Smart Craft 101 for a dumby

[trooper10]

I have just recently purchased a 2003 320 da with twin 6.2L V-drives. As I have been reading through some of the forums there
is some discussions on the smart craft units. My boat does not have one. My question is this. Is there much benefit to having such a unit installed (worth the money)? When installing one of these units are all the wiring harnesses already in place or do you need to buy these separate and install for each function of the smart craft unit? Do these units interfere with the output of the original installed gauges or is this system just more accurate then the typical analog gauges? Is this something I could install myself or does it need to be done by a mech? From what I have read so far I do believe it would be beneficial to have on board. Any input or info about these units would be much appricated as they are new to me.

 

[CJ Martin]

It is not a hard job, the hardest part is rounding up everything you need.

First, determine which setup you want - the large LCD SC5000 or the SC1000 tachs & speedo. You do not need both. In my case, I went with the SC1000 guages because I had a chartplotter already installed on the helm panel directly in front of the wheel - so no room for it. If you go the route I did, you will need a new gauge panel from Sea Ray as the SC1000 tachs are smaller than the analog tachs, also you need a large hole for the speedo (which goes in the center, in place of the syncro gauge you have now). I've seen this panel on eBay recently, BTW.

For my 320DA setup, I needed a new gauge panel, two SC1000 tachs, a SC1000 speedometer, a 6-way junction box, two engine cables, and three (much shorter) cables to hook up the SC1000 gauges. I don't have the steering sensor, don't see much need for it to be honest.

You can run with the analog 4-in-1's, but you will get a fuel sensor error - a bit annoying, but no big deal. I ended up getting Smartcraft 4-in-1's and swapped out the analogs. This requires some minor (but critical) wiring changes at the fuel tank senders. Your senders do not need to be replaced, just re-wired to use 5vdc from the engine ECM vice 12vdc from the old analog harness. I left my old harnesses in place, btw. Didn't see much reason to remove them.

Last thing with the gauges - I had to hunt around to end up with SC1000 gauges with the Sea Ray logo in them. The Mercury gauges will work fine (in fact I have a nearly new set I need to sell), but the backlighting is red vice blue. Also make sure all SC1000 gauges have the same software version in them - you can't get them updated.

-CJ

 

[Henry Boyd]

I don't have much to add beyond what Scott and CJ have reported, other than to say that I also did a full DIY SC upgrade on our 02 280.

I will point out that if you go with using a SC5000 display and integrate it with NMEA data input from a GPS you will also get expanded trip planning and navigation data, e.g. compass rose display showing waypoint heading and XTE, a time to go, miles to and fuel consumption, and a total enegine hours, avg miles (n, or s depending on set up) per gallon, and average speed. The last display can be reset to zero. This is a nice feature for future trip planning.

While the SC500 does not control engine sync, it does have a graphical display for engine syncing. Having a single engine boat I don't use this feature but have on friend's boats with twins.

ALso by using the SC5000 you can buy the less expensive SC100 link speedo and tachs, and you only need to run one cable from engine compartment to helm.

Other benefits include ability to add steering sensors, depth transducer, and additional tank level indicators (e.g. fresh water).

Henry

 

[trooper10]

Thank you for all the info and insight, I think for now maybe I will start with simply upgrading my GPS. This system does sound very beneficial and I will definitely be looking into this in the near future.

 

[roger275]

Can anyone advise how does smartcraft gets "Fuel Flow" info for calculating mpg? My old GradyWhite had very accurate turbine meters in series with fuel lines but I can't find them on my 280DA. My readouts are the electronic tach / speedo with the mode/troll+/troll- buttons. I can pull up "Inst MPG" and "Average MPG" readings but they seem very inacurrate.

Thanks!

 

[Tail Chaser 661]

Since I already have everything needed for trip planning. Furuno Navnet chartplotter/radar with a Norstar fuel flow gauge. I'm keeping my new smartcraft capable engine Analog, No smartcraft on my new engine. Gives me much more options on my gauge choices also. I will buy the scan tool for troubleshooting.
There's a fair amount of post stating the GPH burn is not very accurate with there smartcraft systems. Calculates the burn rates through the injectors:huh: Instead of flow out of the tank.

 

[Henry Boyd]

Isn't flow out of the tank equally problematic on the newer fuel injected engines that cycle fuel flow back to the tank?

Henry

 

[Tail Chaser 661]

Its only the diesel engines that have the return lines.
I believe gas engines, There trying to keep the fuel cooler. Power/Vapour lock:huh:
My 8.1 has a fuel cooler and no return line to tank.