Seacock handle is a pain in the butt to reach

[mrsrobinson]

I have 3 seacocks (2 engine one genny) in the aft that are a pain in the butt to get to. The GF wants to throw away her DISH metal pole, I was thinking I could cut a 1-2' section to go over the handle to close/open them when needed.

Anyone else done this?

 

[brewster16]

No pole....just hands and knees and brute strength. I do recommend "exercising" those seacocks. And don't forget the AC strainer too.

 

[bbwhitejr]

I have used a 2'piece of PVC at times and it works well.

Bennett

 

[Little Ducky]

I use my Shurhold extendable pole with the boat hook attachment to reach mine.

 

[Pirate Lady]

No pole....just hands and knees and brute strength. I do recommend "exercising" those seacocks. And don't forget the AC strainer too.

The one on my current boat requires super human strength. I stand on lever to close it, don’t remember my previous boats being this hard. Anything I can do when it’s out this winter to make it easier?

 

[dwna1a]

MrsR I took a broken Hickory handle drilled a hole just a bit bigger than the seacock handle. Then added a SS section of tubing inside the hole. I use it to open and close the seacocks.

At winterization I remove the drain and inject a waterproof grease. If you do this be sure you use a grease that will not effect the rubber inside the seacock. Then exercise them and clean the strainer during the summer A zerk fitting screws right into the drain hole

 

[Lazy Daze]

Greg, if it's just "hard" to turn - then, yes, use whatever you have for leverage. You likely have a square hole in the seacock handle... a ratchet fits right in that. But, sure, anything you have that goes over the handle will obviously work as well.

But take note to the exercising part above... they really shouldn't be hard to close. Try opening and closing it about 20 times to see if it gets easier. Does yours have a grease fitting? Another thing you can do... the next you pull the boat out... close the handle, remove the hose and spray some penetrating fluid (like PB Blaster) in there, or even silicone spray. Let it sit for a day or two and then go ahead and exercise the handle again.

Now, if it's hard to "reach", that's a different story. Possibly something like this would help: https://thmarinesupplies.com/collections/plumbing-drain/products/seacock-remote-operation-arm

I've also seen (although never used) remote seacock arms that are powered by a motor. I don't know much about them and the obvious question that arises would be "What if the motor fails and I need to close the seacock". Good question... I don't have the answer to that one! But I'm sure I'm not the first person to think of that and maybe they are made such that if they fail, they fail "closed".

 

[FootballFan]

I have a piece of threaded pipe, probably 2 inches in diameter, 12 inches long. Fits the size of my handles well. On the end I have a standard T fitting. I can either use it as a straight handle extension or by putting the right angle of the t fitting on, I can use it at a 90 degree angle.

I am sure it would be possible to build a cheater pipe that enable a person to exert enough force to "break" the handle on the boat fitting, so I use with caution.

 

[Skybolt]

The one on my current boat requires super human strength. I stand on lever to close it, don’t remember my previous boats being this hard. Anything I can do when it’s out this winter to make it easier?

Yes, have it replaced. You could break it off and then where would you be? The older SR's have seacock's that have a t-handle that tightens and loosens them to even be able to move them. I thought the 91's also that this?

 

[mrsrobinson]

Mine are easy enough to open and close, just looking for a solution for when I need to close/open them and don't want to crawl back there to do it.

 

[Pirate Lady]

Yes, have it replaced. You could break it off and then where would you be? The older SR's have seacock's that have a t-handle that tightens and loosens them to even be able to move them. I thought the 91's also that this?

Mine is a single yellow handle. Vertical open, 90 deg down closed. Boat getting pulled Tuesday to replace leaking outdrive seal, going to tell the shop to see what they can do to fix it. It’s only money.

 

[Skybolt]

Mine is a single yellow handle. Vertical open, 90 deg down closed. Boat getting pulled Tuesday to replace leaking outdrive seal, going to tell the shop to see what they can do to fix it. It’s only money.

It's only money that can stop you from springing a gig leak if that valve breaks. Those things can't be fixed, it's the inside rubber that swells and makes it hard to move. Rarely is it the brass/bronze shaft that freezes. Good Luck.

 

[The Bill Collector]

I have a piece of threaded pipe, probably 2 inches in diameter, 12 inches long. Fits the size of my handles well. On the end I have a standard T fitting. I can either use it as a straight handle extension or by putting the right angle of the t fitting on, I can use it at a 90 degree angle.

I am sure it would be possible to build a cheater pipe that enable a person to exert enough force to "break" the handle on the boat fitting, so I use with caution.

+1 I went to HD and bought a piece of threaded pipe, but as stated be careful...

 

[Pirate Lady]

It's only money that can stop you from springing a gig leak if that valve breaks. Those things can't be fixed, it's the inside rubber that swells and makes it hard to move. Rarely is it the brass/bronze shaft that freezes. Good Luck.

Thx, it’s for the macerator which very rarely gets open, but ya, don’t want it breaking.

 

[FootballFan]

I agree with several of the above comments. The cheater bar is applicable if it is very difficult to reach and just a pain to get your hand on it. My port side is located under a battery box (great design, yeah right).

If you are dealing with a valve that just doesn't want to open - replace it. Sometimes you can exercise and get them to move freely - sometimes not. If you can't get it moving easily - replace.

 

[hughespat57]

Thx, it’s for the macerator which very rarely gets open, but ya, don’t want it breaking.

In that case I would pump out the tank and refill with fresh water and go somewhere you can pump the whole tank out thru that line before the mechanic dumps that Sh*t into your bilge.

 

[Tripsdad]

Mine were pretty much locked open noir to mention hard to reach and get any leverage. I had all my seacocks changed last winter and they found corrosion on 2 of the thru hulls so those were changed as well.

Before they were replaced I did something similar to @FootballFan but with PVC as I figured it would break before the seacocks.

 

[Pirate Lady]

In that case I would pump out the tank and refill with fresh water and go somewhere you can pump the whole tank out thru that line before the mechanic dumps that Sh*t into your bilge.

It’s a porta potti with macerator, no holding tank. Not a problem.

 

[dtfeld]

Mine are easy enough to open and close, just looking for a solution for when I need to close/open them and don't want to crawl back there to do it.

They make electric motorized seacocks drivers...but roughly $1500 each. I'm not sure if your opening/closing each time, but if the hoses/clamps are in good condition, I think most of us leave them open.