Swim platform ideas for older Sea Ray

OK, looks like my Starboard order finally arrived. I'll believe it when I see it tomorrow, when I pick it up. I'd say one good reason to buy a ready-made platform is the unavailability of Starboard, especially in the 1" size, and in colors other than bright white.

To give the 3/4" Starboard added support I bought four 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" square aluminum tubes, that will give great added support. They will extend from the transom out 36". This will be about 8" or so from the edge of the platform. The stainless braces will be attached to these tubes.

Question: in installing the inner tubes, I need to know the maximum throw of the outdrive, in each direction. Do I need to start the engine to engage the power steering, or can I just turn the wheel and still get maximum throw?
 
just turn the wheel
 
You have more room than you think....mine has plenty even with 6 poles.

yes, you can just man-handle the wheel to move it.

One thing though, on the braces.You need to have them run left to right over front to back.

It would be ideal to make a little frame out of the angle that is several inches short of the perimeter of the swimdeck.The have the frame work attached to the swimdeck and then the poles to the framework.That way the load gets dispersed evenly ON the metal.

In other words, let the frame work hold the deck flat and the poles hold the framework.
 
I hear you, but the aluminum is cut to 36" lengths already, so I'm committed to front to back. Each piece will have a 1" SS brace. I wasn't going to use the aluminum tubes at all, if I could have gotten the 1" SB. I really think it's going to be plenty sturdy, as the spacing will be less than 18" and the overall platform size is a lot smaller than your's. Plus, I won't be loading it up with a slew of babes, as you do :smt089
Basically just me and the wife and two 10 lb. dogs.

BTW, the front edge of each aluminum tube will be bolted to the existing platform. One bolt at the transom and another a few inches out.
 
Last edited:
It'll probably be fine but even if it isn't you always just put an solid section of angle left to right real easily.
 
Picked up the SB today and finally started the project.

Just thought I'd post a couple of photos of what I did today. Routed the edges with a 5/16" round-over router bit. The photo of the bottom of the platform shows where the aluminum tubes will be mounted.

Notice one of my dogs in the lower left, eagerly awaiting completion. This will be her perch, waiting for anything in the water floating by, so that she can jump in and attemp to eat it!

BTW, in the lower photo the SB is not yet routed.
 
Last edited:
So the aluminum bracing runs front to rear. Will the support poles attach to the aluminum? How will you attach everything to the transom? Are you mounting the ladder under the platform and in between the braces?
 
That looks great! I have been watching this thread because I have been thinking of doing the same thing. Are you going to router out in the middle for venting?
 
tdappleman said:
So the aluminum bracing runs front to rear. Will the support poles attach to the aluminum? How will you attach everything to the transom? Are you mounting the ladder under the platform and in between the braces?
Click to expand...

Yes, the stainless tubes will attach to the aluminum square tubes. The square tubes are a lot more solid than they look in the photo. The tubes will absolutely not allow any bending. There will be four "L" brackets that attach to the transom. Considering I have an existing platform that I can bolt to, it's almost unnecessary to go into the transom at all. Especially after putting eight 3/8" bolts up in the existing transom. I'm doing it, but it may not be necessary on a platform this size and weight.

The ladder will mount between the tubes, as you said. Should easily clear the outdrive when extended.

H20NUT....... If you decide to build it yourself I can tell you where to buy the parts, and exactly how much you will need. I overbought and wasted a little money when I ordered the transom brackets and the stainless tubes.

As far as venting, I will wait until it hits the water. My dogs have small paws, so any venting will have to allow for this. I'm thinking of making a pattern using 3/8" holes, but I will wait on that. I'm boating on a lake (I'm sure you're familiar with Candlewood) so it's not critical until I see how badly it needs the venting.

BTW, this platform comes out 28" from the rub rail, making the boat exactly 26 feet. Also happens to be the maximum for my marina!
 
Last edited:
I would like to come see it before you hit the water. I'll send ya a PM so we can meet up with a 6-pack and discuss...
 
Looks good - make sure you plan on some type of insulator between the aluminum and the stainless so avoid corrosion. Looking forward to more pictures.
 
H2ONUT said:
I would like to come see it before you hit the water. I'll send ya a PM so we can meet up with a 6-pack and discuss...
Click to expand...

Yes, I was thinking about just that. You're practically around the corner, although the boat is at my house in Bronxville, NY. Still not too far from you.
 
Danny, The venting will be most needed for the reaction from when you come off plane, your own wake will follow you and "rise" below the swim platform. This is what you should be most concerned with IMO.
 
I built a swim deck for my ski boat a 1984 Four Winns 190 horizon. I used the existing chrome supports for the factory swim platform on each end, purchased additional stainless steel supports from WM and used Trex composite purchased from local lumber yard. The entire project with new stainless hardware was less than $250.00 for materials which included a new 3 step telescopic ladder. I will get some pictures posted as soon as the snow stops coming down and I can uncover it.
 
As was mentioned in one of the other posts above- you need to allow for expansion/contraction in an application that large.

The material changes dimensionally 1/32" per foot, per 40 degrees of temp change. So roughly double that to 1/16" per foot (winter vs. summer temp) and over a 6' (72") length, it will change 3/8" in length across those temperature extremes.

My suggestion is to substantially overdrill the size of the mounting holes in the Starboard sheet, and use large finish washers and panhead screws- rather than countersinking to allow for some movement of the material. Trust me (from experience, here)- this stuff WILL expand and contract just like they say, and if you fail to allow for it you'll likely crack the material and end up starting over.

These HDPE plastics are great stuff, but have their limitations. Lack of structural strength and the expansion/contraction issue are the biggest drawbacks.

Good luck!
 
Took the thoughts right outta my head, tobnpr....

If that stuff expands 1/4" where the struts mount to it, the strut screws at one end or the other are going to pull out. Slotting the top deck and using bolts and washers would be much safer.
 
Yes guys, I had read about the expansion issue it the King literature. I'll keep an eye on it, but I don't think it will be an issue. I suppose I can slot the upper SS braces, to allow for expansion, but once tightened down I don't think it will allow for sliding in the slot.

Shore, have you had any issues with your platform as far as expansion?

I really can't imagine Starboard cracking due to the expansion. Of course the fiberglass it attaches to is another story.
 
There has to be some sort of reason this guy keeps mentioning this expansion thing.I'm sure like everything it expands and contracts but i think it's getting a bit exaggerated.

I put my deck together in 90 degree heat.This winter we had 20's down here.Record cold for Florida.We had 40 degree highs for a week.So and easy 70 degree change several times.

I just went to check on the boat for the 1st time since Oct and literally jumped up and down on the deck.Inspected all the screws and transom mounts.Nothing happened to the deck or screws.It is as solid as it ever was and my deck is a full sheet width and nearly as deep when accounting for under the factory swimdeck.

The only thing I noticed was some surface corrosion on the screw heads under the deck from constant condensation.Even though they are all SS it does happen.

on and even better note, my batteries didn't go dead!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,118
Messages
1,426,471
Members
61,034
Latest member
Lukerney
Back
Top