Right elbow hurts – rotary buffer

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Well-Known Member
TECHNICAL Contributor
Oct 3, 2006
4,404
Wisconsin - Winnebago Pool chain of lakes
Boat Info
280 Sundancer, Westerbeke MPV generator
Engines
twin 5.0's w/BIII drives
This is my first year using a rotary tool. In the past I used a random orbital.

I picked up this tool from Harbor Freight for $35 and a couple of wool bonnets, about $8 each.
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It took a bit to get the Velcro backed bonnet properly centered on the tool but once that was done the tool is very smooth and only slightly heavier then the random orbital I have used in the past.

On the wool pad I’m using McGuire’s #49 oxidation remover
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After washing the boat I went to work with the new rotary tool, wool bonnet and oxidation remover. Once I work the stuff in and its reasonably dry I wipe it off with a terry cloth towel.

I’m about ½ done and man does my right elbow hurt.

For sure it’s doing a better job than the random orbital I used in the past. I’m keeping the speed relatively slow, not past III on the dial.

If you use a similar setup, does your right elbow get so sore? I’m trying to figure out if I’m doing something wrong. Any tips?

My right wrist and shoulder are also sore but only mildly sore and about what I would expect. A couple of Motrin took care of that pain.

My plan is to follow this up with Flagship Premium Marine Wax using a foam backed pad with a microfiber applicator on the same tool or I may go back to the random orbital for the waxing.

I had considered going with the three step process, oxidation remover/polish/wax but I already have this Flagship Premium Marine Wax product and my right elbow will for sure not take a third pass on everything.
 
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Oh, the yard moved me outside as I requested a couple of days ago and has my boat blocked in the yard.

As I was working on the boat another slip renter whose boat is blocked next to mine came by to check on his boat.

We talked for a bit and he said he will be returning this Sunday to sand his bottom paint.
So my goal is to get finished today and have them launch my boat before this bottom pain sanding starts.

Even if I need to treat the canvas and do some other stuff in the slip I don’t want my nice clean boat all covered in black bottom paint that tends to become sticky once the black bottom paint dust lands on a clean white hull then goes thru the moist process of morning dew.
 
I worked at a large detail shop for years and I had to be careful of my back using the dewalt rotary.I never had a problem with my elbow though.

When you put the pad on here is a trick to centering it.Lay the pad down and then put the machine on to of it lightly.As you are pressing it down on the pad rotate the machine around the perimeter of the pad.It will take a few times to get the pressure right but it will self center.

I've used that little $40 HF jobby.It works fine but lacks torque when needed.Well worth the money though.
 
Doug.... I own just about every buffer known to man. Back in the day I polished everything I owned.....car, boat, lawnmower :lol:...just liked to take care of the things I worked hard for.
I'm 53 now & my shoulders are shot. I just buff a little less & take motrin a little more :thumbsup:

I lay my pads face down & center the backing plate to the outside of the pad. I've found that the velcro on the pads are not always centered. Do it a few times & you won't even think about anymore.

I trailer my boat so this is a bit easier for me than you...but after I polish an area in the shade I move the boat out into the sun. That will show you how good of a job you're doing.

As for the final wax sometimes I'll use a random orbit with a finish pad but more often than not I find it just as easy to apply by hand. At this point you're through prepping the surface and all you want is to get the protectant (wax) on evenly. Don't forget the pics.......
 
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Once you have the shine the way you want it from compounding, wipe on the Flagship by hand using an applicator pad. No rubbing is necessary and it will go a lot faster by hand than with a machine and be easier on your body. And use as little of the Flagship as possible because applying it thickly does not do anything but waste material.

Dave
 
I have the same buffer, I'm pooped & sore after using it..
I feel like a Popeye when I'm done with it. :smt043
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How old are ya.... Answer. Ha!
I'm 33 and am beat when I'm done so don't feel bad!
Ya get that boat OUT BEFORE he starts sanding. All that pain will be for nothing if that s#it gets on your boat!
In the end sit back and enjoy the fruits of your hard labor. A rotary buffer, although lots of work, produces the best results hand down!
 
Doug
I have about 6 hours from last weekend getting the foredeck and the starboard area above the rub rail from the windshield to the bow done. I also did a test area below the rubrail to see what steps I wanted to do. I used Meguiar's 67 on the Makita rotary. I bought the Harbor Freight rotary a couple years ago and it dies in 3 hours (POS). I then bought a Makita 9227C from a friend and it's great.
p84809z.jpg

then switched to the PC7424 and used Starbrite Premium Marine Polish w/PTEF.
I was very happy with the results. I will hopefully tackle another section this weekend.
These pictures are taken straight on.
Side section below the rubrail: before
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Side section below the rubrail: after
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I use nothing but a Makita 9227C and it is very old but extremely reliable. Been rubbing out paint jobs on classic cars for years and can get a pretty good shine on just about anything as well. On my boat and tbirds I currently have, I use 3M Finesse it II on 100% Natural wool bonnets. I have tried synthetic wool but they are junk. Foam works well too but it is harder to clean between polish applications.

To get a good polish no matter what kind of buffing compound you use, try just a bit of compound as seen on the photo. DO NOT go too far past the center. Leave the outside free of compound.
IMG_0264.JPG


I deburr the wool bonnet after each 2x2 section I polish using a screw driver or other sharp object. Hard to do that on foam pads but you could use a clothes bristle brush that seems to work OK if you are set on using foam pads. Egg crate style foam pads are great for aggressive compounding and flat are great for finale polish or waxing.
Here is a photo of just using Finesse it II. I have not waxed this section yet but intend to use the rest of my 3M wax/polish and Flagship that I have.
IMG_0253a.JPG


There are three dings in the below photo I fixed using gel coat repair, 400, then 800 then 1200 wet dry spraying water every 4 or 5 swipes...
IMG_0254a.JPG


The reason NOT to apply polish to the outside edge of the pad is so that you can use the edge of the pad (wool or foam) to remove the dried compounding polish. Having compound out to the edge will not allow that and you will work longer and harder to get rid of the polish...
 
Doug, I don't understand what you're saying. :huh:

Please come out here and show me how its done. :grin: . :smt043 .
 
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What part of your elbow hurts? If I knew which part hurts I might be able to tell you the most likely mechanism causing the injury. With your hand down by your side turn your hand so the palm is facing the front (this is the anatomical position seen in the davinci drawing). With your hand facing front is the pain closest to the bony part of the elbow on (1) the same side as your thumb (2) the same side as your pinky or (3) the bony point on the back of the elbow? Or is it in some other spot?

John
 
I think I smell a law suit coming...

What part of your elbow hurts? If I knew which part hurts I might be able to tell you the most likely mechanism causing the injury. With your hand down by your side turn your hand so the palm is facing the front (this is the anatomical position seen in the davinci drawing). With your hand facing front is the pain closest to the bony part of the elbow on (1) the same side as your thumb (2) the same side as your pinky or (3) the bony point on the back of the elbow? Or is it in some other spot?

John

Gary,
Is it the malpractice suit when we're diagnosing polishing injuries online?
 
I’m launched!

Scott & Dave, you were right on.

We applied the flagship wax by hand with an applicator pad, no hard rubbing just wipe on, let it haze, wipe it off with a micro-fiber towel. It was fast and easy.

I used the rotary tool a lot more today. I discovered two things:

#1) Get higher on the ladder keeping the tool at bout eye level. Don’t lift the tool above my head.

#2) Use the right side of the pad more, slightly tilt the tool so the right side is making contact. This way the rotary motion helps keep the tool up rather then the tool pushing down, left or right.

I did far more work with the tool today yet my elbow is not soar like last night.

For much of today working on the boat was me, my wife, our oldest daughter who did a great job and a friend. So 4 of us were all going at it to get it done.

I still need to do some more stuff like treat the canvas with 303 fabric guard but I can do that in the slip.
 
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...... I bought the Harbor Freight rotary a couple years ago and it dies in 3 hours (POS)......

Todd,
Don’t drop it in the water! (I’m kidding)

I put about 8 hours on the $35 Harbor Freight Chicago rotary tool and so far so good. I admit it’s an economy tool so when it goes it goes. If it dies tomorrow I’m happy just to convince myself that an orbital is not as good as a rotary in my opinion.

I’m surprised how much stuff came in the box. Even spare brushes, a open end wrench, a Allen wrench, and a assortments of pads and a foam back plate that I did not use.
 
...100% Natural wool bonnets. I have tried synthetic wool but they are junk. Foam works well too but it is harder to clean between polish applications.......I deburr the wool bonnet after each 2x2 section I polish using a screw driver or other sharp object. ..

Thank you Doug.

I used a 7” 4 ply twisted 100% wool pad with a Velcro back, no ties. It was about $9-$10 ish, I don’t remember. Got this at Harbor Freight also. I tried to find it online at the HF website but I don't see it.

I ‘de-burred’ (I called it cleaning the pad) about 10 times total. I used the cheap thin open end wrench that came with the buffer. I turned the tool upside down and turned it on then as it rotated I’d push the wrench end into the pad working my way from the center to the edge. At the end of the job I tossed the pad.

I used a lot more oxidation remover per application then in your photo. It made a mess but sure did a great job.

How long do you use the same pad before you toss it?
 
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What part of your elbow hurts? If I knew which part hurts I might be able to tell you the most likely mechanism causing the injury. With your hand down by your side turn your hand so the palm is facing the front (this is the anatomical position seen in the davinci drawing). With your hand facing front is the pain closest to the bony part of the elbow on (1) the same side as your thumb (2) the same side as your pinky or (3) the bony point on the back of the elbow? Or is it in some other spot?

John

Hi John,

Thank you for your concern.

#2 & #3 and it was deep.

My elbow is in much less pain today even with using the tool far more.

I think the issue was due to me holding the tool above my head and letting the tool pull me around in different ways.

Today I learned to keep it lower, about eye level and to use the right side of the pad so some of the tools weight is gone via the pads rotation and the tool is not trying to walk or run to the right or left or down.

I did not find myself fighting the tool today. I also was at a lower RPM setting for much of the time, about 1 to 2 on the dial, only going to 3 at the end of each area as the stuff I had applied was getting dry.

With the orbital tool it just did not matter how I held the tool.

Again, thank you John.
 
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