Starboard and Seaboard Cutting

Looks good :thumbsup:

I just saw the end of this ,project looks good .I use a medium wood blade in the jigsaw and it is variable speed with orbital, so i slow down a bit and turn the orbital up all the way.It doesnt melt this way.I would like to try it with a scroll saw with variable speed sometime to see if it handles any better on the radius cuts.My next project will need a radial arm saw,chop saw and table saw .And a drill press.new dash panel coming up!
I think a band saw is the way to go but Can't Justify the tool! The new cordless Jig Saw and battery and Bits were about $125. and I can use it at the Marina!!! Not that I want to cut any holes in the Biatch!!!!
 
Marshall,

Take a look at my setup and it might help you with your installation. I guess, the key here is to find the correct distance between the ramps.

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Dinghy Davits – Dom’s Ramps and Alex’s Mounts
 
Shoot. I missed this yesterday or I would have suggested using a coarse tooth blade in the jig saw instead of a fine one. The fine one needs more strokes to remove the same amount of material, so people tend to run the saw faster and push harder. This makes heat, which causes the "dust" to melt back into the kerf behind the blade.

Jig saws and band saws are mostly "rough cut" machines. I rarely use them to make my final cuts. The best way to end up with a professional looking edge with the least potential for error is to use a router and a pattern bit to clean up the rough cuts made on a bandsaw or with a jig saw.

Start off by making your first version of the parts on some test material. Starboard is expensive. MDF or plywood is dirt cheap. You can make 4 or 5 test pieces to get the shape correct without breaking the bank. Both MDF and plywood will also sand much easier than any plastic material of equal thickness. When you have the test part(s) shaped correctly and the edges sanded smooth, use them to "pattern route" the actual parts out of Starboard.

  1. Place the pattern on your Starboard and trace around the outline of the part to make your cut lines.
  2. Use the jig saw, band saw, or a hand saw to rough cut the shape of the part staying just about 1/8" outside of the lines as you cut. Do not wander inside of the line. Just get the shape close.
  3. Take your MDF or plywood pattern and attach it to the top of the Starboard using screws (preferably where there will be a hole in the finished product). Countersink the screw heads. Your router will ride on top of the pattern, and will need to be able to slide over the screws without them snagging or scratching its base.
  4. Put the pattern bit in the router, set the router on top of the pattern with the bit hanging over the edge. Adjust the depth of cut so that the roller bearing lines up with the edge of the MDF and the cutters go all the way through the Starboard. If you use 1/2" MDF for the pattern and are cutting 3/4" Starboard, use a 1" long pattern bit and set it so that the bottom of the cutter is about 1/16" below the bottom of the Starboard.
  5. Put the assembly on some scrap material, or clamp it to a workbench with a portion hanging over the edge.
  6. Use the router to go around the edge. The bearing will follow the MDF and the "extra" material that you left when you made the rough cut will be removed. If you left more than 1/8" of extra material outside the lines in any areas when you rough cut the part, take a few light passes with the router until the bearing contacts the MDF. When routing, always work from left to right, and NEVER loosen your grip on the router while the bit is spinning, even after you have turned it off. Routers are easy to handle, but they will take off on you in a hurry if you cut too deep and the cutter snags. If you run right to left, be extra careful as the rotation of the bit will tend to pull the tool along. This is called "climb cutting", and beginners should avoid doing it.
When you remove the pattern, you will have a perfectly finished part. No sanding required. Save the pattern so that you can make replacements, make additional sets, or send it to other CSR members so they can make their own without reinventing the wheel. Hmmm... we need a "dinghy bottom profile" library so that people can share the ones that work well for each model of dinghy...


Here's one place to get the bits. Shop around.
 
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Thanks alot Guy's, It worked out pretty well. The Davit arms aren't perfect but when they're on the boat the Dink will be on top! I used a Random Orbital and the Fein tool and was able to get the bad spots sanded!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 

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