Surge Brakes - Preferred Manufacturer?

[Hatter_in_MD]

Hi All,

I am currently in the process of getting my boat trailer inspected, and waiting for the other shoe to fall....:smt100. I am doing some homework before the shop tells me what I need to fix, if anything.

If I do end up having to replace various parts of the surge brake system, does anyone have a preference for the parts supplier/manufacturer, or places to stay clear of?

The trailer is a 1997 galvanized EZ-Loader, tandem axle with surge brakes only on the front axle (drum brakes). The acutator is an Attwood 6K model for drum brakes, and the wheels look like standard 10 inch hubs with 5 lug wheels. There is no "5th wire" on the harness for a solenoid, but I do have a manual lockout for backing. No spare or spare bracket, but I think I can work that one out on my own.

The trailer pulls fine, and I tried checking the brakes by jacking up a wheel and compressing the actuator. Brakes seem to be working ok, but I did not remove the wheel to see what kind of wear was on them.

I have done some automotive brake work and bearing/seal replacement and packing in the past, and feel pretty comfortable with the DIY part of the project. I am looking for opinions on parts makers and parts suppliers, preferably near Baltimore, MD though I buy alot of stuff off the internet.

Thanks in advance for any information you can provide!

 

[Spot]

Really it all depends on what kind of axels you have as far as what type of brake parts you need. On the West Coast we see lots of Dexter stuff so I try to stick with Dexter.

If you are changing you system to Disc brakes you have choices then. Stay away from Tie Down brand anything... Better stuff is Kodiak and Dico.

Not sure if this helps but it is a place to start. If I were you I would definatley pull a drum off and visually inspect your system and check bearings, failure is a horrible thing at 55.

 

[Hatter_in_MD]

Thanks for the reply! I just heard back from the inspection shop today, and the trailer passed with no problems at all!!! :grin:

This is a first for me, that is - taking a vehicle in for an inspection or a "free" safety check without spending a couple hundred dollars on repairs.

I did spend some time talking with the shop folks, and their procedure is to pull a drum from one side on the axle with brakes, and the opposite side drum from the axle with no brakes. (I think the state regs only call for one drum to be removed, but don't know for sure). Sounds like a good idea to me.

I saw in another thread somewhere that Tie-Down hardware might not be the best choice. I also saw a few posts about switching from drum to disk brakes. I think I will wait a while before making that move, or switching to electric brakes rather than hydraulic. I am gonna spend the "boat bucks" on other things like a GPS and maybe some other toys.

Thanks again for the reply, it is appreciated.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Sounds like you got everything under control. Just a couple side notes for you.

The "5th wire" is typically only used for disc brakes since they don't "free back". Most drum brakes will not operate at all when going in reverse - you may not need the physical lockout.

Do you only have brakes on one axle? The 190BR is still relatively small, so it's not a huge deal. But adding another set of brakes would be a good idea.

I'd still pull each drum and inspect. Also, if the trailer is new to you, check and re-pack the bearings. At least you'll now know when it's been done.

 

[Hatter_in_MD]

Sounds like you got everything under control. Just a couple side notes for you.

The "5th wire" is typically only used for disc brakes since they don't "free back". Most drum brakes will not operate at all when going in reverse - you may not need the physical lockout.

Do you only have brakes on one axle? The 190BR is still relatively small, so it's not a huge deal. But adding another set of brakes would be a good idea.

I'd still pull each drum and inspect. Also, if the trailer is new to you, check and re-pack the bearings. At least you'll now know when it's been done.

Good Advice!!!

I was planning to remove all of the wheels and remove the grease from the hub and bearings. I have access to one of the bearing packing presses (clean bearing is placed between a set of plates, tighten down, apply grease through the zerk fitting on top which pushes grease from the inside of the bearing to the outside) which I plan to use. The trailer already has bearing buddies, so I don't need to add those.

I will think about adding a second set of brakes, as funds allow. If I do go that route, I wonder if I will have to make any modifications to the acutator. (Larger reservoir, higher capacity master cylinder?) Four brakes take twice as much fluid movement as two, right? I will bet no changes are needed, other than to T the brake lines, and keep the line lengths past the T to about the same length, but it is worth checking.

Sorry for the book, but last point.... I was under the impression that the manual lockout was for use when backing the boat uphill (like into a driveway), where the force of pushing the boat and trailer back and up would cause the acutator to function. As the brakes begin to work, even more force is applied to the acutator, locking the brakes so you can't back up without skidding the tires.

Thanks for all your suggestions. I have seen alot of your posts on the board, and appreciate your helping all the newer and less technical boaters like myself. +2:thumbsup: (at the very least)

 

[Lazy Daze]

If I do go that route, I wonder if I will have to make any modifications to the acutator. (Larger reservoir, higher capacity master cylinder?) Four brakes take twice as much fluid movement as two, right? I will bet no changes are needed, other than to T the brake lines, and keep the line lengths past the T to about the same length, but it is worth checking.

Sorry for the book, but last point.... I was under the impression that the manual lockout was for use when backing the boat uphill (like into a driveway), where the force of pushing the boat and trailer back and up would cause the acutator to function. As the brakes begin to work, even more force is applied to the acutator, locking the brakes so you can't back up without skidding the tires.

Thanks for all your suggestions. I have seen alot of your posts on the board, and appreciate your helping all the newer and less technical boaters like myself. +2:thumbsup: (at the very least)

Hey, thanks for the kudos! :grin:

You are correct, you don't need to change the MC. You would only need to change it if you converted to discs - higher pressure.

Yes, you are correct, in theory, about the operation of the brakes in reverse going up a hill. But, most drum brakes are "free backing" and won't engage when the wheel is turning in reverse. You'll know if they are or are not when you try it:smt001. Disc brakes will grab in reverse - hence the lockout solenoid.

You probably know this, but be careful with the Bearing Buddies when adding grease. Check them as often as you want (looking at the spring for compression - or seeing if the plate "rocks" slightly when you push it), but you should not need to add any grease - maybe once a season.

You got a good boat there - my dad has a 190, too.