Sticking RPM gauges

[JV II]

I have a friend with a 2003 410 Sundancer with 3126 CATs. His RPM gauges stick. With the boat off at the slip, he reads like 1,200 - 1,500 RPM. The starboard side used to be reliable and he would go by that and his sync gauge to match RPM, while the port gauge always read less. It's almost like they need to be oiled. Is this something that fails after about 13 years and needs full replacement or is it a connector problem?

 

[carterchapman]

He needs to replace the original teleflex tachs with Aetna digital tachs. Plug and play.

http://www.aetnaengineering.com/8905-LCD-tachometer.asp

Here's a good thread:

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/40688-Aetna-Engineering-Digital-Tachs?highlight=aetna

 

[Nick 55]

Dad's 98 450DA has the same gauges I believe. One was replaced by the previous owner but the starboard one acts the same way. I've disassembled them trying to get it to work, but to no avail. I agree with Carter above. Aetna gauges are the way to go.

 

[HUMPH]

The Aetna tachs are the way to go but in the mean time have him remove the dash screws to access the rear of the tachs then, noting where the adjustment screw is set to, turn it side to side and back to the original setting when complete. This should help.

 

[JV II]

We'll remove the dash, clean contacts, and look for adjustment screws and switches. He was able to order OEM replacements from the dealer for $175 each. If the contact cleaning, etc work, he can return them. I think the gauges are shot, because we've seen them acting erratic, not bouncing, but sticking. If it were a contact, I'd think the gauges would return to zero or bounce around.

 

[JMS23]

He needs to replace the original teleflex tachs with Aetna digital tachs. Plug and play.

http://www.aetnaengineering.com/8905-LCD-tachometer.asp

Here's a good thread:

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/40688-Aetna-Engineering-Digital-Tachs?highlight=aetna

I need some advice. i replaced my Tachs with the AETNA digitals on 41 dancer with 3126 cats. same wiring. ignition, ground and signal. but both tachs read 9999. any thoughts?

 

[fwebster]

I suspect the dip switches inside the Aetna tach case are not set correctly. If you need help, you can call aetna at 800-776-7962, ask for Jeramiah.

 

[Bop]

The Aetna tachs are the way to go but in the mean time have him remove the dash screws to access the rear of the tachs then, noting where the adjustment screw is set to, turn it side to side and back to the original setting when complete. This should help.

This fixed my floating tach issues last year.

 

[JMS23]

you were correct. i set the DIP to the 126 PPR setting and the TACHS work perfectly.

 

[endless seas]

Amazing!

 

[dtfeld]

By plug and play, you mean I can use the existing magnetic pickup?
Also will the sync gauge work? I think this may be my next project. They are driving me nuts.

I was on the Aetna site last night, and I was trying to decide if I need to get the senders to attach to the Glendinning synchronizer.

I ordered flex shafts for the Glendinning synchronizer as niether was solidly connected to the vibration damper.

Up til now, my ear has been a great synchronizer, but it’s not ideal.

 

[fwebster]

No, you need to use the sender that is on the boat now. They are "tooth counters" mounted on the bell housing so they see the ring gear teeth as they pass under the counter. Don't mess with it; just use the signal wire on your OEM tachs. Aetna handles the varying number of teeth on variouis engines with dip switches inside the tah housing which you will set when you install and set up the tachs.

Aetna installs on a Sea Ray are truly plug and play. Read the installation instructions on the Aetna site and it all becomes clear.

Most larger boats were equipped with synchronizers which renders the SR sync. gauge useless and more trouble than it is worth. Once you install the digital tachs, you can sync the engines to within 1 RPM using the tachs (smooth water, headed straight,no turns). If I were installing Aetna tachs, I would remove the sync. gauge and toss it in the trash.

One other point is that the Aetnas are smaller that the OEM Teleflex tachs. I had a new dash panel made for the correct size gauge cut out for the Aetnas. If you do the same, you can eliminate the sync gauge very easily.

 

[JMS23]

By plug and play, you mean I can use the existing magnetic pickup?
Also will the sync gauge work? I think this may be my next project. They are driving me nuts.

I was on the Aetna site last night, and I was trying to decide if I need to get the senders to attach to the Glendinning synchronizer.

I ordered flex shafts for the Glendinning synchronizer as niether was solidly connected to the vibration damper.

Up til now, my ear has been a great synchronizer, but it’s not ideal.

I just replaced my Tachs with the AETNA's, you do not need anything but the tachs. you have 3 wires attached to the existing Tachs and the same 3 wires will attach to the AETNA's. the TACHs are shipped with a default DIP switch setting. THIS MUST BE CHANGED TO PPR 126 DIP setting for the 3126 CATS.. . instructions come with the TACHs... it is not difficult. the synchronizer works perfectly... good luck.

 

[Blueone]

My original RPM Tachs have the hour meter... Are you guys replacing yours with Aetna with the hour meter?.... or are you doing something else?

 

[fwebster]

Aetna cannot reset their hour meters to match the ones on the boat.

I have saved 2 sets of Sea Ray yachts to prove actual engine hours to the next owner, who ever and when if ever that may be.

As a practical matter, I have kept my
Maintenance record by the hours shown on the tach on the boat

 

[dtfeld]

If anyone is interested... here are the diagnostics to the tachometers and sync guages. They can be worked on, but they sure are a PITA! I'd love to get these working as I like the analog gauge look, but these are driving me nuts, so Aetna may be due an order lol.