Replacing Hubs

[unlvrebel]

OK all, rookie question here.

I have a 2005 Magic Tilt trailer. I am looking for replacement bearings or more likely, replacement hubs. Lots of corrosion. There are generic kits out there for a 1 3/8" to 1 1/16" spindle, but nothing that I can find that is specific to Magic Tilt. Product manufacturers such as CE Smith and Tiedown. Will these work for a Magic Tilt trailer? Are these pretty universal as long as you know what size axle you are running?

Which leads me to my next question - I purchased a set of CE Smith bearings to redo one axle. The smaller race went in fine. The larger race was approximately .030" larger than the one that was removed. My dad and I worked at it for a little while. He's a machine mechanic (30+ years as an Operating Engineer) and his opinion is that .030" is TOO BIG of a difference. Could this just be an error on this particular one? I am returning it today for a different one.

Any help would be apprecated.

Thanks!

 

[1stSeaRay]

Have you tried calling magic tilt?

I just ordered bearing and brakes (everything from the backing plate to the shoes) from the manufacturer of my my 96 trailrite trailer. I was a afraid of the exact problem you are having (slight difference in size of the replacements parts)

That said the prices were comparable to what I would have paid at trailerpartsdepot or similiar and I KNOW the parts are going to fit.

 

[unlvrebel]

SO a special thanks to all those who helped me out. I spoke to Mike over at The Trailer Parts Depot and found out that hubs are indeed generally universal. I ordered twp sets of Kodiak e-coated hubs and calipers to do both axels. At a little over $100 per wheel, it seemed well worth while.

 

[chuck1]

John,

What trailer did you have, and do you know the part numbers for the hubs and calipers? Sounds like a good deal. What type of axles do you have on your trailer?

Chuck.

 

[ChuckW]

Trailer parts (hubs, spindles, axles, bearings) all come from a small set of suppliers. All the trailer manufacturers buy from them. As you noticed, Kodiak, Tie-Down, they are all readily available parts suppliers servicing parts stores and the trailer makers. You just need to find out which brand is on your trailer and you can get the parts just about anywhere.

Mine is built by Road King, has all Tie-Down parts on it. I carry 2 spare hubs all made up with rotors, spindles and bearings. Ready to swap out in a moments notice on the hi-way when needed. I've done it once in the last 2 years. Put about 15k per year on the trailer hauling from MA to FL and back.:smt021.

Of course I'm sure there is some brand out there that is an exception, but the common trailer names are all buying from the same pool of suppliers.

 

[unlvrebel]

John,

What trailer did you have, and do you know the part numbers for the hubs and calipers? Sounds like a good deal. What type of axles do you have on your trailer?

Chuck.

Chuck,

• I have a 2005 Magic Tilt trailer.
• Axels - torsion bar with trailing arms that have an integrated spindle.
• Spindles - 1 1/16 by 1 3/8 tapered.
• Hub - integrated hub and rotor.

Here is the link to what I purchased. You will notice that the price is $284.86 for the pair. That is the "List Price". If you select a quantity to purchase, the lower price will be reflected in your shopping cart. Also, if you just go to the site and select "Brake Disk Hydraulic"|"Trailer Disc Break Assemblies" you'll get their whole selection. I chose the Kodiak 10" E-coat pair - D210EK. Seemed pretty cost effective. I was charged $47.35 for S&H. All in it works to $474.63 or $118.66 per wheel. I was quoted $300+ per axel at my friendly neighborhood trailer repair shop. That did not include install...

My original setup was manufactured by Tie Down. But as was noted by Chuck W, and confirmed by my conversations, these are interchangable. Which one's are better? No idea. I went with the Kodiak because the standard replacement for Tie Down didn't have any kind of protective coating on them.

I still have three "functioning" hubs and calipers. I am going to pull them, clean them up and use them for spares. As Chuck W said, should be nice to just swap out the whole unit while on the road.

 

[unlvrebel]

One last thing Chuck. I've attached a couple of pics of my trailer for you to look at. As they say, a picture is worth a 1000 words...

 

[chuck1]

John,

Thanks for the info and pictures. Yep yours looks just like mine. (Except yours has been in more salt than mine.(Grin)) Great price on the complete setup. I just repacked all mine and orders a couple sets of bearings and seals. I was going to get a extra hub set, but the price was just too much at this time from Magic Tilt.

 

[chuck1]

John,

Just checked out the link. Does not look like it would work with my trailer since I have 6 lugs. I would have thought that your 220 and my 240 would have used the same trailer????

Chuck

 

[unlvrebel]

John,

Just checked out the link. Does not look like it would work with my trailer since I have 6 lugs. I would have thought that your 220 and my 240 would have used the same trailer????

Chuck

Same trailer... Maybe, maybe not. Trailers are determined individually or by the dealership. You have around 1,000# more boat than I do. Mine is five lugs. The Kodiak D212EK are $259 per set as opposed to $213 per set for the D210EK. A few bucks more... I would be the shipping would be the same so it looks like you would be adding $23 per wheel taking the total to about $141 per wheel. Not sure how that number compares to what you've seen...:huh:

For reference, I priced that trailing arm. The Trailer Parts Depot sourced it through Magic Tilt and priced it at $80. Yeesh. I'll be looking around for that one.

 

[chuck1]

Yep, Magic Tilt likes their products(Grin) I was talking with one of the reps back in January when I order the bearing and seals. He said Magic Tilt make a spare mount that includes the hub and everything for around $300+- if I remember correctly.

Found the email

The rotor by itself with the bearings and seal is part number
PG2027-1 $137.60. The mount assy with disc hub is PV1897 $157.50. You
should not have an issue with rust. This is what we equip all of our
tournament trailers with.

 

[unlvrebel]

Got around to installing one of the new Kodiak hub and caliper sets on Saturday. I had a few observations after receiving my merchandise -

• They sure looked pretty.
• The races were pre-seated.
• The instructions were virtually non-existent. There was an instruction booklet but it was really more of an FAQ and a "make sure you dry fit your new equipment".
• The calipers had two bleed screw valves.
• There was plenty of hardware. I even ended up getting a second set of slide bolts for each caliper in the package.
• They come stock with oil bath hubs. Another nice surprise, especially for the price. However, I opted for my existing bearing buddies.
• Calipers are loaded with ceramic brake pads.

The work effort was moderate. Would have been quicker with detailed instructions, but since the kit is designed for universal mounting on multiple trailers, your instructions may vary. Sorry for the lack of pictures. When I perform the service on the other hubs I will take plenty. There was a bit of a "hurricane" on Saturday and I just wanted to finish.

The kit comes with the hub (incl bearings and seals), caliper, mounitng plate and oil bath buddies. The mounting plate has a universal four bolt pattern and is held on via four bolts backed with nylon lock nuts. From here you install the hub (dry if oil bath, or grease as appropriate) and lock it down. Next slide the brake filled calipers over the rotor and secure to the mounting bracker with the slide bolts. Torque as appropriate. Bleeding the brakes was pretty straight forward. Open the higher of the two valves, attach brake fluid collection equipment to the valve and push in trailer tongue to actuate fluid. Rinse and repeat.

That was it. I'll collect artwork when I perform the task the next time.