Ran her up on the rocks - what does insurance cover?

Ouch, sorry to hear of your pain...I run through Woods Hole a lot myself. Just came back this morning from OB myself, in the fog and rain.Yes, it is a very unforgiving location.

Good luck with the repairs....keep us posted on progress.
 
I doubt an inboard would have driven away at all - I still would not trade for I/O's.
 
I would imagine the running gear of a v drive boat would be inoperable after a collision such as that. However, I am quite confident the v drive boat would be quite a bit less expensive and easier to fix...... Eaier to fix also means more likely to be fixed correctly.
I don't think you could argue either would be easier to fix or that one or the other would not be fixed correctly based on design. Elaborate on why you think it would be less expensive to fix a v-drive boat by quite a bit. One can't even assume the hull damage would be the same. Assuming the shaft tube is spared, the strut and rudder shaft would have likely damaged the hull further. The props would certainly have hit rock and likely damaged the transmission. Ignoring the difference that may exist in hull damage, the list of mechanical items damaged on a v-drive boat at worst would include struts, shafts, bearings, transmissions, rudders, and rudder shafts. The list of mechanical items damaged on the OP's boat at worst would include the lower units of the outdrives. So, I can't believe the money difference between repairing an IB and OB would be quite a bit.
 
I don't think you could argue either would be easier to fix or that one or the other would not be fixed correctly based on design. Elaborate on why you think it would be less expensive to fix a v-drive boat by quite a bit. One can't even assume the hull damage would be the same. Assuming the shaft tube is spared, the strut and rudder shaft would have likely damaged the hull further. The props would certainly have hit rock and likely damaged the transmission. Ignoring the difference that may exist in hull damage, the list of mechanical items damaged on a v-drive boat at worst would include struts, shafts, bearings, transmissions, rudders, and rudder shafts. The list of mechanical items damaged on the OP's boat at worst would include the lower units of the outdrives. So, I can't believe the money difference between repairing an IB and OB would be quite a bit.

I ran aground 2 months ago and replacing shafts, props, cutlass bearings, couplers, straighten the struts, and some gel coat repairs came to $8K. I was able to drive the boat 10 miles back to the harbor at 1500 rpm with no problem. So there is one data point to compare to. The marina service manager said if it were not for the prop tunnels, the damage would have been a lot worse.
 
Charlie,
Sorry to hear about it. Keep us posted.
Chuck
 
Your boat (and you) are going to come out of this OK. Without the ability to see the damage personally and not being a professional repair person, I will say that just by looking at the pics I have seen far worse damage get repaired. From what you have posted, it looks like the overall extent of damage is not at an extreme level.

Good luck. We cant afford to lose a Sun Sport owner on this board!
 
First of all - glad your OK - the only pic that looks bad is the transom......I'm sure all will go well with the repair. I've been through there in low visability conditions as well and have found myself second guessing the safe passage. as an aside I was at a marina today and there were two "new" sea rays on the hard for repair after grounding - one was a 48DA with a large hole in the bottom just aft of the thruster tube - the other was a 36DB that absolutely wiped out all of its running gear
 
So far the estimate is a little over $14k WITHOUT the fiberglass work. Which should bring it over $20k.

Where does the insurance company get the value of the boat? I had a survey done in '08 when I bought it. Is that still good?

I don't want her totalled and get a lowball offer from the insurnace company.
 
Charlie

The only place I know where we "commoners" can get prices is NADA.com.

But ask your dealer what the value is. They have access to more realistic selling prices in your area. Also, the insurance company will likely have to locate similar boats to yours that are for sale now and will have to base much of their payout value on that. Since used 280/2900SS are few and far between, that might prove difficult.

Dave
 
So far the estimate is a little over $14k WITHOUT the fiberglass work. Which should bring it over $20k.

Where does the insurance company get the value of the boat? I had a survey done in '08 when I bought it. Is that still good?

I don't want her totalled and get a lowball offer from the insurnace company.

Charlie, very sorry for your accident. I hit something 6 years ago this month and did $22,000.00 to a $30,000 valued 300 Weekender. I fought with my insurance co. for 6 wks, they hired a surveyor, I hired one too and then we got 3rd one involved as an umpire... I do hope you do not experience this B.S. that I did.

Now, with the negative out of the way.... try to do as much preventative maintenance on the boat as possible using the insurance co's dime... I had my hot water heater replaced, I had dripless shaft seals installed, hoses replaced, etc etc... the list could go on and on. The deal is the insurance co. is paying for the labor on stuff that is being touched by the repair yard and if not damaged from the wreck you are just paying for parts and in most cases it's lot cheaper for the part then the labor to remove an engine and install the new part....?
 
So far the estimate is a little over $14k WITHOUT the fiberglass work. Which should bring it over $20k.

Where does the insurance company get the value of the boat? I had a survey done in '08 when I bought it. Is that still good?

I don't want her totalled and get a lowball offer from the insurnace company.

After looking at the pics, I'm confused as to what work is required besides fiberglass. That and the skegs.
 
Charlie, very sorry for your accident. I hit something 6 years ago this month and did $22,000.00 to a $30,000 valued 300 Weekender. I fought with my insurance co. for 6 wks, they hired a surveyor, I hired one too and then we got 3rd one involved as an umpire... I do hope you do not experience this B.S. that I did.

Now, with the negative out of the way.... try to do as much preventative maintenance on the boat as possible using the insurance co's dime... I had my hot water heater replaced, I had dripless shaft seals installed, hoses replaced, etc etc... the list could go on and on. The deal is the insurance co. is paying for the labor on stuff that is being touched by the repair yard and if not damaged from the wreck you are just paying for parts and in most cases it's lot cheaper for the part then the labor to remove an engine and install the new part....?

Good advice. I had already had that conversation with the boat yard and asked about doing manifolds and risers while the engines were out, replacing the water heater which was shot, and a full botoom paint.
 
After looking at the pics, I'm confused as to what work is required besides fiberglass. That and the skegs.

I guess it's the fact that the engines and outdrives have to be removed. And the cost of new lower units, or even new outdrives. I haven't seen the estimate yet.
 
Sorry about your boat, glad you boated away and made it home safe. Have you pulled everything out that you can to allow you to look at tabs in compartments. Since the hull was stressed it would have transferred it to other parts as well. I'd make sure the interior is thoroughly inspected. Compartments under the forward berth, storage area under carpet, anything that has the 'grey' paint on it that you can access from the inside as well as motor mounts.
 
Sorry about your boat, glad you boated away and made it home safe. Have you pulled everything out that you can to allow you to look at tabs in compartments. Since the hull was stressed it would have transferred it to other parts as well. I'd make sure the interior is thoroughly inspected. Compartments under the forward berth, storage area under carpet, anything that has the 'grey' paint on it that you can access from the inside as well as motor mounts.

I never thought about that. The boat is loaded with all of the vacation gear, and every compartment is full. I'll have to stop by and remove a lot of gear. Thanks.
 
Look close. Look up at the bottom of the compartments tops as well, where the platforms are tabbed to the hull. May require a contortionist, or at least some Advil the following day. This is the time to make all your discoveries and make sure boat is restored to 100%.
 
Charlie,
As I posted earlier I ran aground 2 months ago and had to go through the same process as you are now. My damage estimate was $12,800 but included close to $5,000 of maintentance as complete bottom painting, replacing 3 impellers and complete alignment checks in and out of the water. Much to my surprise, the insurance company was willing to pay for all but $400 of this which was clasified as betterment. Of course I had to pay my deductible but with new shafts, cutlass bearings, couplers and upgraded 4 blade props, my boat is better than it was before the accident. I did not have much hull damage other than a few scrapes so I was surprised that so much of the bottom painting was covered. However, my boat is only 4 years old compared to yours so there was no deduction for depreciation because my policy specifies it only if the boat is 7 years or older.

If your insurance company is as good as mine, you should be in pretty good shape with the principal downside being the loss of boating time and some reduction for depreciation depending on how your policy is worded. The only hassle I had was with my bank holding the loan who required that the settlement check be endorsed by them and myself. So I had to FedEx it to them first for signature before I could pay the marina with the proceeds. I feel your pain since I went through the same thing you did but hopefully everything will turn out as well as it did for me.:thumbsup:
 
Although I haven't seen the itemized estimate yet, the repair is estimated at $28k! That number seems too high, but what do I know.

I don't know what the insurance company is going to do. It should be an interesting week...
 

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