Some weird stuff happening 2002 300DA Sundancer

Bill M

New Member
Jun 19, 2018
12
Boat Info
2002 Sundancer 300
Engines
Twin Mercruiser 350 EFI and Bravo III Drives
Here's the scenario: Nice Father's Day cruise, heading to a local restaurant, (tachs are a little jumpy) and lose power on the port engine.
Dock with one engine, shut everything down, then restart both engines, no problem. An hour later after lunch, starboard starts, port does not (cranks, but wont kick over). Limp home on one engine, shut everything down.
Go out a little later and both engines start, take for a cruise and everything is fine. Shut boat down for the night, go out yesterday and both engines run beautifully.
Try to raise the engine hatch to have a look around, no response from dash switches for the hatch, bilge pump or bilge exhaust fan. On the right pad, no response from the Windlass control or cockpit lights. Everything else on the left/right keypads work!
Could be one of the batteries? or a connector?
Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

Sooo... I finally get the pin pulled and get the engine hatch open. Check everything I could see: no loose connections, no loose grounds, no corrosion that is apparent anywhere. I pulled the battery cables to clean the posts and put a voltmeter on and 3 of them read 13.2v and one is at 6.1v..... Hooray, right? Wrong! I replace the two older port side batteries that are 3 years old, hook them up exactly as the old ones (really can't mix that up on this boat) and now my Promariner Pronautic 1220 Battery charger (2 years old) goes into "Conditioning Mode", ramps up to 20+amps and kicks the DC breaker off in about one minute... What the heck?? HELP!
 
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Bill, the only thing i can offer is that I’m having some issues with the lower EIM on my 2006 300 that I have determined are being caused by heat from the generator/engines. Mostly blowing the fuses but I’ve read some stories on various threads about some really bad problems with pad switches and fuses that have heat and corrosion issues. The EIM and switches can be replaced aftermarket but have to be replaced in pairs. The battery issues starts a whole new line of thinking, I wish I could be of more help.
 
Bill, the only thing i can offer is that I’m having some issues with the lower EIM on my 2006 300 that I have determined are being caused by heat from the generator/engines. Mostly blowing the fuses but I’ve read some stories on various threads about some really bad problems with pad switches and fuses that have heat and corrosion issues. The EIM and switches can be replaced aftermarket but have to be replaced in pairs. The battery issues starts a whole new line of thinking, I wish I could be of more help.

Thanks for the reply. That's the weird thing, NONE of the breakers on my aft EIM are tripped. I have power to it, but nothing coming out. If I trip the DC Breaker for the aft module and reset it, I get a relay click when I press the hatch up button on the helm. But only once, then it's silent.
 
Check resistance on one side va the other. Maybe somethjng burned up or came loose on that side inside the panel.
 

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