Shower sump wiring help Part II

[Glen S]

I am not an electrition so am looking for advise as to how I should have hooked the new sump wires up. I have re-posted with a sketch to better explain. Sketch shows how the wiring was (assumably factory) and how I now have it for the new sump (#1) .
Simply the old float arm switch is not needed since the float switch is now internal in the new sump/pump assembly. So I removed the old float from the circuit and joined the wiring - shown as BL1 and BL2 (New pump would not work till this circuit was completed either by lifting the old float or joining the wires.) The new sump works great now except the red light for shower sump is now always lit on the in-dash systems monitor. :huh: Help please!

View attachment 9929

 

[tobnpr]

With an integral pump/switch, there's no way to use an indicator light to show when the pump is "on", since it's now hot all the time.

 

[RollerCoastr]

can you give us a link to this sump unit?

 

[Glen S]

Rollercoastr,

This is the link - it is the Attwood 4143-4 which the shop at our marina said was the nearest replacement to the Attwood sump with the V750 pump and seperate float that was there (still there for the day head shower sump). I just wanted to know if I could wire it in such a way to have the in-dash monitor function correctly. If not I will just remove that bulb. It really is not that important for m eto monitor the shower sump when at the helm :smt001


http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Shower-and-Drain-Sump-Pump-System

 

[tobnpr]

I wasn't sure initially what type of automatic pump this is.
Some don't have a float switch (they test for water electronically) and some- like yours-have a float switch, it's just contained within the housing.

I'd remove the lower strainer section and see if the internal wiring from the switch to the pump is accessible. If it is, you could splice the hot lead that goes to the indicator light into it- that way it will light only when the pump is operational.

 

[Glen S]

I wasn't sure initially what type of automatic pump this is.
Some don't have a float switch (they test for water electronically) and some- like yours-have a float switch, it's just contained within the housing.

I'd remove the lower strainer section and see if the internal wiring from the switch to the pump is accessible. If it is, you could splice the hot lead that goes to the indicator light into it- that way it will light only when the pump is operational.

I can try to look this week-end but not been that electrically inclined, which lead on my diagram would you think is the hot lead to the indicator light?:huh:

 

[mjmiron]

I had the same problem when I replaced my sump two years ago. The same little piece of black electrical tape is still holding up well... (covering the indicator light of course) :grin:

 

[tobnpr]

I can try to look this week-end but not been that electrically inclined, which lead on my diagram would you think is the hot lead to the indicator light?:huh:

If it's accessible, you would see a wire going into the switch- the hot feed from the panel; and the other wire from the switch would go to the pump itself. This wire would become hot only when the switch is in the raised (on) position. This isn't on your schematic, it would be inside the pump/switch housing.

If this stuff isn't your forte, try to find a knowledgeable friend before you start cutting wires- or just forget about the indicator light; it's no big deal.