Raw water pump impeller change 6.2L v-drives

A

AAK

Member
TECHNICAL Contributor
Feb 14, 2009
135
Perry Hall , Md
Boat Info
2000 38 Sundancer
Engines
7.4 Horizon FWC
I'm going to change the raw water impellers on my 2006 320 Sundancer with 6.2L v-drives this winter. I've done this before on some v-drive boats and they aren't fun.

I've got a couple of questions and would appreciate any help I can get.

1. I've got the fuel cooler boxes mounted over the raw water pumps that limit access. I've heard the horror stories about trying to remove these and the plastic water fittings break off and then you have to buy the whole housing. Can the fuel cooler boxes stay on? Should they be loosened to gain some access with out removing the hoses?

2. I would assume the raw water pump comes off with the mounting bracket as an assembly? Are there any hidden bolts on nuts that present a problem to get the bracket off? After the bracket is loose I assume this is the best way to get the intake and return hoses off the pump after draining the water out to eliminate a vacuum?

3. Are there any winterizing air pump out lines or anything related to the water pressure system from Smartcraft to remove? In other words, is there anything that I can't easily see that needs to come off the pump prior to removal to avoid breaking something?

4. I've been giving some thought to removing the port side muffler and exhaust hoses to gain access since the starboard raw water pump faces the port engine too. Anybody try this and it made a big difference?

5. I know about pre-lubing the new impeller blades with grease or dish detergent and getting the correct set of the blades.

If anybody has done the impeller change out on this type of boat configuration; I would really appreciate your input as to problems to avoid, schematics/drawings, short cuts, or advice.

Thanks,
Al
 
Last edited:
No do it yourself people on this job? Should I post this on the "Official 320 thread" to get a response
 
I don't want to deter you from attempting it, but I watched the mechanic at my marina lay accross my engine with his head down in the bilge struggling for 2 hours to get one of the impellers out. He had to finish the job the next day. I was billed for 4 hours of labor for one engine. This is what the bill said:

"Remove port fuel cell. Wiggle out pump (difficult). Replace impeller, assemble and mount. Install hoses, mount fuel cell and run engine. Check for leaks. All good. Ran both engines and compared water pressure. Starboard engine has far less pressure than port (new impeller). Suggest starboard side impeller change."

$420 in labor, $35.50 in parts.

I then had them do the starboard impellar. That bill was $403 with parts.

I like to do my own work, but laying acrros the engine hanging down in the bilge for that much time is not fun and not good for my back. That was one job that just wasnt for me.

I believe Alex posted that he changed the impellers on both engines in less than 2 hours. Not sure how he did it.

Good luck!
 
Vince nj1,

I agree, it's a difficult job. I did them on my old 35' Sundancer and had to lay on the engine, but I knew what I was doing. I've got this post out here just to find somebody that did this already. I'm leaning towards getting the muffler and exhaust hoses out of the way on the port side to give me room and a better visual on the job. Once I get one engine done the other engine will be much easier to do. The learning curve is steep on this job.

Thanks for the reply,
Al
 
The first time I changed my impellers the pumps were tight coming out and the fuel coolers had to be loosened to get enough clearance. I made a slight mod to the pump housing and bracket(ground off about 1/16"+ in two locations) and now they slide right out. This might be a little help for you v-drive guys but working over the top of those engines has got to be a bitch.
 
Woody,

1. When you loosened the fuel cooler you meant that you just removed what was holding it in place and left all of the fuel and water hoses connected?
2. When you say you ground on the bracket and the pump housing, did you actually grind on the pump its self? Do they now slide out without having to loosen the fuel cooler after you did the grinding?
3. I bet the second pump took half the time of the first pump after you knew what to do.

Thanks for the reply,
Al
 
1. In my case I just loosened the cooler and was able to push it enough to get the pump out. I did not remove any hoses, water or fuel, to the cooler.

2. Yes, I ground on the pump itself and the bracket. The pump hit on the cooler and the bracket hit on the vibration dampner or belt pulley. Normaly I would be hesitant to do this but the area I ground on was the end cap. The cap itself was slightly larger than the pump body demensions and it could do no harm by removing it.

I loosen the belt, remove the idler and two water hoses that are infront of the pump. One goes to the thermostat housing and the other to the circulating pump I think.

3. I can do each pump in about an hr. I don't know if that's good or not but I'm satisfied. In the future if I decided to pay someone to do it, this should save some labor $$.

I thought about taking pics and offering them to the forum, but didn't. Now I wish I had.
 
Woody,

It sounds like you figured out the repair on your boat to make it easier. I should be able to take some of your pointers on getting the pump out. I'm still hoping to hear from somebody that did a 320 to see what they say about getting access to do the job.

Thanks,
Al
 
On my '85 merc 260's, I was able to remove the entire pump by taking loose the intake and output hoses. I then removed the pully from the pump. The belt came right off. To my surprise, the pully and belt went back into place without any adjustment.
 
on those motors if you remove the exhaust hose from the elbow to the canister, then when you remove the nut and bolt that holds the pump on it is easier to remove the stud that holds the pump up and remove the 2 hoses after.
 
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