Servicing Alpha I drive: replacing shift cable

Gunn

Gunn

Well-Known Member
TECHNICAL Contributor
Oct 4, 2006
2,335
Potomac River - MD
Boat Info
2003 280DA and 1995 Sea Ray 175
Engines
Twin 4.3l and 3.0l, all w/ AlphaI GenII drives
So I'm nearly ready to undertake removing the Alpha I Gen II outdrive on my boat. I am purchasing a "transom seal kit" which replacing all bellows, hoses, gimbal bearing and gaskets. I'm also getting a "water pump kit" to service that. I purchased this boat last year and don't really know of it's prior service. All I know is I have a bit of water trickling into the bilge area...

It was recommended to me that I replace the shift cable, since I already have it apart. Has anyone DIY'd this? I've read the Mercruiser manual, but it's hard to get the concept until I crack it open and really see what they're talking about. Just looking for any pointers. I think I'm set as far as changing bearing, bellows and water pump. Plus, I'll have the Clymer manual delivered any day now to cross-reference.

Thanks,

Tom
 
I have changed the shift cable on my old boat three times, it is a fairly simple job especially since you will have everything apart, just read the book, make the adjustments carefully per the book so you shift into gear fully and do not permanently depress the kill switch with the linkage. Pay close attention upon reassembly of drive and back to boat to be sure you have forward, neutral, reverse when fully assembled, yes you can very easily have one gear and neutral. Read the book, follow the instructions and you should be fine. You will need a puller for the gimbal bearing, I fabricated one when I changed my gimbal bearing, used heavy flat metal, drilled hole in the center, threaded rod, nuts, washers to fit, three jaw puller attachment from slide hammer and it pulled out easily.
 
Do you have an alignment tool? You should align the engine, especially since you just got it and have it apart.
Plan on checking for worn parts in case you have to order more parts before reassembly.
 
Not a fun job :smt021 ...replacing the boots for me is always a fustrating process. The cable is easy. Make sure you have a small socket set too as it beat a screwdriver and get a better seal. You will also need bellows sealant for the OD boots.

Gimble bearing replacement is straightforward...you need a internal slap hammer puller or you can make one as described above (using threaded rod and a piece of flat stock that is a little bit longer than the bearing ID...I made this tool years ago and it work great - I also pull against the OD housing with the threaded rod instead of using a slap hammer).

Before you start this work, you might want to check your shift boot cable clamp as mine would periodically require replacement and once it corrodes, the boot leaks into the transom and is seen as a slow leak. I also had the gimble housing gasket leak which is a huge job as it require pulling the engine.

Once the gimble bearing is replaced, you need an alignment tool which slips into the gimble bearing and moves it to align with the engine. Don't forget to put the boat in forward to remove the OD and re-install (shift shaft slides into shift boot)

Good Luck
 
EKM said:
Before you start this work, you might want to check your shift boot cable clamp as mine would periodically require replacement and once it corrodes, the boot leaks into the transom and is seen as a slow leak. I also had the gimble housing gasket leak which is a huge job as it require pulling the engine.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the replies. More than one person has suggested that the leak is coming from the shift cable boot. You say before I start to check it. Is it possible to check it before removing anything? I really can't see much of anything with everything together. With the outdrive up, I can just barely see some sort of boot up in there....

This will be fun; all these manuals and tips I've read, I'm really curious to see what it all looks like "live". :wink: Not to mention I need to get this done to get the boat in the water soon (if this weather ever breaks!).
 
Just tilt the OD up and the shift cable has a small boot with a pressed on clamp sealing the end of the boot to the cable (cable is on the right side of the OD-below the pivot point). If this clamp is gone (~3/8" diam), your shift boot will typically leak. Easy fix...
Good luck
 
EKM said:
Just tilt the OD up and the shift cable has a small boot with a pressed on clamp sealing the end of the boot to the cable (cable is on the right side of the OD-below the pivot point). If this clamp is gone (~3/8" diam), your shift boot will typically leak. Easy fix...
Good luck
Click to expand...

Well. Finally got everything else taken care of, and got the boat in the garage and started to service it. I fully raised the drive and crawled underneath. Guess what? No clamp on the shift cable bellows! Thanks for the tip! :thumbsup: I'm going to get a new clamp and then water test it to see if I got the culprit, before I do anything else. Then, depending on the results, I'll remove the outdrive and do normal service...or replace all the bellows as planned.

Thanks again,

Tom
 
Great news.. :cool: ..this is your most likely your leak. Make sure you get the C clamp from Merc and not use a hose clamp as it tends to cut into the boot. Now what to do with the rebuilding kit??

Let us know how you make out....Ed

[/b]
 
My shifter boot is just now starting to show wear, can this just rip apart and sink you ? I have a 268 searay i have two bilge pumps under the engine they are rated to pump 440 gallons an hour. This is just a curious question only I'm going to do all bellows and boot. Just want to know if you could actually sink from this. I sleep on my boat and this kind of makes a man wonder. Lol
 
Roy boy ! said:
My shifter boot is just now starting to show wear, can this just rip apart and sink you ? I have a 268 searay i have two bilge pumps under the engine they are rated to pump 440 gallons an hour. This is just a curious question only I'm going to do all bellows and boot. Just want to know if you could actually sink from this. I sleep on my boat and this kind of makes a man wonder. Lol
Click to expand...

Yes it can, in fact the shift cable boot is usually the first one to tear and start leaking. That's where mine started leaking, I would notice a dripping with the drive down and a small stream when I tilted it up. I am dry stored so I didn't worry too much about it and replaced all the bellows that winter. So yes it can leak into the boat, but no it does not usually start as a catastrophic leak, it's not going to sink the boat over night.
 
Thank you ! Yes I'm going to have all hoses and bellows and shifter cable replaced. I'm already there so just as well do what needs to be done.
 
Do yourself a favor and use only the quicksilver or sierra bellows. Do NOT buy one of the kits off eBay. I was cheap and did that right after I got my 260 and guess what, a year later the shift cable bellows was in shreds and the driveshaft bellows had a couple small tears in it. Its not a fun job to do once let alone having to do it again a year later. The boat had only been in the water one time for about 3 hours before getting layed up for the winter.
 
Plus, I'll have the Clymer manual

Makes a good knee pad ,pm me for info
You will know for sure where the leak is after removing the drive. If the bellow is dry and no rust on the shaft and the gimbal bearing turns smoothly, the leaks is not there.
Shift cable boot, best way is remove it and stretch it while looking at it carefully.If you cant find a leak there and the clamps are tight then looks elseware.
Steering arm rusty, water could enter from a worn seal from a missing grease fitting. Other than that ,a leaking Y pipe, that requires engine removal.
 
Last edited:
LiquidWrench said:
Do yourself a favor and use only the quicksilver or sierra bellows. Do NOT buy one of the kits off eBay. I was cheap and did that right after I got my 260 and guess what, a year later the shift cable bellows was in shreds and the driveshaft bellows had a couple small tears in it. Its not a fun job to do once let alone having to do it again a year later. The boat had only been in the water one time for about 3 hours before getting layed up for the winter.
Click to expand...

+1, I used Sierra parts when I replaced mine 3 years ago - the Sierra parts seemed on par with OEM when I did the work and so far I have had no issues at all.
 
My bad part was I had to redo it on two engines. Twice the fun. Going on 3 years now on the sierra bellows and they still look new. My boat is dry rack stored and I will have them put it on a wash rack before I go out so I can give the bellows a good checkover (amazing how fast water comes in through bad bellows) and I warm the engines up before it splashes. Better to catch running or leaking problems on the hard first.
 
The last Quicksilver bellows I bought had "made in china" on the same label
Maybe they tell the china man to do a better job cause it's OEM ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,144
Messages
1,427,206
Members
61,057
Latest member
DrBones!
Back
Top