Refrigerator Replacement

aunights

aunights

New Member
Jul 11, 2011
20
Dalton, GA
Boat Info
510 Sundancer
Engines
QSM 11
I have a 1991 420 Sea Ray Sundancer. I am looking to replace the refrigerator. Has anyone put a Nova-Kool refrigerator in their boat? I know most boats us Norcold, but I leaning towards the Nova-Kool. Any thoughts?
 
I currently am in the same quandary and I am leaning towards an Isotherm Cruise 195, and from what I have found the price between the NovaKool and the Isotherm are about the same.

The bear, or b-oit-ch is going to be the removal of the cockpit sliding doors, and the left side of the refrigerator cabinet as well as the TV cabinet mounted on top above and also removing the steps, just to get the old unit out and the new unit in.

Norcold has a D0061 model for $1299.00 which is a replacement for the Norcold DE461
 
I assume you are going with a 12/110 unit or you would also be looking at dorm fridges for a replacement a lot cheaper. If 12/110 is your choice, check out Tundra. They spec out at far less amperage draw on 12v and are as quiet as a church mouse.
 
defender has the Vitrifrigo for a really good price right now. Its just a tad smaller than the Norcold and from what I have found is a LOT better quality. I ordered mine on the 5th and UPS called today to schedule delivery tomorrow. Not bad.
 
Thanks for the advice. Definitely going with a 110/12V system. I thought the nova-kool looked good due to more storage space for the same size fridge. I will check out the other brands recommended. Already pulled my fridge out to inspect cut out size. A lot simpler than the newer boats!!
 
aunights said:
Thanks for the advice. Definitely going with a 110/12V system. I thought the nova-kool looked good due to more storage space for the same size fridge. I will check out the other brands recommended. Already pulled my fridge out to inspect cut out size. A lot simpler than the newer boats!!
Click to expand...

I thought the same of my home fridge. I found out the larger interior with the same exterior is due to less insulation between the two. Funny....My parents old "FRIDGE" with rounded corners that dad had to defrost once per year...The one that lasted over 40 years.....THAT is a fridge of value.

Unless you are a liveaboard, the fridge is a really underused. IMHO, less amps and quiet is a good thing.
 
We just went through the whole fridge replacement and went with the Nova Kool and couldn't be happier! I replaced my 3.1 cubic ft. Norcold with a 5.8 cubic ft. Nova Kool, using basically the same cut out except for 1/2 inch I cut out on the top of my cabinet. The unit is completely silent and uses a fraction of the power of the old Norcold, it is all stainless steel trim with a stainless front panel and it cost me about $1200 with shipping... And it even has a light in it!
 
Larry said:
We just went through the whole fridge replacement and went with the Nova Kool and couldn't be happier! I replaced my 3.1 cubic ft. Norcold with a 5.8 cubic ft. Nova Kool, using basically the same cut out except for 1/2 inch I cut out on the top of my cabinet. The unit is completely silent and uses a fraction of the power of the old Norcold, it is all stainless steel trim with a stainless front panel and it cost me about $1200 with shipping... And it even has a light in it!
Click to expand...

3.1 to 5.8 in almost the same space??!!?? That's a hell of a jump. How did they do it? Any problem getting it in the cabin?
 
dpmulvey said:
3.1 to 5.8 in almost the same space??!!?? That's a hell of a jump. How did they do it? Any problem getting it in the cabin?
Click to expand...

Nova Kool was extremely accommodating to the whole cabin door issue (size), they made the front trim and door removable. If I recall with the trim removed it was about 21 1/2 deep and about 21 inches wide, the fridge is about 4 inches deeper inside and much more usable space top and bottom.
 
I would learn towards an Isotherm over a Novacold anyday. Check Defender, they usually have the best prices on Isotherm.
 
I researched replacing my Norcold and came down to the Vitrifrigo, Novakool and Isotherm. After talking to people in the business (including a supplier who carried all three) and looking at specs, etc. I ultimately went with the Isotherm (the Cruise 195). It has two compressors instead of the one used in my original Norcold and because of how they are positioned it also has more space (even though it is billed as a near direct replacement in terms of dimensions). Turns out by the way it is not an exact direct replacement, the Isotherm was a bit thinner and we had to do some wood working (I brought in a master carpenter) to be able to mount it. The connections were easy, unplug and replug (although with the Isotherm you will need two AC plugs, the Norcold was just one as only one compressor) - but the wood work took quite a bit of time/effort. And then we had to make a custom wood frame to go around it. Now that it's in, my wife is much, much happier. It seems to hold ar more, it's perfectly quiet (my Norcold was noisy by comparison), the door latches every time you swing it shut (the Norcold door was frequently left open because you had to push it to get it to really latch) and there seems to be no frost/freezing over like my Norcold did all the time in the freezer. We couldn't be happier. Here's a post-install shot:

After.jpg
 
jff said:
I researched replacing my Norcold and came down to the Vitrifrigo, Novakool and Isotherm. After talking to people in the business (including a supplier who carried all three) and looking at specs, etc. I ultimately went with the Isotherm (the Cruise 195). It has two compressors instead of the one used in my original Norcold and because of how they are positioned it also has more space (even though it is billed as a near direct replacement in terms of dimensions). Turns out by the way it is not an exact direct replacement, the Isotherm was a bit thinner and we had to do some wood working (I brought in a master carpenter) to be able to mount it. The connections were easy, unplug and replug (although with the Isotherm you will need two AC plugs, the Norcold was just one as only one compressor) - but the wood work took quite a bit of time/effort. And then we had to make a custom wood frame to go around it. Now that it's in, my wife is much, much happier. It seems to hold ar more, it's perfectly quiet (my Norcold was noisy by comparison), the door latches every time you swing it shut (the Norcold door was frequently left open because you had to push it to get it to really latch) and there seems to be no frost/freezing over like my Norcold did all the time in the freezer. We couldn't be happier. Here's a post-install shot:

View attachment 20657
Click to expand...

Nice looking unit!!
 
I have ordered a power supply as that is what my issue seems to be, however if this does not fix the issue, I am going to go the Isotherm Cruise 195 route. Even if it does correct my current non working refrigerator issue. I think I am going to consider making the Isotherm Cruise a fall update project. I will post some pictures of what it looks like behind the refrigerator and TV cabinet on MY 380 soon.
 
I have removed my TV and installed a 22 inch DVD/TV on a swivel mount which I lock into place while underway. At the rear I have installed a perforated piece of metal to keep items from falling behind the refrigerator. So this is now extra storage. I usually keep paper plates, paper towels, napkins, plastic cups , etc in this space. Ignore the piece of installation which i hanging down. I have not found a glue yet which will hold this up. I tried the 3M orange spray adhesive, no go

Note in order to get the old refrigerator out the TV cabinet and the left side of the refrigerator cabinet have to come out as well as the removal of the cabin doors and other assorted parts/trim I would image for starters.

Then a smart move would be to put the new refrigerator inside connect up and test. Then disconnect the new refrigerator, reassemble the cabinets, install the refrigerator and then start on the cabin doors.

If I have to go this route I am going to take vacation time, so I can figure out what I am doing and not rush something :huh:

TVCabinetStorageEmptyGood2COMP.jpg



TVCabinetStorageFull1COMP.jpg


Items stored, If you remove your CRT TV and obtain about a four foot step ladder along with a trouble light. You can access most of the items above the horizontal blue water line, note the Glomaster power brick on the left along with the 120 outlet, and the coaxial cable splitter.

pseudomind
pseudomind
pseudomind
Back wall
RefrigeratorCabinet2COMP.jpg


Through Hulls
ThroughHullDrains2COMP.jpg


Bottom and the refrigerator cabinet right side
ThroughHullDrainsIFFY1COMP.jpg


Left side, note the mounting plates the cockpit steps on on the other side of the vertical wooden panel
RefrigeratorCabinetGood5COMP.jpg

Note the second 120 VAC outlets at the bottom

ThroughHullDrains2COMP.jpg
 
Last edited:
The Isotherm looks nice, but it is 2" narrower than my cut out. It looks likes the nova-Kool or Vitrifrigo are my top choices. I think I actually have room for the Nova-Kool 9000 model. 9.1 cubic ft of room! Thanks for all the help.
 
Yes, it was about 2" narrower for me as well - somehow when I looked at all the measurements I thought it was exact, you have to really look at these closely to make sure (for example, whether or not the flange is counted or not in the width, etc.). I also looked at the Nova-Kool 9000 but that would have taken (in my case) even more modifications. We're definitely extremely pleased with the Isotherm but no doubt you have to look at your space, the dimensions of the units, the cubic feet you'll get, etc. etc.
 
The power supply fixed the issue, after some unplanned issues and not doing a double check when the new supply was installed.

Well it is like this, crap happens and I guess one should always do/check their own work? I had ordered a new thermostat thinking it was bad which was not needed, but c'est la vie.

Turns out the power supply was the issue and when we installed it the guy helping me had mounted the power supply back on the refrigerator, but the main connection had become disconnected, without any of us apparently noticing it it was only half way on the power supply. I believe this is the connections from the Thermostat.

I discovered this on this past Saturday as I have a better Norcold troubling shooting manual I found on line and I was going to make some checks myself. The refrigerator has now been running normally since Saturday afternoon.

The power supply was bad as it was blowing the main fuse whenever power was applied to it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,118
Messages
1,426,556
Members
61,035
Latest member
Lukerney
Back
Top