Sundancer Track Door Problems - Help!

jaywoodz

Member
Nov 12, 2012
522
Richmond, Virginia
Boat Info
1999 Sea Ray 310 Sundancer
Engines
Twin 350 MAG MPI Horizon w/V-Drives
My 99 310DA had issues with the plastic track at the top and was broken off in several parts. The track rollers were damaged as well, missing the wheels completely and just sliding on the plastic. After doing a lot of research and realizing that Sea Ray doesn't carry this part anymore, I noticed on http://www.searay-parts.com they had a track replacement set located here: http://www.searay-parts.com/Door-Track-s/783.htm. I ordered the top 2 tracks, with track rollers to go with it. I didn't do the entire set, as that cost $350.00. I only spent about $150 doing it with just the top.

After receiving everything, I cut and install the top piece with no issues, other than having to drill holes. Once the holes were drilled, and everything was mounted, this thing is TIGHT.. and when I mean tight, it takes everything I have to shut the door, and smooth isn't even in its vocabulary. I have to pull the bottom door first under the top door, then one that's all the way shut (half way to the stopper), then I can finally push the top door shut. That's not easy at all! It's a serious issue with going in and out of the boat, and I've messed with it for about 5-6 hours over the past 2 weeks and the frustration level is THROUGH the roof. I have contacted http://www.searay-parts.com and they only suggested that I get the rest of the kit to support the bottom.

Now, the bottom. I didn't touch the bottom at all except for cleaning it out. But since it's slightly loose, it catches when the top is open. This is very hard to explain and maybe I can send a video to show you guys what I'm talking about, but it's a nightmare trying to close the door. I know the top frames are aluminum type, and don't bend or move easily since it's not plastic. Before with the broken plastic opened/closed MUCH easier than what I have installed now. Granted it doesn't fall off the track, but it's still a PITA.

My next step is to order the bottom tracks and go from there.. or hire the marina mechanic to look at it. Has anyone ordered these from sea ray parts or done any type of fabrication to get these to work .. SMOOTHLY? Thanks...
 
I had a 2001 310 Sundancer which had door issues as well - the trucks fell apart. I bought the tracks and trucks from a different supplier:
http://www.boatoutfitters.com/boat-sliding-door-hardware.html

The one modification I had to make was the top of the original trucks were angled to match the angle of the door. Without this angle, the truck would be twisted in the track which some caused binding although not as severe as you are experiencing. I used a bench sander to form this angle on the new trucks.
 
I had a 2001 310 Sundancer which had door issues as well - the trucks fell apart. I bought the tracks and trucks from a different supplier:
http://www.boatoutfitters.com/boat-sliding-door-hardware.html

The one modification I had to make was the top of the original trucks were angled to match the angle of the door. Without this angle, the truck would be twisted in the track which some caused binding although not as severe as you are experiencing. I used a bench sander to form this angle on the new trucks.

Did you also replace the plastic rails? or just the trucks/rollers?
 
Jaywoodz,

I replaced my whole door tracksystem, rails and trucks, on my boat. I got my parts (all plastic) from teakisle.com. I dealt with Jim Cox there who was very helpful. I believe that I posted an album of the process on my profile page here. I think that I spent around $200 for everything. I replaced it all because I wasn't sure what was broken. Although my rails turned out to be fine, I replaced them anyway. I did have to make some adjustments as well to get it to move freely and also had to move the door latch up a little so it would mate properly with the handle.
 
Jaywoodz,

I replaced my whole door tracksystem, rails and trucks, on my boat. I got my parts (all plastic) from teakisle.com. I dealt with Jim Cox there who was very helpful. I believe that I posted an album of the process on my profile page here. I think that I spent around $200 for everything. I replaced it all because I wasn't sure what was broken. Although my rails turned out to be fine, I replaced them anyway. I did have to make some adjustments as well to get it to move freely and also had to move the door latch up a little so it would mate properly with the handle.

From what I hear, plastic seems to be the way to go as opposed to aluminum. These are very TIGHT and don't give in any way, shape, or form. I went ahead and ordered all the replacement pieces for the bottom as well, so hopefully that will fix my problem since the bottom is worn out and original parts from 1999. I will keep posting on here until the project is completed.
 
From what I hear, plastic seems to be the way to go as opposed to aluminum. These are very TIGHT and don't give in any way, shape, or form. I went ahead and ordered all the replacement pieces for the bottom as well, so hopefully that will fix my problem since the bottom is worn out and original parts from 1999. I will keep posting on here until the project is completed.
 
Just read how you fix the door on 1999 SD . My 1991 has the problem and have been looking
Into a fix.
My door has two flex panels on for opening and two small upper ploy plates above.
One runs about 20inchs across and two small 8inch side rails. Both are made out Plastic.

Has any one found Replacement Parts?

Hypo
 

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