Replacing Fuel Pump on 5.7L Mercruiser

alkisearay

New Member
Jun 3, 2010
109
Seattle, WA
Boat Info
1994 330 DA
Engines
5.7L V Drives
I'm about to replace the fuel pump on my 1994 5.7L this W/E, I've done it on auto's before and it has always been easy. However a friend did it on his 1995 5.7L and he said he had a lot of trouble because he had to hold the cam up to insert the lever on the pump? Anyone else have this problem? It is the stock manual (non-electric) version
 
So your's is a mechanical pump attached to the block...lower left side as viewing it? When I have changed these on GM cars (and it has been a long while), there was a threaded hole in the front of the block where you could insert a bolt and trap the piston/rod in the up position so that the pump would bolt right up. Then you removed this bolt from the block and it let the rod fall free and contact the pump lever. That's all I got. :smt001
 
Mine are similar to yours I pack the area with wheel bearing grease, push up the rod and put more grease in. It is the pnly why I have found to do it I have tried to do as the instuctions say by bending a flat thin plate in "L" to hold it up when you put in pump. If there is a set bolt that would be good I did not see one on my engines
 
Just changed mine on my CV-23. I held the rod up with the tip of my finger and had my wife bump the starter to turn the engine over till the rod was at it's fully retracted position in the block. The fuel pump spring is really stiff and you can't really compress it if the pump/cam rod is extended. The rod does not move that fast so you won't pinch your finger bumping the starter with the ignition key....pull coil wire but my pump failed so there was no gas. Also remove the fuel filter so you can see better to start the bolts and hook up the fuel lines. Not a big job but that pump rod is a pain to deal with, Mike.
 
Thanks for the help I installed it yesterday, used the pack-it with grease method. However it was hard for me to push it up with my finger so after alot of trials I found a needle nose plier with a 90 degree bend worked the best. Also found that one of the metal fuel lines had corroded thru and was the source of the few gas drips I had found under the engine so that takes alot off my mind also..
 

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