Taylor Made Hatch - Sealing Issues w/leak

jaywoodz

Member
Nov 12, 2012
522
Richmond, Virginia
Boat Info
1999 Sea Ray 310 Sundancer
Engines
Twin 350 MAG MPI Horizon w/V-Drives
I have a leak on the port side of my 20" x 20" hatch. I've already sealed it on the 3 main sides, but the side closest to the windshield is hard to seal, since the swing motion bar/hold/connector, whatever you want to call it, is making it impossible to seal that area. Is there any way to keep the hatch in place, but remove just the window itself, seal, then reattach the window? It has a single, small bar, silver in color that keeps in place. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Open the hatch, remove all screws that hold it in place. Remove hatch completely, Clean both the boat and hatch of all old caulking. Reseal. Hardest part is removing all old caulk.
 
Open the hatch, remove all screws that hold it in place. Remove hatch completely, Clean both the boat and hatch of all old caulking. Reseal. Hardest part is removing all old caulk.

I’m not trying to be rude - but did you read my post entirely?

The issue is not being able to reseal the top portion (as described in my original post). It’s not accessible after the window is reinstalled, yet still needs to be sealed. And that’s where my leak is.

To add, I sealed it last week fixing most of the leaks. But now, I can’t remove it. I can only remove the under hatch cosmetic square. I’ve hammered, pulled, pushed - won’t budge.
 
Sorry, undo the arm from the glass at the latch and the glass part will open all the way. That will give you access to all the screws. We just did all 3 on our boat, I had to use a putty knife and a small hammer to cut the old caulk between the hatch and the deck. I think that's what you are asking.
 
Sorry, undo the arm from the glass at the latch and the glass part will open all the way. That will give you access to all the screws. We just did all 3 on our boat, I had to use a putty knife and a small hammer to cut the old caulk between the hatch and the deck. I think that's what you are asking.

To add more info to help better understand, I've resealed this window twice in the past 5 years of owning this boat. The past times, I've easily removed the window entirely as one piece with the glass part attached. I'm trying to reseal a small spot I either missed, or it broke apart from the last time I resealed (3 weeks ago). I resealed the window so good that I actually can't remove the MAIN piece (top, with glass where it screws into the deck). I can remove the SECONDARY square insert that is removed from the cabin area. I need to remove the window itself, from the MAIN piece, and reseal without removing that entire part. I know this is hard to follow, but I'm physically unable to remove the window - yes, I super sealed that damn thing because I was so sick of the leaks ruining my cabin ceiling.

I may have to contact Taylor Made themselves and ask how to remove just the window so I can reseal behind/below the swing arm.
 
What timing, I just logged on. I think I'm with ya now. It's the glass leaking? Have you checked the tension on the handles themselves, they are a source for leaks that look like it the glass. I also replaced the seals in the handles, they are basically an O ring.
 
What timing, I just logged on. I think I'm with ya now. It's the glass leaking? Have you checked the tension on the handles themselves, they are a source for leaks that look like it the glass. I also replaced the seals in the handles, they are basically an O ring.

If you're laying down and your feet are at the bow, head at the aft, looking up - the leak is on the top left corner, and left side of the hatch. Considering that the handles are at the bow, and rain/water flows off the windshield down the deck and first hits the north side of the hatch. That's the only place I couldn't seal well on the deck side. When I put the hatch back in the last time I sealed it, I did seal it appropriately, however, I couldn't seal the outer rim by putting a solid line of sealant between where the deck and hatch meet, then running my finger along the sealant to even it out and spread it evenly. I could do this process on the other 3 sides of the hatch, but not where the window attaches.

Next time I'm at the boat, I will take a picture and point out where the leak(s) are. Since, I have dried them out by placing a heater in close proximity to tighten up the loose cabin ceiling material, and make it stop "hanging", and "stretching".. it also crinkles up when wet. I'm sure you know what I mean.

Also - I'm a self-taught sealant expert.. which means, before I owned this boat, I had never sealed anything in my life. The process in itself isn't difficult.. put sealant where you think stuff will leak, put it back in place, let dry, and don't do it while anything is wet. Easy enough.
 
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What did you use for sealant? Something so strong you can't remove it now?

I used basic gorilla glue brand sealant.. don't worry.. not actual gorilla glue. This is what I used:https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gorilla-...4491&wl11=online&wl12=438074572&wl13=&veh=sem

I took some pictures - see attached. I did order Taylor Made brand foam tape. It was suggested to use instead of sealant for the top part and to seal it to the non-skid deck from the top: http://www.taylormadeproducts.com/cgi-bin/catalog.pl?item_id=236

I think I can get it off, with some help. When I do, should I use this foam tape, or a different sealant? The issue is clearly water getting in from the top where the deck meets the hatch. I would love to be able to simply remove the window itself and leave the hatch sealed. Then reseal the one side.. but I'm beginning to think it may just be better to start over.
 
Reading through this was confusing... My first thought was that you should reseal the deck to hatch. But then I think you said you were sure it was the glass that was leaking? But now we're back to the deck to hatch? Assuming that's we're we've ended...

Sealing the hatch to the deck by simply squirting a little silicone into that gap (after the hatch is installed) is only a stop-gap measure. It's a short lived repair. The hatches are relatively easy to remove as they come out in one piece. You can gently pry them up a little bit at a time, working around the perimeter... you can push from the inside... and anything else you can think of. If you've only squirted a little sealant into that gap, the hatch should be very easy to remove once you slice that silicone... Sharp razor blade, plastic/metal putty knife, fishing line, etc, etc. Heck, it may pop free without even doing any of that.

Throw the foam tape away. I don't know who recommended that over good sealant - sounds like a strange recommendation - but the tape won't last as long.

I have zero experience with that Gorilla glue stuff, so I can't comment on how long it will last. I would only say that I wouldn't use it - strictly because I don't want to be the guinea pig. :) Chances are, it would be fine, though.
 
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I too am confused but I definitely wouldn't have used silicone. Now nothing will stick to the hatch or boat unless you remove all traces of it.
 
Reading through this was confusing... My first thought was that you should reseal the deck to hatch. But then I think you said you were sure it was the glass that was leaking? But now we're back to the deck to hatch? Assuming that's we're we've ended...

Sealing the hatch to the deck by simply squirting a little silicone into that gap (after the hatch is installed) is only a stop-gap measure. It's a short lived repair. The hatches are relatively easy to remove as they come out in one piece. You can gently pry them up a little bit at a time, working around the perimeter... you can push from the inside... and anything else you can think of. If you've only squirted a little sealant into that gap, the hatch should be very easy to remove once you slice that silicone... Sharp razor blade, plastic/metal putty knife, fishing line, etc, etc. Heck, it may pop free without even doing any of that.

Throw the foam tape away. I don't know who recommended that over good sealant - sounds like a strange recommendation - but the tape won't last as long.

I have zero experience with that Gorilla glue stuff, so I can't comment on how long it will last. I would only say that I wouldn't use it - strictly because I don't want to be the guinea pig. :) Chances are, it would be fine, though.

Alright - let's pretend I throw away the gorilla glue sealant, and get better sealant - what does everyone recommend?

These are going to be my steps when I tackle this tomorrow.

1) Remove hatch by all means necessary. I even stood on my bed and used my shoulders to press up on it.. didn't budge (may bring a friend to help pull)
2) Remove all sealant, patiently.
3) Although the foam tape wasn't recommended, I was told by Taylor Made that it is not the only thing to go down, and sealant should still be used. So, after sealing everything AGAIN.. I'm going to add the tape on top around it .. can't hurt.. right?
4) Place the window back in, wait a few days, hose test!

I'll pick up whatever sealant you guys recommend when I hear back. I only got the gorilla glue sealant because it was clear.. and I thought that would maybe look better in case I make a mess.
 
Most of questions answered above.

Gorilla might be just fine, but take note as to what the stressed out lady mentioned above about silicone. 3M4000UV is certainly good. Personally I prefer the BoatLife products - LifeCalk in this case. But either are great (and others, too).
 
I'd use butyl tape.

Agree - probably the best stuff for this application. Wasn't sure if I'd be met with "what the heck is that?" if I posted it! :) The only thing that might be a little bit challenging is making sure there's enough (thickness) to "squish", without using too much. Especially since there are only small screws being used to compress (weight can help) - unlike something that is thru-bolted. But yes, excellent stuff.
 
I have a 65' steel offshore lobster boat and that all i have in 1/2' lexan windows and never a leak. If they do happen to settle you can always tighten a bit more and thats all you need to do. silicone and the other sealants will always fail. Also the 390 EC i just bought is gonna have all the windows gone thru and butyl tape will be used where applicable..
 
I have some help coming with me today to rip this thing off, and reseal. I got the 3M UV 4000 Sealant, and I assume the butyl tape is similar to the taylor made tape I got? or perhaps the butyl tape is more like liquid(y) than the foam tape and may provide a better seal. Considering that Taylor Made recommended the tape over anything else (sealant recommended to accompany it), makes me believe that it has some purpose. I'm going to at least try it.. can't hurt right? Once I get it off, I'm going to take pics of where it possibly could be leaking and go from there.

Wish me luck :confused:
 
The butyl tape is a sealing tape, nothing liquid about it. use that and you won't need anything else. additionly once you use it you won't want to mess with caulking guns ever again
 
You mentioned you got the Taylor "foam" tape. Do some googling on butyl rubber tape - it is NOTHING like foam tape. Do what you want, but my recommendation to throw the foam tape away still stands.
 

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