with Spring almost here I'm itching to get workin' on the boat. I'm thinking about pulling the outdrive upper & lower to have a look at the u joints...this seems pretty easy...just 6 nuts and a new gasket.....any advise ?
removing outdrive - alpha 1
- Thread starter Quint4
- Start date
H2ONUT
Well-Known Member
Make sure you shift into forward gear before removing the outdrive.
If you seperate the upper and lower, be careful of the o-ring on the drive shaft where it slips into the upper case, and there is a small o-ring where the two halves mate together, oil passage.
When putting it back together, make sure you maintain forward gear thru the entire assembly.
If you seperate the upper and lower, be careful of the o-ring on the drive shaft where it slips into the upper case, and there is a small o-ring where the two halves mate together, oil passage.
When putting it back together, make sure you maintain forward gear thru the entire assembly.
H2ONUT
Well-Known Member
EKM
Active Member
Its not a tough task unless the boot was leaking. I typically use a floor jack resting on a piece of plywood to support the OD. After all of the bolts are off, you can typically pull it straight out (while being supported for the floor jack). Inspect u joints and lube, change pump impeller, grease up splines in drive shaft (some newer boats have a grease fitting inside the boat to lube the drive shaft).
Upon reassembly, shift into forward and make sure the shift tab fits in the shoe (I also grease the tab). You typically have to turn the prop in forward to allow the drive shaft to turn until it mates with the engine coupler.
I typically apply silicone to the "o" ring...and always check its location prior to pushing it home.... :grin:
Upon reassembly, shift into forward and make sure the shift tab fits in the shoe (I also grease the tab). You typically have to turn the prop in forward to allow the drive shaft to turn until it mates with the engine coupler.
I typically apply silicone to the "o" ring...and always check its location prior to pushing it home.... :grin:
wish2fish
Active Member
I have a question.
What is the benefit of "looking" at the U-joints? If there were some problems wouldn't you be hearing it? While replacing the boots and lubing the bearing are all beneficial this seems like quite a task to take on if not necessary.
Quint, where in Ohio?
What is the benefit of "looking" at the U-joints? If there were some problems wouldn't you be hearing it? While replacing the boots and lubing the bearing are all beneficial this seems like quite a task to take on if not necessary.
Quint, where in Ohio?
Idealy, the outdrive should be pulled to check the engine alignment, grease the u-joints and check the condition of the gimbal bearing and the coupler. Like wise you can grease the drive spliines on the outdrive while you are at it. Checking the alignment will help avoid premature gimball bearing wear and keep your coupler from failing as well. Your service manuals usually specify this service to be performed after so many hours. I feel it's best to this work annually. Likewise I change the outdrive fluid annually as well just to make sure I have no water leaks (the fluid will be milky if you have water in it) and to keep the outdrive internals in top shape.
If you don't have an engine alignment tool, you will either need to buy one or have your dealer or mechanic do the work. I have always paid to have my outdrive pulled and the service that I described performed each and every year. The cost to do this has been less than a $100 and it has been well worth it. A good mechanic can do all this work I described in less than an hour.
If you don't have an engine alignment tool, you will either need to buy one or have your dealer or mechanic do the work. I have always paid to have my outdrive pulled and the service that I described performed each and every year. The cost to do this has been less than a $100 and it has been well worth it. A good mechanic can do all this work I described in less than an hour.
EKM
Active Member
My boat was previously on a lift and the last owner never pulled the ODs from what I could tell. This led to the engine coupler failure from lack of lubrication (grease)...required me to pull the engine. So, now I pull the ODs every two years for pump impellers and lubricantion of drive shift/u joints. Typically the u joint don't fail unless you have water intrusion. Gimbel bearings are the typical failure area. As for alignment, if the outdrive slides in and out easily, the engine is aligned. I have the alignment tool and it is typically used for aligning the gimbel bearing after replacement or engine alignment after the engine is pulled.
You can always watch someone to learn...but this is an easy DIY task. What ever you do, don't put screwdrivers in the mating flange area to open them up...you just move the OD up and down and it should slide out:thumbsup:
You can always watch someone to learn...but this is an easy DIY task. What ever you do, don't put screwdrivers in the mating flange area to open them up...you just move the OD up and down and it should slide out:thumbsup:
Ok...thanks for all the input...I had a great first season with the boat last year and want to do all preventive maintenance I can to have many more....it is 17 yrs old.....contemplating pulling the risers for a look also...runs fine / no overheating just wandering if I should inspect/replace gaskets....I've heard horror stories about breaking bolts so I don't know if I should leave well enough alone ( boat has always been fresh water ).
P.S. W2F - I am near Middletown....boat the Ohio river a few times a season around Cincy & Ripley.
P.S. W2F - I am near Middletown....boat the Ohio river a few times a season around Cincy & Ripley.
EKM
Active Member
On the riser front, my experience is salt water and they never last 17 years. I would ask others with fresh water experience but would not look unless you planning to replace. $500 gets you new manifolds and riser....so if you open it up, you might as well replace them. You should also replace the boots if you venture into it.
Good luck with your new boat....Ed
Good luck with your new boat....Ed
Most of the general recommendations I have heard are to pull the risers after the first five years if you boat in fresh water and every two years thereafter and inspect them.
Sundancer
Well-Known Member
- Jul 20, 2005
- 2,909
- Boat Info
- 34 year old CLASSIC 300 DA, towed almost anywhere behind the Duramax Dually Crew Cab.
- Engines
- 16 cyl, 700 cu. in./Alpha I's
I boat in freshwater and still have the original risers 20 years later. I don't know how long they will continue to work, but they seem fine? I have the urge to replace them, just because everyone does it periodically. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and throw on a new pair, but each year my mechanic gives it a good bill of health. :huh:
- Oct 4, 2006
- 2,335
- Boat Info
- 2003 280DA and 1995 Sea Ray 175
- Engines
- Twin 4.3l and 3.0l, all w/ AlphaI GenII drives
Good topic here, and glad to find some new nuggest of information and tips before I actually go at it. I too am getting ready to do this myself on a boat I bought last year, and don't have much knowledge of its maintenance history...
I had some leakage into the bilge area that I finally figured out on my last trip last season. It only happened when the drive was in the up position. So I need to change some bellows....probably all of them?
I also want to change the water pump and/or impeller. It seems that most of you change the impeller annually. Should I change the entire waterpump assembly? Over at Stem To Sterns, that totals about ~$60, which includes the "Water Pump Assembly" (part 22) for $43 plus the "Impeller" (part 28)for $17. But...they also list a "Rebuild Kit - Waterpump" for $99?? Not sure what to get; the rebuild kit, or the individual parts.
If anyone has never been to their site, it is great for finding the exat parts you need, even if then you go shop around and find it cheaper. Exploded view drawings, matched to part numbers and prices...
I have the Mercruiser service manual, a bunch of printouts from articles on doing it, and just ordered the Clymer manual too; just to cross reference everything. I'm a shadetree mechanic anyway, so hopefully this will be easy once I get inside and actually see it all in "3D". :smt001
Thanks,
Tom
[/url]
I had some leakage into the bilge area that I finally figured out on my last trip last season. It only happened when the drive was in the up position. So I need to change some bellows....probably all of them?
I also want to change the water pump and/or impeller. It seems that most of you change the impeller annually. Should I change the entire waterpump assembly? Over at Stem To Sterns, that totals about ~$60, which includes the "Water Pump Assembly" (part 22) for $43 plus the "Impeller" (part 28)for $17. But...they also list a "Rebuild Kit - Waterpump" for $99?? Not sure what to get; the rebuild kit, or the individual parts.
If anyone has never been to their site, it is great for finding the exat parts you need, even if then you go shop around and find it cheaper. Exploded view drawings, matched to part numbers and prices...
I have the Mercruiser service manual, a bunch of printouts from articles on doing it, and just ordered the Clymer manual too; just to cross reference everything. I'm a shadetree mechanic anyway, so hopefully this will be easy once I get inside and actually see it all in "3D". :smt001
Thanks,
Tom
[/url]
Here's something you might be interested in if you plan on pulling your own outdrive each season:
http://www.foreandaftmarine.com/UP-POD.htm
It's not very expensive and looks like it would be very helpful.
http://www.foreandaftmarine.com/UP-POD.htm
It's not very expensive and looks like it would be very helpful.
- Oct 4, 2006
- 2,335
- Boat Info
- 2003 280DA and 1995 Sea Ray 175
- Engines
- Twin 4.3l and 3.0l, all w/ AlphaI GenII drives
Very nice, thanks for the link. I was going to ask about how others work on theirs off the boat. I may just purchase that very soon.
