Spoiling my baby

[PMvdb395DA]

I took my 360DA out of the water to give her new anti fouling.
Also I take off the striping and letters, because they where damaged.
After that I polished and waxed the hull.
Also mounted some new anodes.

Here you see some photo’s

 

[sr360aft]

Looks great :thumbsup:

 

[Skeetobite]

That's treating her right!

I'm schedule for the same treatment for my 370db in January.

Not to highjack your thread, but...

I had my bottom done about 14 months ago. Black ablative over green (enamal I think). I dive under the boat monthly and found the bottom overall to still be spotless. But, the ablative paint at the waterline is coming off in patches so badly it looks diseased with the green showing through the black. I suspect a poor prep job last time, but would like your thoughts.

 

[fwebster]

Bottom paint coming off in flakes or hunks is usually a sign of either improper (hurried or lazy) preparation or a problem with paint chemistry that affects the bond between earlier paints and tha paint that is coming off.

I doubt you have an enamel bottom surface underneath, more likely it is a hard or non-ablative paint and you are dealing with a poor surface preparation. The best way to prep a hard paint for recoating is to sant it thoroughly enough that you see lots of white gelcoat where you removed almost all the old paint.

 

[Skip]

Peter,
She looks great...lots of hard work and it shows. On your stern thruster, it appears as though the anode on the outer end of the prop assembly is beginning to show wastage-worth replacing, either while she is out or by wetsuit / mask if she is back in-
A beautiful boat
regards
Skip

 

[PMvdb395DA]

That's treating her right!

I'm schedule for the same treatment for my 370db in January.

Not to highjack your thread, but...

I had my bottom done about 14 months ago. Black ablative over green (enamal I think). I dive under the boat monthly and found the bottom overall to still be spotless. But, the ablative paint at the waterline is coming off in patches so badly it looks diseased with the green showing through the black. I suspect a poor prep job last time, but would like your thoughts.

It's very important to follow overcoating times and immersion times carefully.
These are the biggest causes of antifouling detachment.
Water is a very aggressive environment for paint and it is therefore very important that the paint is allowed to dry thoroughly, before launch.

Also it is very important to apply the correct thickness of antifouling even if it means putting on an extra coat.​

Apply an extra coat to all leading and trailing edges, water-line, trim-tabs, outdrives, keel and rudder.
High turbulence in these areas tends to wear the antifouling faster.​

Also check for compatibility, if you know what antifouling is currently on your boat, you can quickly determine whether
your paint choice is compatible, otherwise use a primer.​

Indeed, remove any loose, flaking areas with a scraper. Rinse with fresh water and allow to dry before applying the new antifouling. If the old coating is in poor condition it is advisable to remove it.​

Peter​

 

[Skeetobite]

It's very important to follow overcoating times and immersion times carefully.
These are the biggest causes of antifouling detachment.
Water is a very aggressive environment for paint and it is therefore very important that the paint is allowed to dry thoroughly, before launch.

Also it is very important to apply the correct thickness of antifouling even if it means putting on an extra coat.​

Apply an extra coat to all leading and trailing edges, water-line, trim-tabs, outdrives, keel and rudder.
High turbulence in these areas tends to wear the antifouling faster.​

Also check for compatibility, if you know what antifouling is currently on your boat, you can quickly determine whether
your paint choice is compatible, otherwise use a primer.​

Indeed, remove any loose, flaking areas with a scraper. Rinse with fresh water and allow to dry before applying the new antifouling. If the old coating is in poor condition it is advisable to remove it.​

Peter​

Thanks much. I'm going to a different yard this time and they will sand the waterline down for me. The remainder of the hull is pristine like the day it was first painted. Will be using the same paint as last time. The new yard does one coat on the bottom and 3 coats on leading edges and waterline. They said they won't release the boat for 72 hours after the paint is done to ensure their guarantee.

 

[JV II]

Beautiful pain job. My new 290 is sitting in the showroom waiting for next season. Bottom paint was itemized on the options list. The bottom is indeed painted black, but with white showing through is areas where the hoist straps go on the chines. It is certainly not as nice a job as what you show. I assume what I see is what I get. Maybe its just primer and it will be painted before it goes in? If the boat did not come with bottom paint would the hull be shiny white? I am concerned about the quality of the job I see after seeing your boat. I'm hoping its primer now. I'm going to e-mail the dealer.

 

[JV II]

I just e-mailed Sea Ray on this too. The "bottom paint" option was $1500. It separately itemizes "dealer prep," so I have to wonder if what I see is manufacturer applied anti-fouling paint or a primer prep. "Bottom paint" does not necessarily specify anti-fouling. I suppose I could get slammed with anti-fouling paint in the spring. That could be deceptive for a new boat buyer. I'll let you know how it turned out with Sea Ray and the Dealer. Any experience from other new Sea Ray buyers on this?

 

[Asureyez]

Hi Peter:

Really nice work. I wonder what you have coated the trim tabs with? Will this coating I interfer with the zinc anodes on the tabs?

 

[PMvdb395DA]

Hi Peter:

Really nice work. I wonder what you have coated the trim tabs with? Will this coating I interfer with the zinc anodes on the tabs?

Trim tabs are built of aluminum.
This presents compatibility issues with antifouling that contain cuprous-oxide.​

I removed the old paint with a scraper and sanding.
Than I degreased the metal surface with thinner.
Afther that I put one thin coat of Viny-Lux Primewash this is a aliminium primer, and than four coats of Primocon this is a normal primer.​

You can paint also normal anti fouling over the primocon primer, but never apply an antifouling containing cuprous oxide direct to aluminum.
Than you don't have to put on four coats of the primer but one.​

A specialist told me that a four coat primer is stronger on aliminium than normal anti fouling.​

This all will not interfer with the anodes.​

Succes.​

Peter.​

 

[osd9]

Peter...are you sure that those tabs are Aluminum? They look like Bennet tabs, and back here in the States, all Bennets that I've ever seen were stainless. And BTW, you didn't paint the tabs under the tab zinc.....did you??? That zinc should have a good electro-mechanical connection with the bare metal of the tab.

Boat looks great!!!!

 

[jrcinnh]

Julia Valentine, If you search here on factory bottom paint you see a couple threads about it. It sounds like it an ablative anti-fouling paint. Your dealer shouldn't have to do anything else to it. But if the paint is a little worn from the hoist a good dealer would touch up the paint for you before delivery. I would demand it. I've seen it on new boats on the dealer lot and it does almost look like a primer. Remember that ablative paint is supposed to dissolve slowly as your boat is in the water, it's not as hard as real paint. The dealer prep on your new boat is all the work putting the boat together, a lot of little things come disassembled from the factory. Plus I'm sure there a little extra profit for the dealer.

 

[PMvdb395DA]

I just e-mailed Sea Ray on this too. The "bottom paint" option was $1500. It separately itemizes "dealer prep," so I have to wonder if what I see is manufacturer applied anti-fouling paint or a primer prep. "Bottom paint" does not necessarily specify anti-fouling. I suppose I could get slammed with anti-fouling paint in the spring. That could be deceptive for a new boat buyer. I'll let you know how it turned out with Sea Ray and the Dealer. Any experience from other new Sea Ray buyers on this?

For $1500 I would do it myself....
On a new boat allready in the primer it's a peace of a cake, to do it yourself.
You can use the best antifouling ($400)and put on three coats.
Than you have the best result for 2 seasons at least.

Peter

 

[PMvdb395DA]

Peter...are you sure that those tabs are Aluminum? They look like Bennet tabs, and back here in the States, all Bennets that I've ever seen were stainless. And BTW, you didn't paint the tabs under the tab zinc.....did you??? That zinc should have a good electro-mechanical connection with the bare metal of the tab.

Boat looks great!!!!

Dom, I thought they are aluminium but you are right, they are stainless, but the methode is the same.
Under the zinc there is no paint

Peter