rusted manifold bolts?

[DMon]

Ok. I'll get the OEM Merc parts. I heard that using grade 8 bolts for the manifolds instead of the standard grade 5 is the way to go.
Also, I was told I may want to replace the starter now because it's so tough to get to. It looks fine. Not very rusty - for whatever that's worth. New one is about $300 bucks but don't want to have to deal with this problem later. If I replace it is there a way to test it to make sure it is working before putting everything back on? Or should I just bolt on and put it all back together again?
Thoughts on both grade 8 bolts and starter?

 

[rondds]

Dmon
i dont know what boat you have and engine position (vdrive/inboard/twin/single/outdrive) but the starter should NOT be difficult to get to on a 7.4L. it's two bolts and it slides right out - more importantly, those two bolts are not subject to the superheated metallic fusing you get with manifold bolts. $300 is pricey for a new one. you should be able to find one for <$200. i bought mine off the shelf from west marine - it's a sierra -i know this contradicts what i said regarding original merc manifolds and risers but i was in a pinch - it died on a saturday and i was leaving on a week-long cruise on monday - so i couldnt be picky. you can also get these from a napa dealer - they sell a complete line of merc replacement parts. i havent had a problem since (two full seasons).

i dont think its as imperative that a starter needs to be original. it's a simple electric motor that doesnt have super-precise fit or quality of casting materials issues. you could also pull it and have it rebuilt by a local marine starter/alternator place for around $179. when i replaced the port engine starter with the sierra, i took the orig to a guy who rebuilt it, then i used the rebuilt one to preventatively replace the stbd - thinking is if one goes, the other is probably not far behind.

i cant comment on bolt quality - i'm unfamiliar with #5 and #8 differences.

 

[douglee25]

The only difference between grade 5 and grade 8 is the tensile strength. Grade 5 should be sufficient but if you feel better about grade 8, go for it. You won't be torquing the crap out of the bolts. Probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 25 - 35 ft. lbs.

Doug

 

[Gunn]

i dont think its as imperative that a starter needs to be original. it's a simple electric motor that doesnt have super-precise fit or quality of casting materials issues. you could also pull it and

Now IMO, I would think the opposite. If a starter fails while out in open water, you're done. So I would look for quality there; and they can be made cheaply. On the other hand, a manifold is a pretty basic device; albeit the ceramic coating is a benefit.

I have a rebuilt automotive engine with an Edelbrock manifold....no one I know would ever replace a manifold with OEM in that case!! In many/most cases, aftermarket can be made to perform better, last longer, and cost less....

 

[rondds]

sierra and napa are marine grade starters (not converted automotive stuff). and if a starter takes a dump it wont cause catastrophic engine failure. you just call tow-boatUS and come back in on their dime :thumbsup:.

so far all's well with my west marine special and i have a spare OEM from the stbd engine JUST IN CASE!

 

[Salty Dog - LI]

DMon,

Another saying- "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

You don't need to relace a properly working starter! It isn't hard to get it out!

 

[DMon]

Thanks again for everyone's input. I'll use it as I put it all back together. Thanks.