Salt to Fresh water

jeffboat

New Member
Nov 20, 2008
6
STL
I am looking to purchase a used 2005 Sea Ray. I am currently having it surveyed and will run a sea trial with it next week.
I am getting a really good deal on this boat which has spent most of its years in salt water.
My plan is to clean her up and bring it to the midwest and enjoy in fresh water.
Sea Rays are known as great boats, but the raw water intake from salt to fresh gives me some concern.
If anyone can give me advise or experience into the wisdom of such a move, or what to look out for it would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
 
There are _so_ many fresh water options out there, why not go that direction and not worry about it?

Mike
 
Options I have, but really looking for any first hand expertise with this type of salt to fresh water situation.
thank you for your reply.
 
I don't know the SR/Mercruiser engine options for that boat, but do the engines have a closed cooling system (usually referred to as fresh-water cooled) ? If they don't, I'd pass on this boat and find another with closed cooling.

The engine risers are probably raw- water cooled, which means that they have a shorter life span in salt water vs. fresh. On a 2005 boat you should still be fine with them for another 2-3 years.

The biggest area of concern for me would be the outdrives- was the boat wet-slipped or kept in a dry-stack? An I/O boat wet-slipped in saltwater for a few years could have corrosion problems. Be sure to review the owner's maintenance records, and your surveyor can inspect the drives for any issues.

Other than the I/O issue, boats (at least the well-made ones) are designed to be in saltwater. Don't sweat it...
 
Thank you, I am having a certified Merc-mechanic pull the outdrives and inspect.
I don't believe there is any history on this boat, so i don't know much. There looks to be one thin flaking layer of bottom paint, so it may have been stored in water. It has twin 350's Mags. I am having the surevyor do a compression check and sea trial. His visual says there is no signs of leakage or corrosion around the engine or exhaust risers.
I appreciate your comment regard salt water design.
 
Risers and manifolds are considered service items for salt water boats. They are easily replacable. the real money question is how much residual damage and corrosion has been done to the engine blocks by the previous owners treatment. Have the engine surveyor remove t he drain cocks on the engine block skirts and probe the cooling cavity with a bent wire. If there is significant corrosion damage, the hook on th e wire will have rusty sludge in it.

Other places to look are the timing cover behind the water pump. If it is metal and rusty it indicates lots of salt water exposure. That area can't be spray painted when the motor is assembled so rust will show up there.

I ran a sea water cooled inboard boat for 10 years and 700 hours and the engines were fine when I sold it. MY guess is that a 290SLX would have been lift or dry stacked, that it was probably flushed........and that you won't have any significant issues with corrosion as long as the drives are OK and you do the type survey you seem to be comtemplating.
 
thank you Frank,
Great advice and I will inspect these issues.
regarding the bottom paint, why? should I recoat or remove and is that an epoxy?
JB
 
If they didn't etch the gelcoat before the original bottom paint was applied it will peel. You need to remove the existing bottom paint, etch the gelcoat and apply the new bottom paint. It will cost extra to remove the existing and etch but you need to do this.
 
If they didn't etch the gelcoat before the original bottom paint was applied it will peel. You need to remove the existing bottom paint, etch the gelcoat and apply the new bottom paint. It will cost extra to remove the existing and etch but you need to do this.

This thread is over a year old so I don't understand the relavence of this posting, :smt017:smt017
 

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