Switching zincs to zinc for SS prop?

[JohnEGraham]

As i am working on cleaning up my Stainless steel props they seam to be in pretty bad shape after one year use with rusting, minor piting.
I installed an aluminum Prop shaft Anode with the adaptor kit last year with my new props. The Anode looked nearly brand new when removed. I am think of changing the aluminum to a "Zinc" zinc this year. I dock up here in Salt water. JG

 

[tbirdvet]

Not recommend to use zinc anodes in salt water! Never use Mg!! Stay with Al. Go to boatzincs.com for latest chart. Just be sure your system is working correctly to avoid galvanic action.

 

[JohnEGraham]

Thanks, Yes, I see. I did see one of the bonding wires broken. So I will replace that and stick with the AL and hope for the best. JG

 

[dingray]

I've always used zinc anodes on my bravo's and have zinc prop nut anodes which work great with a SS Prop. They normally need to be changed once a year and cleaned now and again depending how long she sits in the sea water for, but have never had any problems.

Saying that, your bonding straps or wires are the key.

 

[Great lakes pirate]

Why do you say no to zink anodes in salt water? I thought the rule was Magnesium for fresh water, Zink for salt, and Aluminum for mixed salt/fresh.

 

[Henry Boyd]

My understanding is that Mercruiser recommends aluminum anodes for Bravos used in bracksih and salt water. ALso make sure the flipping mercathode thingy is working and the wire on the bottom of the underwater unit is clean. If some meatball has bottom painted the wire, the mercathode will function aok when tested with a multifunction meter and not work at all.

Henry

 

[JohnEGraham]

I did order the Aluminum Anoide as per Boatzincs.com website.
Re: "your bonding straps or wires are the key." Does anyone know where to get these things. It Very small and only a couple of inches. It has a spade on the end where the wire / strap connected (and broke.)
The wire is shiny, alumimum looking color. Does it have to be an exact type of metal? It jumpb between two lower parts of the drive. I wonder if "Marine Max" in lindenhurst ( large sea ray dealer) would have it or would it be a Bravo-3 Mercrusier part? John E G.

 

[Henry Boyd]

Are you talking about the little braided wires on the exterior of the BIII? These provide continuity between the various moving parts like the gimbal ring and bell housing and drive itself. You should be able to buy them. You do want to fix them.

Henry

 

[dingray]

Yes, the braided grounding straps are a Mercruiser parts so should be easy enough to find in any Merc dealer. They can point you in the right direction.

Sounds like it could be a simple fix, but Henry has a good point to check

 

[JohnEGraham]

Hi, yes. I did remember to tape off the item when I painted the Drive last year. I also put a little vasoline on the wires before painting. another tip from somewere:thumbsup: John G

 

[JV II]

As i am working on cleaning up my Stainless steel props they seam to be in pretty bad shape after one year use with rusting, minor piting.
I installed an aluminum Prop shaft Anode with the adaptor kit last year with my new props. The Anode looked nearly brand new when removed. I am think of changing the aluminum to a "Zinc" zinc this year. I dock up here in Salt water. JG

If that was aluminum, it should dissolve in your hand after the season. Something is seriously wrong. Is is possible that you think it is aluminum and it is not? Something is very strange because your aluminum hub should be a mess if your props are as bad as you describe.