Surge coupler question

[JHornsby3]

I was doing some maint on the gravel in the driveway and had to move the boat. Pulled it out and had one wheel locked up. No worries, had my son get under the trailer and back off the shoes until it would move. And yes it was not dragging the last time I moved the boat for tires in the late fall last year.

So I put the "C" clamp on the coupler to lock out the brakes for backing up. Got the trailer where I wanted it and removed the clamp. Now the sliding part doesnt want to slide to actuate the brakes. It worked when I had to back up when pulling the trailer out and when I was trying to "rock" the one wheel loose.

Anybody have experience with these? I am thinking it can be broken down and the slide, rollers and other moving parts cleaned up and put into working condition. I have greased the rollers and the three zerks took grease but one did not. Wondering if it's just a matter of cleaning and lubing everything like it should be.

 

[Bill Curtis]

Looks like a Titan-Dyco unit. The "C" clamp may have crushed / distorted the parts enough that now they don't fit well. I may be wrong.

I had a Titan 10 on my last trailer when I bought it and it was all wonky.

Not too hard to tear down, clean up and lubricate, BUT they can be a bear to get everything aligned properly to re-assemble.

Figured out a little trick when re-assembling. Where the shock pistons align to the bolts / slide / spacers, I cut short pieces of wood dowel to align / hold everything together. Put it all together into frame and slid in the bolts, pushing the dowels out other side. worked like a champ. Don't over tighten the bolts, or you will crush it and have what you are experiencing now.

I am not a fan of any of the actuators (one on my trailer now is a is a UFP A-60). Next move is to electric over hydraulic.

Never needed to mechanically lock out, as I had / have disc brakes and the reversing bypass solenoid that is wired to backup lights on truck (5 wire electrical connector)

 

[JHornsby3]

No the C clamp can't distort the heavy tubing. But it isn't advised due to forgetting it's on there and not having any breaks.

Titan was bought out by Dexter back in 2015. They ran the stock until it was gone and show it but don't offer it. Or any of the wear parts.

I'm trying to get it apart and have spent way too long on it but found the manual for it. So I have the PDF and will try to include it on this post, if this system allows it.

Metal craft trailers out of Salt Lake is MIA. No phone calls or emails have been answered. They were to put free backing axels on with the Titan mdl 20 but didn't. This one doesn't have a lock out.

Now that I have the paperwork, I can just go out and beat it into submission to get it all apart. I have a feeling I was the first to grease it since manufactured. Those roller bolts should just slide out but act as if there is split rings inside. Maybe with the heat and some PB Blaster, I can get them to free up and come out. I know the system was working because I didn't have the clamp on and tried to back up. Even on the gravel that wasn't happening.

 

[Bill Curtis]

Have you tried these guys?
https://www.crofttrailer.com/surge-...ent-parts/dico-titan-model-20-actuator-parts/
https://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/Titan-Model-10-20_c_485.html

You could always swap out the master cyl with one for the disk with a reversing bypass solenoid, while it's apart. Or simply add the reversing bypass while it's apart.

 

[JHornsby3]

I have abandoned the whole damn thing. Its frozen on. I couldn't get it apart even after I got pissed and broke out the 8# hammer. The unit is welded and is part of the frame.

So the next time I have to hitch it up to the truck, I'll wrap a chain around the big pine behind the trailer to the trailer and give er hell. If it breaks, I'll scrap the damn thing and give away the boat.