Rudder issues w/ 94 370 ec

[Promises]

We have a '94 370EC which we have had for 2 seasons, great boat but lacking rudder authority at slow speeds and when docking. Has anyone out there any experience with rudder extensions? How do i go about checking this out? the boat does not have power steering.

 

[rondds]

Promises:
Welcome to the world of gas powered Searays. I've never heard of anyone with rudder extensions in the years I've been hanging around these message boards. But I have very often heard of (and lived) your complaint. In reply to your post, what you're likely to hear from the group is what you have probably already figured out on your own by trial and error. Rudders are basically useless in close-quarters maneuvering. You need transmissions and judicious use of throttle, or repower with diesel!

BTW, you don't have power steering but you should have hydraulic steering, which is just as good.

 

[carterchapman]

Promises:
Welcome to the world of gas powered Searays. I've never heard of anyone with rudder extensions in the years I've been hanging around these message boards. But I have very often heard of (and lived) your complaint. In reply to your post, what you're likely to hear from the group is what you have probably already figured out on your own by trial and error. Rudders are basically useless in close-quarters maneuvering. You need transmissions and judicious use of throttle, or repower with diesel!

BTW, you don't have power steering but you do have hydraulic steering, which is just as good.

I'm with you Dr. Ron - don't use your rudders at low speeds when maneuvering or docking - it's all transmissions and occasional throttles...

 

[fwebster]

The problem isn't so much rudder size as it is small props. Water moving over the rudder or in opposing directions is what turns the boat. Increasing rudder size will help some, but there is a trade off in increased drag. What you gain around the dock, you will lose at cruise speeds and in getting to cruise speeds.

As Ron says, the best option here is to learn to use the throttles in close quarter maneuvering and , if you ever have to replace the props, do it with 4-bladed ones which will allow you to move more water at low speeds.

 

[Larry&Leisa]

Welcome to the forum! Good to see another '94 370EC :thumbsup:

This is the second season with ours as well. As the more experienced have said, I find myself using more and more throttle for control. It used to be more transmission usage but as I have gotten comfortable with boat/ throttle response I'm not afraid to power around the marina now. Steering coming back to dock is only used about a quarter mile out to make sure they are set straight, then it's engines and tranmissions.

 

[johngus]

thats why the boat has twins.use the engines,a little throttle will amaze you to turn the boat

 

[Skuza]

As all have said. Use the throttles to gain authority. Other than a diesel that's the only thing you can do. You have to get a feel for your throttles and it will become second nature. Good luck!

 

[Riptide III]

I agree with all. Leave the rudders straight and its all gears. I would stay away from the throttles as much as possible remembering that the prop spinning in reverse is less efficient that the one spinning forward and may require a touch of throttle. However, I am not following the theory behind "unless you have a diesel." assuming you mean the diesel has bigger props, a boats' ability to turn using a rudder is predicated upon it having flow across the rudder. the max flow you are going to get past a rudder in reverse is predicated upon your speed over ground. Unlike in forward where you have a thrust / flow from the props over it. That being said I dont think it matters if you are swinging an eight foot prop.
I may not have a clue but I do know this. "NEVER APPROACH A DOCK OR BOAT ANY FASTER THAN YOU ARE WILLING TO HIT IT." Engines fail at the worst time. Usually when you are shifting them into reverse or forward to stop.

 

[Skuza]

My reasoning in the diesel reference is method for slow speed handling of a twin boat. You DONT use the rudder which yes wouldn't be effective regardless of propulsion. Diesels usually have larger props and more torque which moves more water. When using only forward and reverse for slow speed maneuvering this is where the advantage would be diesel. Now if your referring to twin I/O's thats a different animal in that your controlling a rudder with attached thrust. Thats something I have no experience in handling.

 

[sbw1]

I've put hundreds of hours on a boat just like yours. The props are small and close together so it is slow to respond. You just need to learn how it handles. My slip gets a west wind right on the beam. 25 knots was about the max crosswind I would accept for going out and returning. I would come in on the hot side and then shift into neutral and steer with the wheel (mechainical not hydraulic). Sometimes I would crab it into the wind if need be with a shift into the down wind motor to minimize sideway drift. When the boat was halfway into the slip I shifted briefly into reverse and gave a small blip of power and then returned to neutral. In less windy conditions I shifted to neutral well in advance of coming into the slip and let it coast while steering with the wheel and then went to reverse to stop. In low wind conditions it would handle pretty much a conventional twin. The other problem with this boat is has a relatively long foredeck that can act like a sail. My advice would be to learn to use what you have starting with low wind conditions and moving on up when you become profecient. The first few times can be a little tricky but it become second nature with practice.

 

[PlayDate]

We have the same boat. The rudders have very little effect at 600-650 rpm. Using the transmissions and light throttle is the only way to move the boat around the dock. Trust me, it can be frustrating when there is wind and cross-currents but it is workable. The combination of the smaller props (it came with 3 blade, 17x16s), prop pockets, short distance between the props, shallow draft and small rudders adds up to a boat that is not the easiest boat to handle around a dock.

I have a bulkhead slip (with electrical power on the port side) which requires backing the boat out with the starboard transmission engaged (reverse) and the rudder at 30 degrees to port (it does help kick the stern out). When the bow clears the slip and the stern is far enough in the fairway, I set the rudders a mid-ship and engage the port transmission (forward) to rotate the boat about 200 degrees to get the bow clear of the bulkhead and pointed down the fairway.

Coming home is easier. As I enter the fairway, the rudders are at mid-ship and the engines are at 600 rpms. I use the transmissions to manage the boat and turn it into the slip.

I've owned the boat for 10 years, so I'm used to it. I got remarried a couple of years ago and my wife (who has been around smaller boats most of her life) wanted to be able to use it with her friends (scary). I ended up putting a bow thruster on it two years ago to solve the dock handling issue. It made a huge difference (and probably paid for itself in avoiding fiberglass work and another divorce!).

It is a great boat and easy to work on. Plenty of ER room and fun to own.

-John

 

[Captain Allen]

Same boat here and I agree with the use of clutches and throttles only for control around the docks. With small props in prop pockets, and the props close together, you don't move much water at low rpm's. Nice to see the other '94 370 owners on here.