removable bilge heater....

I initially thought of something like that, too. And while a shelf with upside down U-brackets installed underneath - or even just L-brackets - would keep it in place, it wouldn't stop the shelf from bouncing/vibrating.
 
You could add a "keeper" on the top side of the stringer (on both the front and back side of the shelf) to keep the shelf from sliding forward and backwards. Still need to deal with excess vibration. Possibly installing some type of anti-vibration mat. Or maybe just two pieces of relatively stiff hose, the full length of the heater, to the shelf, and then the heater to the hose. Sea Ray sometimes uses this to attach fresh water pumps this way to help isolate noise. I also did that to attach my blower that way (again, for noise). This might work out alright for you, though. Maybe take an extra step and attach a thick piece of neoprene/foam to the underside of the shelf, where it would sit on the stringer.
 
good ideas....

let me 'study on it' for a while.....:smt017....

if i really wanted to get creative i could suspend the heater from the hatch lift bracket to combat vibration and bouncing from the boat while cruising....

cliff
 
I get a kick out of the 'process' of doing things like this - it's fun!
 
I like the idea of a shelf to sit across the stringers and just mount the heater to the shelf and sit it in place for the winter, use some heavy duty velcro on the bottom side of shelf and top of stringers to keep it in place - that way no new screws in the stringers. Make the shelf out of Starboard or even plywood depending on how fancy you want to get. Another idea would be to mount the heater on a flat board and build a slot type hanger somewhere like the forward bulkhead, then just "hang" the heater into place.

Also like the idea of a permanent pigtail plug for it. My BoatSafe sat perfectly across the stringers in my boat, I ran a cord to it and just pulled it out if I took the boat out. However I like the idea of being able to leave it in for the winter, and remove in the summer.
 
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On my 250EC I did the stringer board thing. I did attach the boards to the stringers permanently as this was also my foot placement helper for maintenance. screwed the heater to it in the winter.

I have seen where the heaters were permanently installed along the side of the engine compartment. Attached to space near the battery charger. Can't remember which boat though.
 
sdarc said:
On my 250EC I did the stringer board thing. I did attach the boards to the stringers permanently as this was also my foot placement helper for maintenance. screwed the heater to it in the winter.QUOTE]

i like that idea....a board across the stringers that is strong enough to hold my weight would be nice to have while working in the ER....i might be able to use the quick disconnect mount from Xtreme on the board also for the heater...

cliff
Click to expand...
 
Cliff, I cut a 2x4 long enough to span the stringers and wedge in place. Then mounted my extreme heater to the 2x4. I can run the boat and it stays in place. Ran the plug wire thru the engine hatch and plug it into shore power directly. The whole thing can be removed after winter is over. Works for me just fine.
 
thanks for all the input....i'll post back when i make a decision which way i want to go on this...

cliff
 
First winter with the boat, and I decided to heat the engine room, rather than winterize the motors, since we have plans to use the boat in December.

I purchased 2 Caframo Pali 400 Watt Engine Compartment Heaters, on sale at Fisheries Supply. I installed one of them on the forward engine room bulkhead (see photo at http://www.joshpix.com/Private/Boatposts/n-sMBxHR/).

However, I could not find an outlet in the engine room, so I ran the cord up through the cut out into the bottom of the storage locker under the sink in the cockpit. When I have more time, I will run the cord through the cut out that the sink drain runs through, and then I will install the 2nd one in the aft of the engine room, and will try to run the power cord up through the same hole.

I think I'd like to have an outlet in the engine room, which will make it easier to plug/unplug the heaters (since I'll remove them in the summer). I also ordered a wifi temperature sensor, which has an iPhone app that alerts you if the temp drops below a set level. That will enable me to keep tabs on the engine room temperature during cold snaps.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Absolutely not. Not in a gas engine bilge. Think "ka-boom".
Click to expand...

Dennis is right....you don't want a 110VAC outlet in the engine room of a gas boat....however you can hardwire the bilge heater to the electrical system...if you go this route be sure to tap into a circuit that is dedicated to just the bilge heater or a circuit that is not used very much and has a very light load demand on it from other items on the same circuit....when the bilge heater energies it will likely draw around 12 - 13 amps...if you have another item on this same circuit that draws more than 1 or 2 amps if/when both items energize at the same time the 15 amp breaker will pop and then you will not have any freeze protection in the ER from the bilge heater.....

if you want to be able to remove the bilge heater from the ER keep using the AC outlet in the cockpit......

cliff
 
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Woody said:
What is the requirement for junction box, if in the engine room?
Click to expand...

good question Woody....I have no idea.....

cliff
 
I figure that SeaRay has good reason for not putting outlets in the engine room...

I installed 2 of the heaters, running the power cords through an opening under the cockpit sink, and plugged them into the GFCI outlet that the cockpit BBQ uses.
 
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