Starlink

You bring up a good question. When you cut the motors out, your also removing the stem that also has the cable coupler in it for the existing cabling. That Starlink cable coupler is what your replacing. When the motors are removed you will have to cut that cable and connect the long boat feed cable back to it. That's where the coupler is used. Now the question is what cable pin-out to use? You can use pretty much any one you like as long as each wire matches up with the same exact wire. That said, you might as well use one of the standard pin-outs used for for networking and since you might need to practice with Starlink XSwapped pinout. That way the Starlink setup will match what I posted here. Follow that reference and you should be fine.

 

What your calling the 568B is a standard wired network cable end. The white wire that you cut inside of dishy gets wired as XSwapped. The Grey wire coming out of the boat gets wired as XSwapped and those two connections go into the water tight connector that stays inside the new mount. Then follow the reference link I posted.

 

If you don't have a good set of crimper's and some ends, this is what you need.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YC9TQKH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J8R1PL8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Grant, follow this after you mount the dish and re-join the cable.

 

I know disabling the motor for flat mount is required however can you choose to leave motor function intact if you convert to dc power and choose to use the stock pedestal?

 

The DC power is what the array is using now, you are just converting it with their router. But yes you can, but why would you want too? Having the array lay flat is the optimal position for using it on the boat and is how the new mobility array is set up. If your at anchor or mooring you will need it to be flat.

I still have mine on a pedestal mount on the arch, but the motors are disabled and the array lies flat. That mod is very simple to do and only takes ~10 min to complete.

 

Not planning to permanently mount mine so I will need to to be able to go into stow mode. If you disable the motor can it still be manually forced into stow mode?

 

No it will be locked into that position. I just don't see how you can use it like that on the boat if not in a marina.

 

Used it like that all of last season on the hook without issue.

 

So my plan is to modify the below starlink ethernet adapter to avoid having to cut my existing $150 starlink cable. I'll cut and re-terminate the adapter to accept the poe injector. This will allow me flexibility to switch back to the starlink router if i choose to go back to AC power. Adapter will be permanently mounted somewhere on my bridge. Anyone else try this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B7D5MT93/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Probably easier to buy 75' cable and cut. it's only $64. But if you want to try the adapter it's $25 on the SL site.

Cable: https://shop.starlink.com/products/us-consumer-75-replacement-cable-gen2

Doing it your way will require you to put the router into bypass mode which essentially makes it a power supply only. You would need to do a reset to get the router back and usable. Not sure what all that means exactly as I put it into bypass mode on my 2nd day with it.

 

Grant @ocgrant Great job! Looks fantastic.

Great idea doing it in pieces. That way you know where it failed.

 

Any recommendations on a wireless router to replace StarLink router after the delete?

 

Looks great!! Nice job!

One trick I learned for doing caulk or 3M 4200/5200 is to get a roll of paper towels, and a trash/can/bag and when wiping away the excess, only use the paper towel once, and throw it away. Keeps the goop off you and everything else.