Spring Gremlins this year!

True North

Member
Sep 11, 2012
165
Live: DeWitt, MI,West Michigan (Ludington)
Boat Info
2005 SR 260DA
350 MAG MPI
Bravo 3
Engines
(1) 350 MAG MPI w/Bravo III
OK, just replaced the alternator on starboard motor for irregular voltage spikes. Now it appears I have a starter going out on my port motor, but wanted to describe the situation to verify before I go replacing it because like everything else in these old motors, it sure isn't easy to work on or access (bottom left side of the motor, have to basically take it off while laying upside down in the bilge LOL!)

Symptoms:
First off, port side starter battery has good fluid level and been on a tender off and on throughout the off season as well as hooked up to shore power charger. I verified voltage of the battery with a voltmeter at 12.8V.

Go to turn the port motor over and all I get is the "machine-gun" clicking sound. Didn't have 2 people in the boat to be able to stick my head down there to verify, but pretty sure. So here's where it gets interesting before I verified the starter battery voltage. The first time when I was running the boat on the muffs, when I had the starboard motor running at a higher rmp, I was able to get the port starter to "connect" and turn the port motor over after a few attempts, but as soon as I turned off the starboard motor and try to restart the port motor, I was not able to get the port motor to turn over, only the machine gun clicking. Then I took it one step further and hooked up my remote jump to the starter battery. First few times I turned the key I got the machine gun clicking, but then it started. I was able to reproduce this with the remote starter hooked up. Keep in mind voltage on the dash shows about 13V when the key is turned.

So, do I have a starter issue (intermittent) or a battery issue? Once the motor is running, all is good. If my battery was bad, I would think that it would reflect on my voltmeter and the dash guage??? But why will the starter work better if I hook up my remote jump starter to the battery? That's what is making me second guess the starter, and it would be a lot cheaper and easier to replace a bad battery vs. a new starter. All other power items (trim/tilt) etc. work as it should on the port motor. Thoughts?
 
12.8V is like what a brand new battery would read. If you're testing with the shore power off (hopefully you are), run some other 12V items off that battery, first. Then check the voltage again. How old is the battery?

It could be your starter, but since things work with a battery jumper (which basically eliminates the existing battery from the circuit since you're jumping onto the cables), it very well could be your battery. First, let's find out for sure if the battery is good. Then, remove and clean the battery terminals/lugs and reattach making sure they are TIGHT. Then, just to be sure, check the connection at the starter. If needed, swap a KNOWN good battery in there and see what happens.

On a side note... at 30 years old, it is way past time to remove all electrical connections, both + & -, and clean/replace. It may even be time to replace actual wires/cables. It's quite possible that at least part of your trouble (past and future) is simply old/dirty/corroded electrical connections. At a bare minimum, it's excellent preventative maintenance.
 
Last edited:
Lazy Daze-
Thank you for your response, I appreciate the assistance. A little more background; All electrical components (minus the starters) including spark plug wires, distributors, battery cables, etc. have been replaced by PO less than 5 years of use ago. In addition, I am confident that all connections are clean and tight as I checked all battery connections of all 3 batteries, there is dielectric grease on the studs and fittings with nuts secure, and I verified connections on the starter were tight with a socket wrench. I typically check all electrical connections and hose clamps for tightness beginning of each season. Previous owner was meticulous as am I, but for some reason I've had a rough start this year with first an alternator, and now maybe a starter. When I verified voltage it was not hooked up to shore power, it was pulled from the boat free standing. I thought about swapping batteries, but that is such a pain as none of them are easily accessible (laying on my stomach and reaching underneath the rear deck to reach them. That's why I was "testing the waters" to see if it sounded like a starter or battery issue. From my standpoint I believe the battery to be good, but it does not make sense to me that if I hook up my jumper that somehow there is enough juice to make the starter work, although intermittently and after a few tries. The other thing to note is this issue presented after being stored for the season i.e. I didn't have a single issue with the starter during usage last year thus maybe a lack of use issue? The boat is not left in the water except on weekends occasionally, fresh water only, remains in dry climate-controlled storage the rest of it's life, i.e. not likely a moisture/corrosion issue. Have never seen any sign of corrosion on this boat.

So if I'm going to spend an hour + swapping batteries around, I'd just assume take that hour of valuable time trying to replace the starter, as I can tell it won't be an easy job in terms of getting to it. But like you, process of elimination tells me I need to swap the battery out to make sure...... :(
 
Generally the "machine gun" clicking is a result of low voltage.

A bad starter will many times result in one single "click"

Either the battery voltage is low, or you have loose/corroded connections.
 
I would load test the battery first, a lot of the auto parts store have the tester to do it, easy and simple test to do to eliminate the battery and if good could be the slave starter selinoid.
 
perfect, thanks for the suggestion. I'll pull the battery and have them do a load test. It would be great if it was the battery and not the starter itself, and a lot easier fix. I traced back all the connections from the battery to the starter, to the motor and checked tightness, didn't find anything loose, but checked what I could. I will report back once I have the battery load tested. Thanks all for your assistance.
 
i would take a close look at the starter slave solenoids....very common item to go bad and produce off/on starting of an engine or no starting at all....they are easy to replace and not very expensive....just trace the red cable from your engine starter backwards until you locate the slave solenoid....

cliff
 
So the batteries could be approaching 5 years old?

The main thing I am seeing (thanks for the extra details) is that it works when you apply a jumper pak. That is essentially the same thing as swapping in another battery. BUT... you said it doesn't make the starter work EVERY time? Then we're back to either connections (which you said are verified good) or the starter. However, there is the possibility that a failing battery is pulling some of the amps from the battery pak. Is it a single battery going to the starter? No switch being used to combine? Do this: remove the negative lead from the starter battery and use the battery pak again. If it works every time... bad battery. If it's still funky once in a while, "most" likely it's the starter.
 
Clean ALL the connections, especially ground terminals, and don't forget the ends connected to the engine blocks, they turn green too. Clean both ends of the positive cables also, especially at the starter. A dirty connection will result in high resistance and even a good battery may have trouble with a connection like that. Make sure they are all tight when done and put some dielectric grease on them to keep them from getting exposed to air and water.
 
Swap out the port and starboard battery banks and see if the problem moves over.
That way you don’t have to lift them in and out of the bilge for no reason.
Sounds like a bad battery to me, but I’d swap them over just in case it’s a bad connection before spending the money on new batteries.
If you need new batteries, take a look at Walmart for good prices.
Slave solenoid is another possibility. They are cheap and easy to swap out. I’d probably swap them from one motor to the other to see if the problem moves over.
Clean those connections while you’re at it.
If it were the starter it would either go “clunk” or if the shaft were gummed up after sitting in the off season the Bendix gear would spin freely because it wasn’t kicking out to engage the flywheel.
 
winner, winner, chicken dinner....we have a winner! Atrick suggested getting the battery load tested.....
Even though my battery showed 13V, even when not hooked up to anything, and kept its charge over time, when they load tested it (I didn't know that was a thing-thank you) my cranking amps were only at 61, vs. the 800 the battery was rated for. So after checking all the connections, and messing with the jumper, slave solenoid, mercathode, etc. it ended up being s simple battery issue (thankfully). So new battery in now and fires right up. Thank you all for chiming in and giving me various things to check. I always like to follow up so if someone else has a similar issue there is resolve. Thanks again everyone, this is a great forum. I do believe everything is working 100% as it should and I should be ready to get it wet, as soon as the weather cooperates!
 

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