Recommendation for Fresh Water pump....

mnm99

mnm99

Well-Known Member
Oct 2, 2015
2,447
Long Island
Boat Info
2004 340 SeaRay Sundancer
Engines
Twin 8.1 Merc
I currently have a 2.3 gallon standard pump and am looking for a 4.0 with better pressure. The one I found was a Sureflo 4048. Its rated at 4.0gph , 10a at 55psi. My pump says it is rated at 7.5Amp max. Do you think I will have a problem with the 10Amp rating of the new pump? I just looked up my Fuse rating and it was at 10A... Says from manual. I don't know... 9 BRKR/ROCK, SGL-POLE AC/DC HORZ 10A RED

Choices...
https://www.go2marine.com/product/4...60-psi-water-system-pump-4-0-gpm-12-volt.html

https://www.go2marine.com/product/388391F/johnson-pump-wps-water-pressure-pump-4-0-gpm-12-volt.html

https://www.go2marine.com/item/4652...-water-pressure-system-pump-4148-153-e75.html
 
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I just replaced mine with the 4 gpm. $158 is about right. Great flow and pressure, parts easily available.
 
I tried both, Cleaning and turning the screw...I need a new pump. So...I took my pump out to do a little test. Normal running free flow I'm running at 1.8 amps. When I put back pressure on the pump right before it turns off I get 6 amps. The breaker and wire is rated at 10 amps. This new pump has a 10 amp max rating while mine has a 7.5. I'm worried about tripping the breaker it this pump hit's the 10 amp max with pressure. Most likely the pump pulls a little less than it says, but the only way to know is to put water through it. If I do that I can't return it. I would change the breaker to a 12.5 if I could, but can't find one. That would be pushing the wire limit. The wire on my pump now is 16 GA.
 
They make a 3 gpm as well and going from a 2.3 to a 3 would likely be just fine. My original was 3.3 gpm and the 4 gpm is more than enough...wife and kids just empty tank that much faster!
 
The panel switch is really a switch duty breaker which, I believe, only come in 5 or 10A increments. You could change it to a 15A breaker which will keep the new pump from tripping the breaker when the current draw is at its maximum. Then add an inline 10 or 12.5A slo-blow fuse at the pump for actual circuit protection. The slo-blow fuses have a slight delay built into their design to prevent a minor surge or over amp situation from blowing the fuse or damaging the wiring and the components are fully protected to the limit on the fuse.
 
fwebster said:
The panel switch is really a switch duty breaker which, I believe, only come in 5 or 10A increments. You could change it to a 15A breaker which will keep the new pump from tripping the breaker when the current draw is at its maximum. Then add an inline 10 or 12.5A slo-blow fuse at the pump for actual circuit protection. The slo-blow fuses have a slight delay built into their design to prevent a minor surge or over amp situation from blowing the fuse or damaging the wiring and the components are fully protected to the limit on the fuse.
Click to expand...

That a good idea..If I change the fuse in the panel to a 15, do you think I should put the 12.5 near the pump or behind the panel?
 
Well I figured out a little different idea. I bought the pump and it pulls 11 Amps at full load. So that means my wiring won't work. What I'm going to do is just install a 30A relay that is activated by the original power pump supply. The main hot lead to the relay will come from the positive lug in the engine compartment fuse panel using an inline 15A fuse and 14 gauge wire. From the relay to the pump with 14 gauge wire. Done.
 
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Pump is in, but didn't get to test it yet. I did do a test in a bucket of water and the pressure and flow was much greater than the old. The relay setup worked out well. Here is the difference in the size of the pump.
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I did this exact replacement a month ago. I did'nt change anything electrically, and I have not had a problem with the breaker tripping. I do have an acumulator tank installed, but don't think that changes the electrical draw.

Thank goodness...mine is way up front.

Nice install!
 
dtfeld said:
I did this exact replacement a month ago. I did'nt change anything electrically, and I have not had a problem with the breaker tripping. I do have an acumulator tank installed, but don't think that changes the electrical draw.

Thank goodness...mine is way up front.

Nice install!
Click to expand...
What size breaker do you have? Your wiring may be different than mine. The wire to the breaker is 16Ga. That is not recommended for 15A. This pump hit 11A at max load on my meter. It was just for a second though. It says on the pump to use a 15A breaker. Are you happy with the pressure?
 
To be honest, I don’t know any of the details of that electrical system as I just haven’t needed to dig into it that deep. I followed a recommendation from several other 410 owners who did the exact same replacement. The pump on the 410 is up front. Originally in the ac compartment under the berth, but moved to the front bilge compartment. I’d love to move it to the engine room.

I did look at putting in a 5 gpm version, but the electrical draw was significantly more than the original 3.3, so I went with the tried and true, settling for the 4 gpm. No regrets.

I am very happy. Water flow is great. The sink puts out more water than my home kitchen faucet. Shower pressure is good as well. I don’t know about using sink and shower together, but it would be a rare occasion, but I think acceptable.
 
dtfeld said:
I just replaced mine with the 4 gpm. $158 is about right. Great flow and pressure, parts easily available.
Click to expand...

Dave,
I can live with the pressure the way it is, still get a decent shower, aerators in all of the cabin faucets are restricted to less than the 3.3 pump anyway, but wouldn’t mind a quieter pump. Is the pump you installed any quieter?
Do you still have the Accumulator installed?

BTW: Just checked the wiring diagram. The breaker in the cabin panel is 10 amp and the wire is 14 gauge.
 
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