pyro
Active Member
- Dec 4, 2018
- 287
- Boat Info
- 2008 Sundancer 290
- Engines
- Twin 5.0L MPI Bravo III
Kohler 5ecd
I’ve been wanting to show off my stereo upgrade/install on a 2008 Sundancer 290 in case it helps other or gives ideas. The goal for the project [for now] was to continue using the Clarion CMD4 head unit but replace the cockpit and cabin speakers, upgrade amps, add bluetooth to aux in, and add a subwoofer.
First things first we had to add an amp. And to add an amp, we need power and lots of it. So I ran a new 4 AWG power cable to a distribution point near the battery. Unfortunately there was not a lot of room to add 4 AWG cables, specifically not terminals could accommodate another 4 AWG lug, so I had to add a distribution terminal and have a custom jumper made.
I say custom only because I needed a company with a hydraulic crimper to crimp the lugs onto the 4 AWG cable, and I needed the shortest length possible in a U shape with the lugs facing the correct direction. www.batterycablesusa.com was able to make sure the cable met my requirements. All the battery cable was from them, which is a very nice high quality flexible marine cable.
I ran the 4 AWG through the bulkhead where multiple tubes of caulk must of have been used to fill in the approx 3” x 6” feedthrough. Since all the boat harness cables where at the bottom, I was able to drill a new 1” hole through the caulk. I was VERY careful to make sure to not knick one the boat harness cables. Here you can see the jumper cables from the emergency start solenoid to the new distribution terminal screw. I was also able to get a 4 AWG to the new fuse block.
My amplifier placement for the Sundancer 290 was a bit challenging but completely out of the way. I hid it behind the access panel in the midberth under the TV. It was challenging to install since drilling and screwing it in required the use of a 90 degree drill attachment.
I mounted the amp against a 3/4” backer board which was epoxied to the outside fiberglass hull. Once the cover is placed on top, you will never know anything’s back there.
I ran all new speaker wires, RCA cables to the head unit. I even created a new wiring harness that plugged into the connector of the searay harness (that used to connect to the old mini amplifier ). That way, if needed, I could power the factory wiring, allowing me to power the front two cockpit speakers that I disconnected (and didn’t upgrade). This harness also contained the remote +12V needed to power on the amp. I also ran a NMEA2000 cable from the engine compartment to the stereo for future head upgrade.
Next I upgraded the side firing radar arch speakers with JL MX770s which fit perfectly. I Dynamat’d the inside of the radar arch as much as possible. Because Searay cut out a gigantic access hole in the fiberglass and then just installed the factor speakers with a small board that acted as a bracket, I tried to create an infinite baffle so the speaker was not in free air. This took a lot of time and required multiple pieces to be able to install. To be honest, I’m not sure how worthwhile this step was. I ended up not upgrading and therefore powering the front two speakers in the cockpit. They are a terrible location. The port side is always blocked by the open cabin door. And starboard is mostly blocked by person at the helm and helm seat itself.
Finally I went to install the sub. I have been debating where to install the sub. Ideally I want to install under the helm seat or on the port side seat. However, I am picky and do NOT want an infinite baffle sub. I absolutely require a sealed sub. Trying to find space for a sealed sub (and figuring out how to actually seal the enclosure) is extremely difficult. I also am dead set on a 10” sub, which just barely fits. It makes the install somewhat risky because any mistake will be highly visible.
Next I decided to try to make a removable sealed sub under the rear seat. I’ve done some fiberglassing, but this was my chance to experiment with gelcoat a little more. There is only about 7.5” height clearance here and a sub enclosure required somewhere around 0.8 cu ft. I spent weeks measuring, dry fitting, shaving it down, fiberglassing, sanding, repeating. In fact the first rough frame that was measured, was completely scrapped after dry fitting it. It needed to be a lot smaller, especially for installation which required inserting it from the storage locker at the stern.
Finally starting to fiberglass it.
Not so great looking, but it fit. Multiple passes with a faring compound and finally gelcoating. I originally tried to spray gelcoat with a pneumatic gun, and used the wrong catalyst ratio, which was a disaster. Finally ended up stripping that off entirely, and painting which worked much much better. After multiple sanding and buffing steps, it actually came out absolutely beautiful. It’s hard to see in the picture, but the sheen mirrors the fiberglass on the boat. There a couple points where I burned through the gelcoat, but overall, I wouldn’t mind having this directly visible in the cockpit.
Finally installed it in the rear seat. Clearances maneuvering it in are < 1/8”. It’s like a puzzle, it can only go in one way, with specific angles and rotations.
First things first we had to add an amp. And to add an amp, we need power and lots of it. So I ran a new 4 AWG power cable to a distribution point near the battery. Unfortunately there was not a lot of room to add 4 AWG cables, specifically not terminals could accommodate another 4 AWG lug, so I had to add a distribution terminal and have a custom jumper made.
I say custom only because I needed a company with a hydraulic crimper to crimp the lugs onto the 4 AWG cable, and I needed the shortest length possible in a U shape with the lugs facing the correct direction. www.batterycablesusa.com was able to make sure the cable met my requirements. All the battery cable was from them, which is a very nice high quality flexible marine cable.
I ran the 4 AWG through the bulkhead where multiple tubes of caulk must of have been used to fill in the approx 3” x 6” feedthrough. Since all the boat harness cables where at the bottom, I was able to drill a new 1” hole through the caulk. I was VERY careful to make sure to not knick one the boat harness cables. Here you can see the jumper cables from the emergency start solenoid to the new distribution terminal screw. I was also able to get a 4 AWG to the new fuse block.
My amplifier placement for the Sundancer 290 was a bit challenging but completely out of the way. I hid it behind the access panel in the midberth under the TV. It was challenging to install since drilling and screwing it in required the use of a 90 degree drill attachment.
I mounted the amp against a 3/4” backer board which was epoxied to the outside fiberglass hull. Once the cover is placed on top, you will never know anything’s back there.
I ran all new speaker wires, RCA cables to the head unit. I even created a new wiring harness that plugged into the connector of the searay harness (that used to connect to the old mini amplifier ). That way, if needed, I could power the factory wiring, allowing me to power the front two cockpit speakers that I disconnected (and didn’t upgrade). This harness also contained the remote +12V needed to power on the amp. I also ran a NMEA2000 cable from the engine compartment to the stereo for future head upgrade.
Next I upgraded the side firing radar arch speakers with JL MX770s which fit perfectly. I Dynamat’d the inside of the radar arch as much as possible. Because Searay cut out a gigantic access hole in the fiberglass and then just installed the factor speakers with a small board that acted as a bracket, I tried to create an infinite baffle so the speaker was not in free air. This took a lot of time and required multiple pieces to be able to install. To be honest, I’m not sure how worthwhile this step was. I ended up not upgrading and therefore powering the front two speakers in the cockpit. They are a terrible location. The port side is always blocked by the open cabin door. And starboard is mostly blocked by person at the helm and helm seat itself.
Finally I went to install the sub. I have been debating where to install the sub. Ideally I want to install under the helm seat or on the port side seat. However, I am picky and do NOT want an infinite baffle sub. I absolutely require a sealed sub. Trying to find space for a sealed sub (and figuring out how to actually seal the enclosure) is extremely difficult. I also am dead set on a 10” sub, which just barely fits. It makes the install somewhat risky because any mistake will be highly visible.
Next I decided to try to make a removable sealed sub under the rear seat. I’ve done some fiberglassing, but this was my chance to experiment with gelcoat a little more. There is only about 7.5” height clearance here and a sub enclosure required somewhere around 0.8 cu ft. I spent weeks measuring, dry fitting, shaving it down, fiberglassing, sanding, repeating. In fact the first rough frame that was measured, was completely scrapped after dry fitting it. It needed to be a lot smaller, especially for installation which required inserting it from the storage locker at the stern.
Finally starting to fiberglass it.
Not so great looking, but it fit. Multiple passes with a faring compound and finally gelcoating. I originally tried to spray gelcoat with a pneumatic gun, and used the wrong catalyst ratio, which was a disaster. Finally ended up stripping that off entirely, and painting which worked much much better. After multiple sanding and buffing steps, it actually came out absolutely beautiful. It’s hard to see in the picture, but the sheen mirrors the fiberglass on the boat. There a couple points where I burned through the gelcoat, but overall, I wouldn’t mind having this directly visible in the cockpit.
Finally installed it in the rear seat. Clearances maneuvering it in are < 1/8”. It’s like a puzzle, it can only go in one way, with specific angles and rotations.
