Speakers popping while trimming

This is great. I can't wait to pick some up and get them installed. I've been a bit busy lately, but hopefully this weekend I'll get them on as well. TexA&M, any pics of the install? Where are ya'll mounting the caps? I'm assuming near the backside of the shifter?
 
I'll try to take some pictures today when I get home. Heading out to the lake this weekend though, so may be Sunday before I can post them.

As far as the install, I used some creative thinking... I wired both negative leads on the caps to the same wire and grounded them to the ground block under the dash. Now, if you follow the main harness back, you'll find a 4 wire connector that connects the wires coming out of the throttle handle to the main harness. For the positive leads, I just pressed them into backside of this 4-wire connector (one cap lead went by the green wire, and the other went by the blue wire) by the throttle. The fit was tight enough that they held, and this way, I didn't have to cut any wires or do any soldering. It's a semi permanent install that didn't change anything about the original wiring. It was faster and easier as well. I'll know after this weekend if it will hold for the long run.
 
Took me 15 minutes once I had it mapped out in my head and test fit the caps into the 4 wire plug. Hopefully it will only take you the same 15 minutes since I've done the prework for you!
 
Hi Guys,

I experienced the same speaker "pops" whenever using the power tilt/trim on my 2009 185 after I did a stereo upgrade involving 2 amps.... I am very happy to report installing the capacitors recommended onto the blue and green wires mentioned below resolved the popping!!! I'm so stoked about this, and I never would have figured that out on my own -- so, THANK YOU!!!!:smt038:smt038:smt038:smt038:smt038:smt038
 
Do you think this problem could be fixed by adding a capacitor to the main power wire going to the amp? I have a Sea Ray 210 that originally had a Sony amp pulling 400 watts, and upgraded to a Rockford amp now pulling 750 watts. I didn’t change any wiring. Now when I go to hit the trim tab the speakers pop. In my case, it seems like the batteries are simply overwhelmed while the trim motor and the amp is going at the same time. Perhaps a cap on the 4ga wire would solve this issue? Thanks.
 
Aris Hoath said:
Do you think this problem could be fixed by adding a capacitor to the main power wire going to the amp? I have a Sea Ray 210 that originally had a Sony amp pulling 400 watts, and upgraded to a Rockford amp now pulling 750 watts. I didn’t change any wiring. Now when I go to hit the trim tab the speakers pop. In my case, it seems like the batteries are simply overwhelmed while the trim motor and the amp is going at the same time. Perhaps a cap on the 4ga wire would solve this issue? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Even if that would work, the solution indicated before (small caps on the trim power wires) would be significantly cheaper (~$5)
 
Aris Hoath said:
Do you think this problem could be fixed by adding a capacitor to the main power wire going to the amp? I have a Sea Ray 210 that originally had a Sony amp pulling 400 watts, and upgraded to a Rockford amp now pulling 750 watts. I didn’t change any wiring. Now when I go to hit the trim tab the speakers pop. In my case, it seems like the batteries are simply overwhelmed while the trim motor and the amp is going at the same time. Perhaps a cap on the 4ga wire would solve this issue? Thanks.
Click to expand...
The watts are output watts in AC and are variable, not constant. They are likely more marketing then real world.

I would say that the DC amperage draw difference between the old 400W amp and the new 750W amp, is likely about 10A additional draw. I would not suggest a stiffening CAP on the power wires. If low battery capacity is an issue, adding more battery AH is the better route to take. In non-daily drivers, a CAP can be a liability to the batteries as well.

Id go with the small CAPs across the trim motor circuit as described in this thread, first.
 
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