I need to remove the side bolster by long lounge seat on Passenger side. I was able to locate 3 nuts and washers by going thru a speaker opening. After removing these, it is still firm in the very forward and aft of the bolster. I removed the side of the area where the battery switch is located, no access there. Cant find a way to access the forward edge, or rear edge. Anybody ever remove this and can give me a little advise?
Removing Bolster 2000 270DA
- Thread starter crunch1
- Start date
There will be through bolts in both the aft end the foreward (aft facing) seatback. For the forward piece, you'll need to remove what is on the cabin side - often you need to remove a few other pieces, first - possibly the headliner. For the aft end, removing the midberth cabin should get you there - or cut a 6" hole under the aft cushion to access the nut and then cover the whole with a deck plate or cover plate.
Brite Idea
Active Member
- Nov 5, 2011
- 451
- Boat Info
- 2010 310 Sundancer
270 Sundancer 2000
- Engines
- twin 5.0 ECT Bravo III's
twin 4.3 TBI Merecrusier Alpha Gen II counter rotating drives
I did this job and it's not for the faint of heart. The interior of the cabin needs to be removed or you can cut an access hole adjacent to the left of the speaker. I redid my cockpit upholstery and elected to remove the interior to get to the bolts.
Here how it's done:
First remove the light cover over the entrance to the mid cabin there is a screw in there that holds the panel up. I don't remember how many screws hold it up but search around and remove any others.
Second the closet needs to come out
Third the port hole has to come out
fourth the panel that is on an angle covering the lounge back, look for buried screws in the aft cabin headliner
Fifth is the wall with the electrical outlet and mirror
you now have access to all the bolts that hold in the lounge seat back and bolster.
It's a PITA but doable if you have the time and patience.
Here how it's done:
First remove the light cover over the entrance to the mid cabin there is a screw in there that holds the panel up. I don't remember how many screws hold it up but search around and remove any others.
Second the closet needs to come out
Third the port hole has to come out
fourth the panel that is on an angle covering the lounge back, look for buried screws in the aft cabin headliner
Fifth is the wall with the electrical outlet and mirror
you now have access to all the bolts that hold in the lounge seat back and bolster.
It's a PITA but doable if you have the time and patience.
boatmailster
Well-Known Member
If you can post a picture maybe i could help. Worked on too many models to remember them by number
I knew there was some interior cabin parts to come out. I pretty well considered the closet coming out, but the port hole
removal kind of puts it over the top. Maybe have to think if this is worth the end result. I have a very small cut in the vinyl, less than 3/4 inch. May try to find out if any one can do repair in place.
Thanks for the response. it was an eye opener.
removal kind of puts it over the top. Maybe have to think if this is worth the end result. I have a very small cut in the vinyl, less than 3/4 inch. May try to find out if any one can do repair in place.
Thanks for the response. it was an eye opener.
3/4 inch cut? Is that the only reason? YES - definitely have someone come to you. You most likely have a local, independent shop (mobile). Check with local car dealerships to find out who they use. Dr. Vinyl is a chain that you could try.
I'm not sure on the port hole removal, either. I've never done that on any upholstery removal on any boat I've worked on. Curious as to why. BUT... the porthole is not hard.
I'm not sure on the port hole removal, either. I've never done that on any upholstery removal on any boat I've worked on. Curious as to why. BUT... the porthole is not hard.
boatrboy
Well-Known Member
One of the members sent me his instructions and the sea ray drawings. They are in pdf and am having trouble attaching - I’ll try to attach them when I get to my computer rather than mobile.
I personally decided not to do it at this point but he did say remove the window also.
I personally decided not to do it at this point but he did say remove the window also.
boatmailster
Well-Known Member
I just checked pictures of 2000 270 dancer. It is not that bad but time and patience is required. You need to remove ceiling in mid (aft) berth. Depends on the year there may be screw caps over mounting screws or screws are under vinyl and you have to find them by touch. Once you find them, carefully pull vinyl next to screw head and it will come out exposing head. That vinyl is only tucked in.
Brite Idea
Active Member
- Nov 5, 2011
- 451
- Boat Info
- 2010 310 Sundancer
270 Sundancer 2000
- Engines
- twin 5.0 ECT Bravo III's
twin 4.3 TBI Merecrusier Alpha Gen II counter rotating drives
Don't let removing the port lite scare you that's easy and also you don't have to remove the headliner in the aft cabin. I had thought of adding a storage box under the side bolster so I could reach up and get to the bolts but that doesn't solve the backrest bolts.
I have, like a mesh fabric on the bottom of bolster. Don't know if this was standard. I was wondering if that would gain me any access to the screw heads. It may help with bottom screws but not top two. Really starting to think, on site vinyl repair may be way to go.
Fabric was put there to help with the breathability of the cushion and to aid in draining should any water get in there. You'd end up buggering things worse than they are now by trying to reach up in there to access the phillips head.
boatrboy
Well-Known Member
Below is the info I received from another member. I have not done it myself so I am only providing his notes and drawings he was nice enough to forward.
"
boatrboy,
These are the drawings I told you about. The drawings are not accurate but the thong that helped me was the information about thru bolting and also how it mentions tucking the head liner material in after screwing the panels into place.
disassembly:
1.remove the privacy curtain and track for the aft cabin, this will allow access to the screws that hold the upper panel in place. It was five or six screws.
2. you'll have to remove the handing locker under the window this will also remove some of the screws that hold the lower side panel in the aft cabin.
3. there are three screws behind the cushion in front of the mirror, remove them and the panel should come out but you'll also have to disconnect the outlet wires.
4. the mirror panel was held in place by everything you have previously removed but there is one more screw all the way in the back there is a corner piece that you can't see the screws but carefully pull the headliner material back out of the corner and you'll see the screws, two on mine. This part was found by luck and desperation, grab the mirrored panel at the bottom right corner and yank, it'll will come out. I couldn't believe how the panel was wedged in there.
5.the last remaining panel which is the one at an angle next to the door has a screw driven straight up into the ceiling of the aft cabin, you have to carefully pull the headliner material out where it is tucked in and then you'll see the screw (I hurried to fast and ended up breaking the screw out with a pry bar). Your not done yet, you will have to remove the port window to remove the panel. There's no getting around it I tried.
6. at this point you should be able to see all the thru bolts to the lounge seat backs. To get to them you'll have to reach up from inside the aft cabin.
Next, the helm seat was easy compared to the lounge but you still have two thru bolts to unscrew.
I have a twin engine boat so on the starboard side I have a big access panel which I removed to get to the bolts. I was only able to get to one bolt that way, the second bolt was accessed thru the cabinet on the starboard side by removing the front panel inside the cabinet.
I'll give you a little advice/warning, go slowly be sure you've removed all the screws before you yank any panels. When you look at the drawings they show screws thru the panel into the side of the boat. Well they weren't even there on my boat but they could be there on yours. These boats are production built boats but I think everyone is a little different. If you have questions shoot mean an e-mail to: xxxxxxxxx and I'll do my best to help you. Good Luck!"
"
boatrboy,
These are the drawings I told you about. The drawings are not accurate but the thong that helped me was the information about thru bolting and also how it mentions tucking the head liner material in after screwing the panels into place.
disassembly:
1.remove the privacy curtain and track for the aft cabin, this will allow access to the screws that hold the upper panel in place. It was five or six screws.
2. you'll have to remove the handing locker under the window this will also remove some of the screws that hold the lower side panel in the aft cabin.
3. there are three screws behind the cushion in front of the mirror, remove them and the panel should come out but you'll also have to disconnect the outlet wires.
4. the mirror panel was held in place by everything you have previously removed but there is one more screw all the way in the back there is a corner piece that you can't see the screws but carefully pull the headliner material back out of the corner and you'll see the screws, two on mine. This part was found by luck and desperation, grab the mirrored panel at the bottom right corner and yank, it'll will come out. I couldn't believe how the panel was wedged in there.
5.the last remaining panel which is the one at an angle next to the door has a screw driven straight up into the ceiling of the aft cabin, you have to carefully pull the headliner material out where it is tucked in and then you'll see the screw (I hurried to fast and ended up breaking the screw out with a pry bar). Your not done yet, you will have to remove the port window to remove the panel. There's no getting around it I tried.
6. at this point you should be able to see all the thru bolts to the lounge seat backs. To get to them you'll have to reach up from inside the aft cabin.
Next, the helm seat was easy compared to the lounge but you still have two thru bolts to unscrew.
I have a twin engine boat so on the starboard side I have a big access panel which I removed to get to the bolts. I was only able to get to one bolt that way, the second bolt was accessed thru the cabinet on the starboard side by removing the front panel inside the cabinet.
I'll give you a little advice/warning, go slowly be sure you've removed all the screws before you yank any panels. When you look at the drawings they show screws thru the panel into the side of the boat. Well they weren't even there on my boat but they could be there on yours. These boats are production built boats but I think everyone is a little different. If you have questions shoot mean an e-mail to: xxxxxxxxx and I'll do my best to help you. Good Luck!"
Last edited:
devildogae
New Member
- May 2, 2018
- 29
- Boat Info
- 1997 Sundancer 330
2000 Sundancer 270
- Engines
- 7.4L 454 Mercruiser Inboards
7.4L 454 w/ Bravo 3
I just did this project. It's still apart because I'm replacing the mirror also, the silver backing was coming off. I am more than happy to share pics. Also you do t need to take the porthole window out. The panel can be pulled down by alternating pulling down on each side. I have this process in my mind and details.
devildogae
New Member
- May 2, 2018
- 29
- Boat Info
- 1997 Sundancer 330
2000 Sundancer 270
- Engines
- 7.4L 454 Mercruiser Inboards
7.4L 454 w/ Bravo 3
