pmartin1501
New Member
Just thought I would post an update on the installation.
All in all, successful project!
Notes: (From a shade-tree mechanic...barely)
1.) The 340DA has just enough room to maneuver the heavy parts and operate. Some very uncomfortable positions, but it is doable if you can take a bit of pain. I could not imagine this job in a bilge smaller than the 340.
2.) The guide pins are an absolute requirement IMO. I was able to hold the manifold and gasket in place with one hand and thread each manifold bolt with the other fairly easily. I would not ever attempt this job without them.
3.) Kneepads and a good headlamp are your friends.
4.) Pre-treat all bolts with PBblaster a day or so before.
5.) You will make approximately 1 million trips to your toolbox regardless of how well you planned, sapping your energy. Enlist a tool fetcher.
6.) Be very careful when taking off manifolds and risers. There will be water, even when you think you drained them.
Rusty water will go everywhere you don't want it to go. There will be washers and nuts that escape your grasp, threatening to fall into the depths of the block. Go slow and methodical. I used one of those magnet trays to keep all nuts and bolts in one place for each section of the project.
7.) While I had the manifolds off I also changed my engine oil coolers. I learned the expensive way what happens when a trans oil cooler fails. Not going to let that happen to the engine oil coolers.
8.) When scraping / sanding the engine block gasket surface, very carefully I put some paper shop towels in each port to prevent any debris from getting in. Just remember to take out the shop towels! With everything going on you'd be surprised how easy it is to forget. At 2am one morning during the project I woke up wondering if I removed all of them. ( Yes,I did
)
9.) When you think you're done, review every bolt and hose clamp for torque and every hose for connection. I forgot to tighten 1 clamp on a manifold water feed hose and it popped off during first test sending a few gallons of water into the bilge. (dumbass mistake, but easily fixed with no damage)
10.) It is a lot of work! I'm a DIY'er so I'm very accepting that it will take me 5x longer to accomplish a DIY job than a PRO. I did a little bit each day, very slowly, over the course of about 10 days. Could have been faster, but there's always something else getting in the way of time. I learned a lot, got up close and personal with my engines and saved a lot of $ also, but at the expense of time, sweat and some blood. (damn those hose clamps!) If you don't have the time or patience, hire a professional.
Thanks for the advice shared on this thread.
Best of luck for those attempting. If you are handy, you can do it.
All in all, successful project!
Notes: (From a shade-tree mechanic...barely)
1.) The 340DA has just enough room to maneuver the heavy parts and operate. Some very uncomfortable positions, but it is doable if you can take a bit of pain. I could not imagine this job in a bilge smaller than the 340.
2.) The guide pins are an absolute requirement IMO. I was able to hold the manifold and gasket in place with one hand and thread each manifold bolt with the other fairly easily. I would not ever attempt this job without them.
3.) Kneepads and a good headlamp are your friends.
4.) Pre-treat all bolts with PBblaster a day or so before.
5.) You will make approximately 1 million trips to your toolbox regardless of how well you planned, sapping your energy. Enlist a tool fetcher.
6.) Be very careful when taking off manifolds and risers. There will be water, even when you think you drained them.
Rusty water will go everywhere you don't want it to go. There will be washers and nuts that escape your grasp, threatening to fall into the depths of the block. Go slow and methodical. I used one of those magnet trays to keep all nuts and bolts in one place for each section of the project.
7.) While I had the manifolds off I also changed my engine oil coolers. I learned the expensive way what happens when a trans oil cooler fails. Not going to let that happen to the engine oil coolers.
8.) When scraping / sanding the engine block gasket surface, very carefully I put some paper shop towels in each port to prevent any debris from getting in. Just remember to take out the shop towels! With everything going on you'd be surprised how easy it is to forget. At 2am one morning during the project I woke up wondering if I removed all of them. ( Yes,I did
)9.) When you think you're done, review every bolt and hose clamp for torque and every hose for connection. I forgot to tighten 1 clamp on a manifold water feed hose and it popped off during first test sending a few gallons of water into the bilge. (dumbass mistake, but easily fixed with no damage)
10.) It is a lot of work! I'm a DIY'er so I'm very accepting that it will take me 5x longer to accomplish a DIY job than a PRO. I did a little bit each day, very slowly, over the course of about 10 days. Could have been faster, but there's always something else getting in the way of time. I learned a lot, got up close and personal with my engines and saved a lot of $ also, but at the expense of time, sweat and some blood. (damn those hose clamps!) If you don't have the time or patience, hire a professional.
Thanks for the advice shared on this thread.
Best of luck for those attempting. If you are handy, you can do it.
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