Seastar-Teleflex PA1200 dripping fluid - new shaft seal needed

sb in gp

Active Member
Oct 10, 2006
858
Grosse Pointe, MI
Boat Info
2016 Tiara 50 Coupe
Engines
Volvo D11 IPS
When I got my boat I noticed the steering was sloppy (took many turns of the wheel to get a response). I found that it was low on steering fluid. Filled/bled it using the prescribed process and all was good. Several months later the same symptoms. Crawled behind the generator and observed that the Power Assist pump (PA1200) was dripping fluid from a small weep hole on the left hand side (when facing the unit - see attachment #1 with red arrow pointing to the weep hole).

Seastar PA1200 weep hole.jpg

Called Seastar and they said "no parts left for this discontinued unit, buy a new one". So with nothing to lose, I took it apart and found that the device is well engineered and easy to work on. 4 screws and I was at the fluid seal that is leaking from the fluid pressure chamber up into the gear assembly (I'm sure I have the names for these components all wrong).

Called Seastar again and said "come on guys, a $10 seal is going to cost me $1200?". The service tech said sorry, but was nice enough to send me some part information on the seal itself. See attachment #2 below:

Seal for Seastar-Teleflex PA1200 Power Steering pump.jpg

Does anyone know where I can find such a fluid seal? Can these be made? Any other ideas?

Thanks,

Scott
 
I would find your local hydraulic or power transmission (mechanical not auto) supplier that sells seals for industrial machinery. I remember years ago there was a book that you could research the outside diameter, Inside diameter and thickness along with type of slip lip and fluid to be used with. I'm sure it's online nowadays. With the dimensions you have in the drawing, being they look pretty standard, I'll bet you will match it up. Hope this helps, Chris
 
Try www.sealsonline.com I spent some time looking and am getting very close to the Fluidseal P/N you listed in the Seastar Teleflex drawing (I got everything to match but the V at the end). I'm sure if you call them and find the right person, they can point you in the right direction.

JohnG
 
I think the V at the end has to do with the composition of the seal. I got far enough to see that the seal in question is not metric.

I should also add that you probably need to talk to a seal professional about improving the sealing and durability because this pump unit is known for seal failure. I think every one of these in our marina has been replaced at least once.
 
So I think I solved this problem without replacing the unit (won't know for sure until I run the boat for a while). I'll describe what I found in case it might help someone else.

When I took the PA1200 unit apart and looked at the seal it appeared to be seated crooked. I stuck my finger in and pressed it down and it seated flush into it's base (it sort of snapped into place). So that would certainly explain the fluid leak, but not how the seal got dislodged. I was talking to a Teleflex engineer via e-mail and he said that the seal will come dislodged sometimes if you don't have a vented cap on the helm reservoir. He said that the fluid will get hot and expand and the pressure with nowhere to go will push the seal out of place. Makes some sense. The vented cap will release pressure when it hits 20 PSI (they say to not fill the tank all the way up, to leave some room for expansion).

I did not have a vented cap on mine. I found the vented cap online at: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=11075&nobot_crawl

I had to buy a 5-pack for about $40. If anyone wants one I'll sell 3 of them for $10 each including shipping - PM me.

I'll let you know mid-spring if the issue is resolved.

Scott
 
Follow up: installed it back on the boat yesterday and it leaks as bad as ever (never even applied power to it, just leaking when I add oil at the helm and turn the wheel).

I may call some of the seal guys and take a pass at finding a new seal.

Otherwise, it Looks like I'll be buying a new pump. Disappointing.

Scott
 
I would try and search aftermarket. or dealers. Someone might have NOS hanging around. any numbers on manufacturers name on the seal?
 
Great information, thanks for sharing your experience with this pump. I am "looking forward to" possibly removing my pump next weekend to see what I can do to stop a leak myself. If it's the same issue, I may be looking at trying the same fix. I hate to think about ordering a new pump as it seems silly that you can't simply change some seals.
 
Great information, thanks for sharing your experience with this pump. I am "looking forward to" possibly removing my pump next weekend to see what I can do to stop a leak myself. If it's the same issue, I may be looking at trying the same fix. I hate to think about ordering a new pump as it seems silly that you can't simply change some seals.

I found the shaft seal for the PA1200-1 by calling www.sealsourceinc.com and giving them the part number from the picture below. I ordered 5 of them (had to order $10 minimum). They were $2 each. If you need one, call their Portland Office at: 503-281-0020.

Seal for Seastar-Teleflex PA1200 Power Steering pump.jpg

I'll let you know if it works.

Anyone know a procedure to bench test the PA1200 for seal leaks?

Scott
 
Last edited:
There is a fellow who posts on The Hull Truth who operates a business that refurbishes Sea Star steering. He has also been on one of the boat TV shows quite a bit. The company is boatsteeringrebuilders.com. I''ve never used him, but from his posts on THT and what I have heard him say on TV, he seems very knowledgable.

Henry
 
I've spoken to this guy. Teleflex/seastar will not allow him to work on the pa1200 because his cert has expired. He is a nice guy, but is not able to help.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just a quick follow up. Pulled the PA1200 pump off the boat again (getting pretty good at it :grin:). Took it apart and pulled the shaft seal out, which I had not done before. The seal is definitely bad. Looks like to got brittle and cracked, as it is split. So I'm encouraged that replacing the seal is going to fix the problem. Waiting on the seals to arrive in the mail and I'll put it back together and back into the boat and report back.

Scott
 
Installed new shaft seal, remounted the pump on the boat and refilled with fluid and no leaks! The fix was literally a $2 part. I've got a few extra seals if anyone needs one - pm me.

Scott
 
Scott,

Clear your inbox.
 
Any chance you have an extra seal still available? I tried to PM you but the box is full.....I have the old seal out and the number is 40202 but it doesn't match the online searches I have done so far.
 
I cleared inbox space. What are your symptoms? I've given a few away, but I might still have an extra.

Scott
 
I cleared inbox space. What are your symptoms? I've given a few away, but I might still have an extra.

Scott

I could have written this post word for word on the symptoms......I left the vented cap off last weekend to make sure it hadn't failed...I had the seal in my hand (it did not have obvious signs of wear) to take pics then reassembled so I could go boating. The weep hole still leaked so I am guessing the seal is shot....I have a place 20 min from me in Omaha NE that I gave the dimensions to from your post and I am still waiting to hear from them....

If you have an extra I would be interested...Thanks much
 
Can't tell you how happy I am to have found this thread!

I've got a PA1200 and I've got the rebuild kit (Seal, Racetrack O-Ring, and Coupler.

I've got it out of the boat... but I'm trying to determine how to take it apart. I'm attaching some pictures...

070CAAA3-7D41-405C-BA0B-449F4D00FEDD.jpg

8D1E28C3-39AE-4642-84F6-DB61D49A456D.jpg

505CD679-2A9E-4C9D-865D-E47A981C6AEE.jpg

83BF2796-EBCA-40CD-BADC-33F702CF6433.jpg
 
Crazy Pete, the only thing you really need to do is take the two bolts out of the end of the elec motor.....Then remove the 4 allen head bolts that are on the bottom of the hydraulic block to get to the seal I am trying to replace. You will also be at the O-ring but I am not sure what the coupler is you mention.
 

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