Stretching the Gallon on the Road

You mean the part where you pitch pole backwards and roll end-to-end?

I could imagine that being quite a rush indeed!

One of the guys did a pretty bad roll one time and after we ran over to help him out we asked him what it was like. He replied that he didn't know because he didn't remember a thing, LOL.
 
Tire overinflation is probably the biggest bang for the buck. Especially considering that air is free, except in Pennsylvania, where it's a quarter or two.

Now if you understand how EFI works and why it does what it does, you can get about a 20 to 25% increase with just some wire, a resistor, and a dry cell. But it will turn on your check engine light and also increase combustion chamber temperatures.

Best regards,
Frank C
 
Come on Frank, you can't leave it at that! It's cruel and punnishable by lashings. Now I'll have to google it because I have an inquireing mind.
 
I'll bet he's referring to EFIEs. Google "efie" and you'll learn a lot. It's basically simple electronics designed to fool the O2 sensors in your EFI computer system to lean out the fuel/air ratio. The ideal standard ratio is about fifteen to one - actually 14.7/1 if you're picky - and when your O2 sensors detect excess air in that ratio they will send a signal to your computer telling it to enrichen your mix by dumping more gasoline into your intake.

This is one of the hurdles that an HHO system must deal with, since by "burning" water through electrolysis and then routing the hydrogen into the intake to significantly raise your power and mileage, the O2 sensors of a modern EFI will detect the excess oxy in the hydro mix and negate the potential mpg increase by pouring more gasoline in to be burned to compensate for the false lean condition the sensors think is occurring.

The problem with messing around with EFIEs and leaning out a non-modified engine is that leaning out your fuel/air ratio will indeed raise cylinder head temps and cause its own set of problems, especially in long term effects on the engine. It really needs to be done as part of a more complete high-mileage modification like a hybrid system such as HHO.

At least I *think* that may be what Frank's getting at, but he's too humble to explain such complicated stuff to rednecks like us. :grin:
 
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I've been really working hard at getting as good of gas mileage as possible lately. Without making any mods to my truck, I've been changing my driving habits to increase my gas mileage significantly. If I didn't work at it at all, I'd get about 15 mpg. For the last few years, I've been getting around 16. Lately, it's been closer to 18. I'm trying to get 18.5 this week.

I've been filling up the tank every time which doesn't help due to weight. I get about 1/2 - 1 mpg better at the bottom of the tank than the top. The key to the extended mileage is coasting up to stop signs and red lights in place of cruising up close and then using the brakes. Reasonable acceleration also helps. I don't jam up traffic in attempt to stretch the numbers, though.

I have actually put the truck in neutral and shut the engine off when approaching an intersection with notoriously long waits. I coast up and stop, then start the truck just before it's time to proceed. This can be dangerous (blah blah blah). This week, I've started turning the A/C off when I accelerate. I notice that the A/C can cost up to 2 MPG in the city.

My driving takes me through some 25 mph neighborhoods, some 35 mph connecting streets, and lots of 45 mph zones. I drive 15 miles each way to/from work. There are 12 traffic lights or so. It's like city driving, but not the worst case type of city driving. My mileage actually decreases on the highway due to increased wind resistance.

The biggest drag on fuel economy is using the brakes - If you use your on-board computer, you can see that mileage goes waaayyy down when accelerating, even when accelerating mildly (2 mpg to start, then 3, 4, 5, 6...) Cruising, I get about 22 - 24 mpg at speeds between 25 and about 52. It goes down as you speed up beyond that. Coasting, mileage goes up to the 80's from high speeds or 40's from moderate speeds. If you accelerate from a stop and then brake to the next stop, you spent time at 2 mpg but very little at 60 or 80 mpg. It's almost as efficient to accelerate and then coast as it is to just cruise. If you shut the engine down, it may actually be better than straight cruising, but the computer doesn't register that. It's not uncommon for me to coast 1/4 mile with the engine off when the light ahead is red - the trip computer doesn't register any additional mileage, even with the key back on to "run." That being said, actual gas mileage goes up, the computer just can't track it.

When I put gas in the truck, I keep track of how much fuel it took compared to how much the computer indicates. The computer is always off by about a gallon, or 5%. I take that into account.

I get over 450 miles per tank. With zero traffic, it costs me an extra 2 minutes to get to work (24 vs 22). With traffic, it's much harder to get great mileage, but you can still do it and then it doesn't cost any time. The best thing to do is leave enough room behind the car ahead so that you don't have to brake much when he slows to turn off.

If I'm turning ahead, I'll try to slow so that I only have to apply the brakes to lose the last 10 mph or so. If I'm going to have to stop (stop sign...), I'll coast from 45 (or 48, 50) to at least 35 or below. If the speed limit is 35, I'll try to coast to 25 before I need to brake normally. Coasting below 25 mph in gear will take you for miles. I don't do that to the folks behind me.

Timing traffic lights is probably the best aid to great gas mileage. I know the habits of each light. I check for left-turn arrows, and oncoming traffic waiting to turn left. The light at the Wal-Mart stops the 45 mph thoroghfare traffic immediately when someone on the side street is going to/from the F'n Wal Mart - pisses me off. If you can keep the 2 1/2 ton truck moving along, the gas mileage goes way up. When accelerating from a dead stop, I try to let the engine start the truck moving in idle prior to applying the gas - this helps lessen the gas consumed at stops.

My truck's curb weight is a little over 5,000 lbs. and I get around 18 mpg and have 335 hp and/or almost 400 ft/lbs of torque when I need it - altogether, not too bad. How about you guys?
Congrats on putting so much thought and energy to save $2.32 per tank :p

Ill continue driving like I stole it :grin:
 

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