Restoring teak

[Ka1oxd]

I cheated. I did not even sand as Jason states to start. I used borax powder cleaner and water. I never took the teak off the boat. It is not completed yet I just did enough to get the boat in the water. What I am going to do once the boat is out for the season, I am going to add a few more coats of just 75% varnish and 25% paint thinner. Once that hardens up, light sanding to get it all smooth and flat, then 100% varnish about 5 coats to finish. I want it thick! The cup holder is complete.

 

[nightdagger]

My wife just loves your cup holder. She says it looks better then new lol. Now I do have my work cutout cause if I cannot get my teak as nice as yours & Henry's she will make me redo it lol

Henry - how/what do I use to make a new instrument panel? Mine is currently some form of solid cardboard. Not sure how I get the gauges out or even get the panel out but it is not appealing at all. The closest place for me to get any teak boards or sheets is 3 hour drive. Are there any alternative to using teak that once stained and finished will last/look close? Or even something that will look really good and add o nice touch? There is no teak within 10ft. Of my instrument panel so you would not have anything to compare it to without actually walking from spot to spot if I can get something to look as good.

If there is no alternative then I will have to figure out how to get some teak.

Thanks

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[Henry Boyd]

Drill the bungs out.

Buy a plug cutter and some teak that matches yours. That will have to wait until the existing teak is stripped. Use some acetone on a rag and you will get a good idea of the unstained finish coloring.

The plug cutter will give you tapered plugs. Cut them so they sit proud of the base material. Once glued they can be sanded. I prefer to use a chisel to cut them down though. If you don't have experience with precise chisel work, just sand them down being careful not to scar the existing finished area. Once sanded you can finish the work area.

Done right the plugs ( or bungs) will be almost invisible. There are a couple on the table top I posted earlier, can you find them?

Henry

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[Ka1oxd]

This is how I got the plugs out. I used a spring loaded prick punch, got it close to center, then made a punch. Then I used my power screwdriver and a deck screw. It just pushed it up by itself. BTW that is the cup holder before I redid it.

 

[Pyrojodge]

Here are some pics of my teak on Aftica!

http://clubsearay.com/album.php?albumid=984

I did the work 5 years ago and took the pictures this year. Still looks like the day I finished it... good luck with your project.

 

[nightdagger]

Lol nope I though the table was teak slats either doweled or biscuit joined. Would of never known there were bungs in there.

I just love looking at all the nice work you have done. My father was a cabinet maker and even had is own custom finishing shop when I was young. I learnt a lot over the years but mechanics is my speciality being a licensed diesel (volkwagon) and gas (GM) mechanic. I took that experience and worked on the freighter ships on the great lakes (610 - 1000 ft cargo ships) until I injured my back badly and am now retired at the age of 32, unable to work again. I can not left much weight anymore have had knee surgery and need another soon.

My new hobby is woodworking, it is not physical demanding and at least makes me feel like I am useful.

I really appreciate all your time/help and I am learning a lot. Over the winter I want to have my boat looking pristine and I could not be accomplishing this without everyone advice and experience. This site is amazing and the members are people I wish I knew IRL.

Thanks again and keep the pictures coming it is an inspiration for me to have mine look as nice.

Steve

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[nightdagger]

Ka1oxd - thanks for the picture, tat is a good idea and probably safer for me so I do not mess up drilling. Hard to believe that is what the cupholder looked like wow. I sure hope I can get mine to look like everyone else's, going to be taking my time and doing it slow and right. Have you ad previous experience working on teak or just got advice and hit a home run first time?

Pyro - That is some nice work. How long did it take to do it all? And how did you get the corner molding off without breaking it? Was that your first time working on teak?

Loving the pictures


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[Henry Boyd]

Steve,
The table was made with mahogany boards with rock maple dividers as a visual play on teak and holly. The boards were joined with the strips and then planed. I used a Domino biscuit cutter to join the boards for the center field. The end pieces are a mortise and tenon construction, a breadboard joint. There are plugs in the top because I used Honduran mahogany that has very good color, but tends to be buggy in wider widths. I used an 18" wide board for the center field parts to ensure the best color and grain match. Big old tree equals a few bug tunnels.


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[Pyrojodge]

I have tried several different things with teak. Oil and what have you. I came up with my process and couldn't be happier. I use a cordless drill and take great care on not putting them back on to tight. Be very very very careful not to torque them.

 

[nightdagger]

Unfortunately it is raining today. I was excited to work on my teak and did not get much sleep lol.

Hopefully the rain let's up a bit later. Sure wish I left my camper top on instead of the tonneau cover.

Tomorrow is suppose to be nice so after golfing I will definitely have the boat stripped of its wood and ready to et down to business.

When I first started stripping the teak I used 120 grit sand paper on a and block. It took the old varnish and such off fairly well but was informed by my dad that I have to use a chemical in order to "bring the oil out" so when I et to good wood it is even? Does this make sense? I was trying to avoid chemical but I also want this done right so should I be using something to help strip the wood or is sanding it alright?

Thanks,

Steve

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[25thmustang]

Not a Sea Ray, but my process.

Before:

Right into it with the sander:

Sanded:

Acetone wiped:

Coated with Smiths CPES. Similar to West Epoxy:

Begin varnish:

Checking how smooth it is with the lighting:

Back together:

All the exterior teak was done this way with a good 8-10 coats of varnish. So far one season it still looks the same. The flybridge steps have not had issues with being slick, knock on wood.

 

[nightdagger]

Wow, just awesome. Tomorrow is going to be an exciting day. Your steps look amazing, just beautiful. Nice work

 

[nightdagger]

Am getting supplies tomorrow but can not find west system around here. Is it in Canadian stores? If not what is in Ontario, Canada that is equivalent?

Thanks

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[25thmustang]

West System should be at any good sized boat store. It can be ordered but that may take time.

 

[moparlvr4406]

I used Watco teak oil and a bit of elbow grease and this was the result...I'm not into the shiny look

 

[nightdagger]

Lol now my wife is on the fence. I have to spend all the time to strip ALOT of teak, put the varnish on one and just oil the other so she can see them both and then restrip the one she don't want...... Sucks but what else do I have to do lol.

I got 90% of the teak off the boat today and man s there a lot. I have now built myself a woodshop in our basement, figure if I am going to do this inside I want a shop lol. Going to also do my dads boat this winter.

I was at all my local boat shop and all they have is this http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1687
Can I use it and get the same results? I have the acetone for cleaning, foam brushes, a ton of sandpaper, tung oil but am stumped on this product.

I have also noticed that I have 2 pieces of teak with a few cracks and 1 that has a splinter of wood missing. How can I fix this? I have always either bought filled or used the sawdust and carpenters glue to fill it nice. What method is used with teak to achieve the best look?

Love the pictures, I will be working on mine in next few days and will post updated pictures of before, stripped & cleaned.

Oh yeah my swim platform seems to be coming apart, only in 1 soot where my ladder is fastened to. How do I reinforce this? I will post pictures of it tomorrow if needed.

Thanks

Steve

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