Raymarine C70 and Raymarine SL530 Issues – Please Help

[Alex F]

Just got her splashed this weekend and was able to do a quick test of electronics.

My 320DA has two GPS units. One is Raymarine C70 and the other Raymarine SL530. I still didn’t put back the radar antenna, but GPS antenna is in place. When both units start up all works fine for some time (15, 20 min or so). Then, I get an alarming sound and alert message is displayed on both screens “No Fix”. My basic interpretation is that GPS just looses signal. I’ve done the test of having using only one unit at the time and it makes no difference. Eventually, each unit has the same alert after a while. I have the boat in the same location where I had my 240DA, which never had any issues with loosing GPS signal. So, it’s clearly not a bad signal area.

The second issue is with Raymarine C70. I just got new Navionics chart #16 for C70 that covers all of East coast. When I move cursor over objects “T” and click on option to get tides info the unit goes to restart. I’ve done this several times and the issue is consistent. The same function works fine on SL530, which uses C-Map charts instead of Navionics.

I’ll install the radar antenna today, but I’m positive that this is irrelevant.

Any thoughts and advice is greatly appreciated.
Alex.

 

[Four Suns]

Neither of the units you mention are GPS units. What model GPS do you have?

 

[Alex F]

Gary,
I see your point. I guess the units I've mentioned are multifunctional displays. As you can imagine, all electronics on this boat are new to me, so I;m learning as I go along.

Besides two manuals for C-Series and SL530 Chartplotter displays, I'm looking at Pathfinder Radar Scanner and Raystar 120 & 112LP GPS Reciever manuals. So, I think the proper answer to what model GPS I have is either Raystar 120 or Raystar 112LP GPS. I assume the actual GPS unit would be under the dash, so I'll try to determine the actual model when I get back to te boat next weekend. Based on the antenna, it's SeaTalk version (that's what it say on the antenna itself).

I've installed the Radar antenna, which I took down as part of the prep steps for transportation last fall and based on what I see the Radar works fine. After following messages on the display I was able to get the radar start spinning and display was showing how the area is being scanned. This is the first radar I'm dealing with, so everything else I have to learn.

I'm not sure if my warranty covers the issue I have, so if you could give me some tips it'll be great.

Thanks,
Alex.

 

[Four Suns]

It's possible your raystar 120 is just going/gone bad. I had a Raynav 300 GPS system and it started giving the same symptoms as you describe. I ripped the thing off the hardtop and put a newer raystar 125 and have not had a problem since. A search on the Interent revealed that many people with Raynav 300 systems had the same issue and the same cure. Hooking a GPS up to your SeaTalk network is extremely easy.

I'm not familier with the raystar 120 but seeing it is from the same vintage as the Raynav 300, I would suspect it is suffering a similar fate. You are right... that alarm is *very* annoying. So annoying, in fact, I put in 2 GPS systems tied to a multiplexer so I would have automatic failover and I *never* want to hear that noise again.

 

[Alex F]

Thanks Gary,

Based on quick review it looks like this is a single unit (receiver is part of the antenna). I'll try to place few phone calls and see if I have a chance to get it coverred by warranty. I guess, I'll always have a chance to pay out of my own pocket. But, in any event if GPS reciever is the only problem then it sounds like not that big of a deal. Based on my quick web search it the Raystar 125 can be found around $250-$300.

BTW, having second unit as a backup is a nice option. I'll look in to it ones I get the first one working and get to know my system little better.

Alex.

 

[Four Suns]

It's not a big deal to fix it... It's a big deal when you are in fog and it decides to "loud alarm" you to death.

 

[Alex F]

Gary,
Do you know by any chance what is this switch used for? When we were test driviing the boat prior purchase the alarm went off and we made this as part of the "to be fixed" items. The seller told as there must a problem with the switch (the nub wa sactually missing) and he replaced it. Later when we ran it all worked fine. Only after I accepted the vessel and took a last ride before winterizing this cameback. I pressed the switch and looks like it fixed it. But, now when I was testing this weekend, the pressing on the switch didn't make a difference.

Also, any idea on C70 resetting when clicking on tide icons?

Thanks,
Alex.

 

[daddyox]

I get the "no fix" periodically on my C70. The wires below the helm aren't connected the best. Sometimes its a bit loose (or corroded). Once or twice a year I have to reach down and pull the wire off, and put it back on. Then i get the fix...
I carry a spare handheld-- in case.

 

[Alex F]

daddyox,
Did you ever come across an issue I have when clicking on the "T" images to see tides info? My C70 goes to reset right away. Everything else looks ok, based on a quick test I did, except fo the "no fix...").

 

[daddyox]

Alex
I haven't had that issue-- yet anyway. Just my wire connection problem.

 

[Four Suns]

Gary,
Do you know by any chance what is this switch used for? When we were test driviing the boat prior purchase the alarm went off and we made this as part of the "to be fixed" items. The seller told as there must a problem with the switch (the nub wa sactually missing) and he replaced it. Later when we ran it all worked fine. Only after I accepted the vessel and took a last ride before winterizing this cameback. I pressed the switch and looks like it fixed it. But, now when I was testing this weekend, the pressing on the switch didn't make a difference.

Also, any idea on C70 resetting when clicking on tide icons?

Thanks,
Alex.

No idea what that is. What does it "switch"?

 

[Alex F]

I didn't have a chance to do detailed analyses, but what I was told by the seller's broker it's like a reset switch. However, I don't see it as part of wiring diagram for any of the units (GPS, displays or radar). This is very unusual.

 

[Four Suns]

Look under the helm and find out where those "switch" wires go. I wonder if he wired it up to power cycle the GPS... how hookie would that be...

 

[Alex F]

A quick update, I just found a big discussion on this topic at:

http://my.boatus.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49786

It looks like a wide spread issue with these units.

Alex.

 

[Four Suns]

So based on the discussion over there, the Raynav 300 I had used the same antenna. As I said, I had that no-fix problem and the only solution that really worked was to rip the thing out and put in a Raystar 125 and then set the head unit to work in slave mode.

Keep the 120 antenna and drag it behind your car on the way home from the marina. It'll make you feel better.

So did the guy just put a switch in to power cycle the thing? That's really funny....

 

[Alex F]

I found the white junction box and did some testing.

My test results with unit off:
Red to ground = 12v
Yellow to ground varies between 6v and 7v
Yellow to Red varies between 0v and 2v, occasionally to 4v

My test results with unit on:
Red to ground = 12v
Yellow to ground varies between 6v and 7v
Yellow to Red varies between 2v and 3v, occasionally to 5v

Does the voltage being at such low rate between red and yellow sounds like a GPS receiver is koocked?

 

[Pirate]

If I remember correctly, the old SL and RC units never cut power to the GPS receivers. As a result, they would fill their memories and begin exhibiting errors and crazy behavior. I installed a few switches on those units so they could be shut down when not in use. No guarantee that's what yours is, but I wouldn't be surprised.

 

[tobnpr]

Alex:
Do you have the latest C-Series firmware update installed? If not, might have something to do with the charting problem- you said you have the newest chart, might require the upgrade.

 

[Alex F]

Thanks Pirate, I've read in another forum that people try to install switches as you describe. I'll look in to it, but for now I need to get it working first before introducing an enhancement.

tobnpr, the upgrading the software is the path I'm on. I've downloaded the software do my PC and need to get the CF card. I checked two stores and they didn't have what Raymarine recommends.

Do you guys know if the 0v to 4v is the sign of bad receiver?

Thanks,
Alex.

 

[tobnpr]

Fluctuating low voltage between the yellow and ground is normal and indicates the unit is probably working OK- the voltage fluctuates as each sentence is output. I don't think checking voltage between the 12v hot and NMEA out is indicative of anything.

Let's back up here- do you have the NMEA version, or the Seatalk version of the 112LP, and how do you have the interface wired? The yellow wire can be either NMEA or Seatalk, depending on the model you have.

I have the 112LP and an RC620+ installed on my Chris-Craft- and yes, I do have the 112LP wired to an on/off toggle. Unlike the newer MFD's, the older units do not supply power to the receiver, so it is wired to the power supply and needs to be switched somewhere (unless you want to leave it on all the time).