single point, closed cooling, and twin 5.0's

[scoflaw]

For the people that own one of these boats, you can understand the difficulty removing the 2 blue plugs on the raw water pump. I'm thinking about draining as much as possible with the single point method, and then adding AF thru the seacock, while the motor is running. Any thoughts on this, or better way?

 

[Presentation]

Please tell me what seacock you are talking about.
My 280 Sundancer with Bravo III drives has no seacock to feed water to the engines, air conditioning and generator yes, main engines no.

I agree the two blue plugs on the water pump are very difficult to access.

I’ve winterized by removing the water pump freeze plugs and I’ve winterized by running pink antifreeze via muffs connected to the outdrive. After doing it both ways my preference is the muff method.

With the muffs connected to a water hose I run the engines to full temperature, shut down, drain the block, switch the muffs to the jug with ploy pink antifreeze, open the spickot, run the engine until I see pink / white bubbly stuff coming out the drive then shut down.

 

[scoflaw]

My closed cooling boat has a thru hull fitting, for each engine, that goes to a seacock, strainer setup, that has a Y fitting that also goes to the outdrive, just before the pump. The pump will not pick up water from a lower unit flushing device, and has to be flushed through the thru hull, with the toilet plunger style flusher. Anyone with this setuphave any ideas? Dealer says he pours AF into the strainer when it's running, but also says you have to drain the 3 blue plugs as well. If it was easy to remove the plugs I wouldn't even bother with the AF.