Slipstream PMF treated Diesel fuel

JVM225

Well-Known Member
Apr 8, 2008
6,560
New York
Boat Info
2002 410 Sundancer, Monaco Edition.
Engines
3126 Cats.
Has anyone ever heard of, or used this stuff?
Slipstreampmf.com
I often get fuel delivered to my boat at my dock by a fuel truck. It's an owner operator business, and the owner has always had a good local reputation.
I missed last season because I sold my old gas powered boat and was shopping for my current boat.
I called to schedule a delivery of diesel today and the vendor explained that he started selling this stuff last season and that it already has all of the additives in it so there is no need to treat the diesel fuel during the regular season. It will now only require whatever additional product you would normally add to the fuel as part of the winterization process.
Does anyone have any insight or advice?
 
Morrisons in Beach Haven NJ started selling Slipstream gas and diesel 3 years ago. I have used their gas quite often and have had no problems. I have twin gas inboards. From what I have been told, it's similar to Valvtect, but I can report no problems since I've been using it.
 
I looked at the website you linked and I do not see where this company specifically adds a lubricity additive or a biocide, nor do I see any data telling users what their additive does to lubricity or if it contains alcohol. The quickest and cheapest way to emulsify water in fuel is to dose it with alcohol, but modern fuel systems are not tolerant to alcohol since it degrades o-rings and seals. They also do not mention any improvement to cetane (which is needed for ULSD fuels because the flash point is lower and causes hard starting and starter gear wear.

My advice is to investigate it thoroughly and find out what you are really burning with Slipstream fuels. It may be fine, but you sure can't get any details from their website.


Here are 2 other points……..

First, we just had a post here yesterday about a Cat 3126 owner who had an injector fail due to a lack of lubricity, he washed out a cylinder (fuel sprays from a bad injector instead of it atomizing it; the fuel enters as a spray and literally washes the lube oil off the cylinder walls which wears out the cylinder liner prematurely) and had to install a remanned engine on one side. This is serious stuff for engines built before 2006. You just cannot assume your fuel supply has the correct lubricity unless you either add it yourself or verify from the fuel source exactly what the lubricity level in their fuel is.

Second, my marina switched to ValvTech fuel 3 years ago. The marina, the fuel distributor and Valvetech all either don't know, can't find out or aren't willing to tell me what Valvetech additives do to lubricity. "It improves it" isn't a satisfactory answer when it is my $75,000 worth of engines at stake, so I still add a biocide, a lubricity improver and a general diesel additive to increase cetane.

Here is some reading if you care to get further into the subject:

http://clubsearay.com/content.php/4-Diesel-Fuel-Management
 
FYI. For what it's worth I follow Franks advice as well. I add a lubricity enhancer, a cetane improver, and a biocide.


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It is simple, easy and cheap insurance to go with the above recommendations. I would highly recommend following it unless there is documented evidence they are in compliance.


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I looked at the website you linked and I do not see where this company specifically adds a lubricity additive or a biocide, nor do I see any data telling users what their additive does to lubricity or if it contains alcohol. The quickest and cheapest way to emulsify water in fuel is to dose it with alcohol, but modern fuel systems are not tolerant to alcohol since it degrades o-rings and seals. They also do not mention any improvement to cetane (which is needed for ULSD fuels because the flash point is lower and causes hard starting and starter gear wear.

My advice is to investigate it thoroughly and find out what you are really burning with Slipstream fuels. It may be fine, but you sure can't get any details from their website.


Here are 2 other points……..

First, we just had a post here yesterday about a Cat 3126 owner who had an injector fail due to a lack of lubricity, he washed out a cylinder (fuel sprays from a bad injector instead of it atomizing it; the fuel enters as a spray and literally washes the lube oil off the cylinder walls which wears out the cylinder liner prematurely) and had to install a remanned engine on one side. This is serious stuff for engines built before 2006. You just cannot assume your fuel supply has the correct lubricity unless you either add it yourself or verify from the fuel source exactly what the lubricity level in their fuel is.

Second, my marina switched to ValvTech fuel 3 years ago. The marina, the fuel distributor and Valvetech all either don't know, can't find out or aren't willing to tell me what Valvetech additives do to lubricity. "It improves it" isn't a satisfactory answer when it is my $75,000 worth of engines at stake, so I still add a biocide, a lubricity improver and a general diesel additive to increase cetane.

Here is some reading if you care to get further into the subject:

http://clubsearay.com/content.php/4-Diesel-Fuel-Management

Frank,
It says that it increases the Cetane by 5 numbers, so that probably negates the need to use Power Service Diesel Kleen with Cetane Boost.
But it doesn't say anything about Lubricity or Biocides.
The vendor only sells this treated diesel fuel and I would really like to keep using him.
That leaves me with a couple of choices:
1. Would it be ok to just add the appropriate amounts of Stanadyne Lubricity Formula and Power Service Bio Kleen Biocide to supplement whatever they use that boosts the Cetane numbers?
2. Would it be ok to add all three (Diesel Kleen, Standadyne Lubricity, Biocide) in your recommended doses to the already treated diesel fuel just to be safe? Would duplicating their additives cause any problems?

There were times with my old boat that I bought gas that contained Valvetect, but I always added my usual stuff anyway just to be safe. Would the same logic apply here?
 
The manufacturers I mentioned, Power Service and Stanadyne both say their additives will not over treat. I have used all 3 in recommended dosages ever since our marina switched to Valvetect fuel.

The message in my post is it doesn't matter who you get your fuel from or what they promise but you have to know specifically what fuel is going thru your injection system. If you fuel distributor cannot tell you what level of lubricity his fuel meets then either treat the fuel yourself of hope the stuff he dumps in his tanks will protect your engines.
 
I actually use stenadyne lubricity and stenadyne performance cetane booster. Plus diesel 911 biocide. As Frank states they say you can't overtreat so I feel comfortable using at every fill up.


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The manufacturers I mentioned, Power Service and Stanadyne both say their additives will not over treat. I have used all 3 in recommended dosages ever since our marina switched to Valvetect fuel.

The message in my post is it doesn't matter who you get your fuel from or what they promise but you have to know specifically what fuel is going thru your injection system. If you fuel distributor cannot tell you what level of lubricity his fuel meets then either treat the fuel yourself of hope the stuff he dumps in his tanks will protect your engines.

Thanks Frank! Ultimately, no matter what the vendor or website says about the additive in the diesel fuel, I'm going with what you recommend. You've been spot on in everything you advised me about on this new to me boat.
My concern was that I didn't want to over treat, but since there is no problem if it gets a little over treated, I will continue to use the vendor.
The luxury of having fuel delivered right to the boat on my home dock has me spoiled, and their are only two vendors that do it around here.
The first is the guy I've been using for several years that now sells the treated fuel. The other company doesn't treat their fuel, but I'd rather not switch to them if I don't have to because I'm very happy with the guy I use. He's always given me great customer service and I like to stick with people who understand the value of great customer service. Plus he's an owner operator who is busting his back to make an honest living, and I like to deal with people like that too.
Would there be any problem pre mixing all three products and storing them in containers that treat say 100 Gallons? I see in your write up that you pre-mix 2 of them and was wondering if I could pre-mix all 3.
I'll most likely get fuel when I need about 100 gallons in each tank and it would be easier to just dump a pre-mixed dose in each tank when I fuel up.
 
Last edited:
You talking about Gene @ Rising Tide?

If so he gave me the same shpeal last year.. I still use him, he is the cheapest and it's so easy not having to go anywhere... he fills up a majority of the boats at our marina and I'm pretty sure everyone bought the story about not having to add additives... I hopeing for the best! So far so good...


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You talking about Gene @ Rising Tide?

If so he gave me the same shpeal last year.. I still use him, he is the cheapest and it's so easy not having to go anywhere... he fills up a majority of the boats at our marina and I'm pretty sure everyone bought the story about not having to add additives... I hopeing for the best! So far so good...


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Yes, that's who I use. I missed last season while boat shopping, but I've been using him for several years. He's a nice guy, and he's reliable. It's a shame that the County gave him a hard time, but it looks like he prevailed in the end.
He told me he started selling this product in both his gasoline and diesel last season.
I know he does a lot of construction sites. I wonder how those guys are making out with this stuff.
Either way, I'm following Frank's recommendation. The extra couple of bucks for the additives he recommends aren't a whole lot in the grand scheme of things and I'd rather play it safe.
I was more worried about over treating with stuff, but since this doesn't appear to be a problem I'm going to keep using Gene.
 

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