Swim platform ideas for older Sea Ray

Those pads would be $500 real quick for me...but they sure look nice.

On the vents, I mean they would be cut-outs that have some cut-out design like the Sea-Ray emblem inside it and they would pop out to a larger holes if the pressure was too high.Kinda like a high and low valve but the low valve would make the slots smaller.
 
I do not know for real if the vents are needed for blow holes or not, but the surveyor that I used was very concerned that the replacement swimplatforms had vents to prevent water hydraulics from causing damage and effect performance.
 
Shore.... interesting vent idea. Of course post a photo if you wind up going that route.

I finished up today, and it came out very nice. Very solid, with little flexing on the edges. I think I planned it right! Now I'm glad I wasn't able to get 1" Starboard. I would not have used the square aluminum tubing, and I think 1" Starboard, without some sort of framework, would flex too much. 3/4" without a frame would flex even more. Of course, if you don't mind standing on the edge of a diving board, it might be fun!

I elected to go with 1/4" backing plates, instead of fender washers, for the 4 bolts below the water line.

I am going to try and relocate the original swim ladder grab handle to the center of the existing deck. You definitely need something to help you up the ladder. I was also think of making two plug in handles, made of PVC. They would plug into the platform and go into the square tubes, for good rigidity.

I installed pull-up cleats at the corners for tying inflatables, and kayak while anchored. I wouldn't trust those for towing anything though.

As you can see, I now have a place to store my kayak. If you look close, there's a white PVC shaft, where the drain hole was. That is where the motor gets plugged in. I cut a Sevylor trolling motor in half, and motorized the kayak. Works great, with a 12V gel cell battery for power.

2/25 UPDATE: I relocated the original swim ladder grab handle, shown on the right in the photos. I mounted it center, just above the rub rail. Worked great. Even my wife, who's 5'2", was able to easily pull herself up.

Anyone know if white plugs are available to fill in the holes from the old ladder and grab handle?
 
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Ah yes the ladder issue.I forgot to mention this.You need to put a thick rubber piece between the ladder and the fame it rests on when extended.Changing that angle is all the difference in the world.If I had something strong enough to change that angle I would.It is simply to steep.
I too considered a grab rail but it's one more thing to grab toes and stuff.

How far back does the deck sit.It doesn't look much shorter than mine at all.

is it my eyes or are you running a 5-blade?
 
shore said:
How far back does the deck sit.It doesn't look much shorter than mine at all.

is it my eyes or are you running a 5-blade?
Click to expand...

The deck is exactly 28" from the boat rub rail. This makes the overall length exactly 26 feet (the maximum for my marina).

Yes, that is a High-Five 5-blade SS prop. I got that with the boat, as well as two 3-blade aluminum props. I've yet to put it in the water, so I'm anxious to see how well it does with that prop.

As far as level with the water line. I'm not sure what you mean, but it more or less follows the angle of the top of the existing platform. It's slightly off on one side, likely because the bottom of the existing platform it's bolted to was a bit off. Sea Ray wasn't worried about the bottom of the platform I guess, but when you bolt a platform on to it, the angle is more pronounced the farther out the back it goes. You wouldn't see it at all on a very short platform. I'll see how it does this summer, and make changes if needed after it comes out of the water, at the end of the season. Nothing is welded in, so adjustments are doable.

As far as the overall size, at first I thought I might have made it a little too large lengthwise. I was sitting on the existing platform tonight, and it doesn't appear too large at all. Also, like the rest of the boat, it will shrink when it hits the water!
 
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Great pictures and a really good job on the platform
 
Looks good - how did you seal up the bolt holes in the transom? Especially below the water line.
 
Thanks for the compliments guys.

For sealant I used 3M #5200. Seems to be the most recommended sealant for above and below the waterline. Takes a week to cure, so if you use it I wouldn't launch too soon.

BTW, the 1/2" "L" brackets that attach the square tubes to the transom were bent to match the angle of the transom. Even though they were only 1 1/2" or so wide it wasn't easy bending them. I had planned on using wider brackets but couldn't bend them, so I sized them to match the square tubing. One important tool in making this platform was a huge vise (probably over 80 lbs).
 
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I think mine is only 30" out.

I ask on the water line issue because when I put mine on it was level with the stock deck but when it got in the water it was tilted downward...then again, it is still easily adjustable.I'm thinking of moving it upward 2" on the end.

5200 is bulletproof for below waterline on boats and like Danny says, give it a week to cure and you'll never have an issue with it.They do make a fast cure 5200 but I have no experience with it.
 
Yes, I hear you the the tilt issue. My boat is on blocks, bow tilted up. I was thinking about taking it off the blocks, so that I could have used a level on the existing platform, and use a level installing the new platform. Didn't do that, so I had to use other methods of matching the angle of the platforms. I'll see how it is when it hits the water, and make adjustments for next season.

Is the downward tilt on your's an issue, or do you want to change it for appearance only?
 
This has really got me thinking into making my own platform...

I am thinking about using 1/2" marine plywood, and using the same 1/2" plywood to form a wide lip on the edge, 2x3's underneath for support and bracket mounting, hand lay fiberglass, and shoot it with gelcoat, add in some sand for the top to make it non-skid.... any thoughts? would this be heavier than the starboard?

sorry for the hijack...
 
H2ONUT said:
This has really got me thinking into making my own platform...

I am thinking about using 1/2" marine plywood, and using the same 1/2" plywood to form a wide lip on the edge, 2x3's underneath for support and bracket mounting, hand lay fiberglass, and shoot it with gelcoat, add in some sand for the top to make it non-skid.... any thoughts? would this be heavier than the starboard?

sorry for the hijack...
Click to expand...

Sure you can.
Starboard is ALOT heavier than plywood- more than double. Even with the added weight of the glass you'll still be lighter.

A far better choice would be a composite core like Coosa- no worries about rot like a wood core. It'll last the life of your boat. If you're gonna do it, do it right...

http://coosacomposites.com/
 
tobnpr - that looks like an interesting product. Looking at their web page it says this about the Nautical 24:

- Proven lightweight, high strength to weight ratio
- Density of 24 pounds per cubic foot
- Typically used as a low stress structural component
- 37% or more lighter than plywood

Seems like a good product - especially the fact it wont rot and is light weight. Do the specs above seem like it would be a good core for a platform? Would it need as much support as the Starboard? Any ideas on cost?
 
tobnpr said:
Sure you can.
Starboard is ALOT heavier than plywood- more than double. Even with the added weight of the glass you'll still be lighter.

A far better choice would be a composite core like Coosa- no worries about rot like a wood core. It'll last the life of your boat. If you're gonna do it, do it right...

http://coosacomposites.com/
Click to expand...

Here's this guy again.:smt043
 
H2ONUT said:
This has really got me thinking into making my own platform...

I am thinking about using 1/2" marine plywood, and using the same 1/2" plywood to form a wide lip on the edge, 2x3's underneath for support and bracket mounting, hand lay fiberglass, and shoot it with gelcoat, add in some sand for the top to make it non-skid.... any thoughts? would this be heavier than the starboard?

sorry for the hijack...
Click to expand...


Why not use aluminum?
I just hate the idea of any wood on a boat.Encapsulated or not.
 
Danny Troy said:
Yes, I hear you the the tilt issue. My boat is on blocks, bow tilted up. I was thinking about taking it off the blocks, so that I could have used a level on the existing platform, and use a level installing the new platform. Didn't do that, so I had to use other methods of matching the angle of the platforms. I'll see how it is when it hits the water, and make adjustments for next season.

Is the downward tilt on your's an issue, or do you want to change it for appearance only?
Click to expand...


Purely appearance and to pull the deck up a bit for more clearance when getting on and off plane.It has no negative effect when sitting.To be honest it drains water nicely.
 
That composite material looks really nice, and I bet it has a nice price tag also... for a newer boat, great idea, but a 20 year-old boat........

Yeah, the aluminum would be a better choice for adding the strength instead of the 2x3.

I think I now have a winter project!
 
shore said:
Purely appearance and to pull the deck up a bit for more clearance when getting on and off plane.It has no negative effect when sitting.To be honest it drains water nicely.
Click to expand...

Yes, if I had a choice I'd opt for an aft downward tilt, instead of the other way, which would direct water to the boat.

I think I read somewhere where a 1/4" tilt is recommended. Silly, since that's essentially level. I suppose any tilt will aid in drainage.
 
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