Re-gelcoat entire boat - where in Michigan?

[spikedaddy99]

I was "told" by the shop that applied the Awlgrip that repair of any major scrapes through the layer were much easier to fix because the color holds its value for years. I can tell you it has held up very well so far. Transported in 1000 miles from Virginia to Wisconsin last summer on a semi trailer with no rock dings or road rash AT ALL. The boat is docked with 4 fenders on the starboard side rubbing the paint with no signs of wear yet. I wash it with Awlgrip's cleaner twice a year, and apply the sealer at the end of the season. Easy as that.

 

[tcbrian]

More good information. I will keep you all posted as to the progress. It's not oxidized or dull, but there are some rashes, dings, and even a hole that I found on the side that I want patched up. I don't have the knowledge to try and do any of this myself (or the space, i.e. a pole barn). I am meeting with a restoration guy this weekend who has done some pretty amazing work that I recently saw.

I really appreciate the forum. Thanks to you all.

 

[trit21]

I was "told" by the shop that applied the Awlgrip that repair of any major scrapes through the layer were much easier to fix because the color holds its value for years. I can tell you it has held up very well so far. Transported in 1000 miles from Virginia to Wisconsin last summer on a semi trailer with no rock dings or road rash AT ALL. The boat is docked with 4 fenders on the starboard side rubbing the paint with no signs of wear yet. I wash it with Awlgrip's cleaner twice a year, and apply the sealer at the end of the season. Easy as that.

Which of the awlgrips products did you use? Acrylic urethane or the polyurethane? THe awlgrip rep that I have been speaking to says to stay with the acrylic urethane as it is easier to fix, will not show the patch. Problem with the polyurthane and the repair is the polyurethane has a clean coat built into the paint product. During the cure cycle, the clear rises to the surface and that is where that deep looking shien comes from. If during the cure, you get moisture or particles in the paint, it may look hazy. Same concept for the repair, no way to get it to match exactly due the cure process. What I have been told, FWIW.

 

[390x]

Which of the awlgrips products did you use? Acrylic urethane or the polyurethane? THe awlgrip rep that I have been speaking to says to stay with the acrylic urethane as it is easier to fix, will not show the patch. Problem with the polyurthane and the repair is the polyurethane has a clean coat built into the paint product. During the cure cycle, the clear rises to the surface and that is where that deep looking shien comes from. If during the cure, you get moisture or particles in the paint, it may look hazy. Same concept for the repair, no way to get it to match exactly due the cure process. What I have been told, FWIW.

Trit is right on with the clear coming to the surface. This is what I don't like about some Awl Grip products. They aren't meant to be buffed. Imron can be if it gets scuffed. I've also never had any trouble with paint matches. A paint match is only as good as the person mixing it. Formula uses Imron on their boats. I'd thought Hatteras used to as well, but I think they're Awl Grip now as someone else stated. Formulas are absolute top-shelf boats. If Imron is good enough for them, it's good enough for me.

 

[Avenger]

Brian, I have had few of my boats painted with Imron. One was a 357 Formula and one was a 380 Powerquest both were durrable as heck and I wouldn't even think about using gel due to the maintenance it involves. I am from your area and would recommend Mcclains Auto Body. The owners name is Greg and he is one heck of a fussy guy. Not to mention he is an avid boater in the area. As far as the deck of your Pachanga goes, isn't it mostly white gel with the blue just being on the outer portion, meaing you shouldnt be walking on that much. That is assuming you are only painting the blue above the rub rail. I know the boat you bought. Its been a few years since I've seen it on the bay but it was a really nice boat then. Have fun

 

[tcbrian]

This is great info as well. The only time I walk on the deck is dropping or retrieving my anchor. I don't go that close to the beach where I can do it once I'm in shallow water. I usually stay in at least 10ft of water to anchor. And yes, the entire deck is white. Blue trim is on the sides. But I want the entire boat redone. There are some stress crack in the deck and some near the windshield. There's some dock rash on the port side under the rub rail, and I need a new rub rail as well. So, I'm looking for the whole boat to be done.

It really is a nice boat. And it's in great shape still. The engine is really something. I just want it perfect. Like my last boat. Which, it will be

Thanks for the referral. I'll be checking out McClains Auto Body - Greg. I didn't even think to call an auto body shop.

 

[tcbrian]

@ Avenger

Is the McClain's you're talking about in South Boardman?

 

[Avenger]

Brian, Yes although he moved his shop to Kalkaska. He also ownes Boaters Pride and full marine detail/repair service.

 

[spikedaddy99]

Which of the awlgrips products did you use? Acrylic urethane or the polyurethane? THe awlgrip rep that I have been speaking to says to stay with the acrylic urethane as it is easier to fix, will not show the patch. Problem with the polyurthane and the repair is the polyurethane has a clean coat built into the paint product. During the cure cycle, the clear rises to the surface and that is where that deep looking shien comes from. If during the cure, you get moisture or particles in the paint, it may look hazy. Same concept for the repair, no way to get it to match exactly due the cure process. What I have been told, FWIW.

Acrylic urethane.
Mike