the screws on the flange as you don't want to twist or distort the flange. If using caulk from a tube, It helps if you apply masking tape on the deck of the boat all the way around the hatch about an 1/8" away from the edge of the hatch. Then you can clean up the edge with a scalper and finish the edge with your finger. If you used butyl tape you should have used enough to get a small bead to squeeze out from under the hatch which you can trim off with an xacto knife. If you used butyl tape you need to stretch a little tape and wrap it under each screw head where the top of the threads and bottom of screw head meet. Your thin bead of caulk you plan to apply is useless and will only trap water under the lid. Topical applications of sealant never last, the sealant always has to go between two opposed surfaces to work.

Hope this helps.

Pete

 

[Lazy Daze]

If you used the butyl tape properly, there is ZERO need to use anything else. Also, this stuff is immediately usable - meaning, don't worry if it gets wet. The stuff never really dries. As mentioned above, putting sealant around the edge of the hatch is really just a stop gap measure - it won't last long there. Plus, by putting it only around the forward edge and sides, you're creating an area where water and dirt can gather. In freezing temps, that could cause other issues. I didn't notice anyone recommending that above, but I would avoid doing that.

FYI, that price on the butyl is a "little" high (but it was readily available... and at WM, afterall), but it's really not that bad. Remember, this stuff lasts at least as long, if not longer, than even the best tube sealants. And, it's easy(er) to remove and re-bed when needed.

 

[jaywoodz]

I have not applied the sealant. I may take everyone's advice, and not apply the sealant. I didn't think that by applying the sealant to the opposing 3 sides, it actually would retain water at one point. It's almost like we're oversimplifying the process, when it's easy to apply the butyl tape, and leave it be. The key, is to remove all the sealant, and tape prior to applying. I even sanded the deck so it was smooth with no bumps. The butyl tape wasn't super thick, and does NOT stick out past the hatch, so there's a small lip underneath before the tape starts, but IMO, that shouldn't matter - correct?

 

[aceshigh]

correct. if your in warm weather or in the spring when its warmer you can go around and snug up the fasteners. The butyl tape settles in after the sun warms it up

 

[wayne0]

The butyl tape is a sealing tape, nothing liquid about it. use that and you won't need anything else. additionly once you use it you won't want to mess with caulking guns ever again

Sounds like the stuff you use on windshields.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I have not applied the sealant. I may take everyone's advice, and not apply the sealant. I didn't think that by applying the sealant to the opposing 3 sides, it actually would retain water at one point. It's almost like we're oversimplifying the process, when it's easy to apply the butyl tape, and leave it be. The key, is to remove all the sealant, and tape prior to applying. I even sanded the deck so it was smooth with no bumps. The butyl tape wasn't super thick, and does NOT stick out past the hatch, so there's a small lip underneath before the tape starts, but IMO, that shouldn't matter - correct?

No, does not need to stick out past the hatch. As long as it's sealed properly underneath, you're good.