Question about cost of Risers/Elbows

MAKC

MAKC

Member
Oct 23, 2006
519
Windsor Locks, CT / Milford, CT
Boat Info
1997 400 Sedan Bridge
Engines
3116 Caterpillar
On my 2003 240DA with a 5.0MPI

Im being quoted $3100 as the cost replace the elbows and risers from a SR dealer. Does that sound reasonable? TIA

Mike
 
Mike, why not do it yourself, it isn't hard to do at all.

I'll give ya a hand...
 
I agree do the job your self. the parts are only around a 1000.00 bucks Think how much gas you could but this summer with 2100.00 bucks
 
Anyone recommend a good source for the elbow and risers online?
 
I was quoted $2300 for twins.
 
You will save even more if you decide to go with generics such as GLM or OSCO... They are sold through ebasic power. And it’s really not that difficult to replace, it’s a straight forward replacement. All you need is time. BTW, you may want to check the "flappers" inside the exhaust.

good luck!!
 
Ihave had this work done by the dealer. That sounds a bit high, even with mercruiser parts. I seem to recall $2600 per engine. But then there are the shop fees. environmental fees. Billing fees. Fees for imposing fees. . . .
 
ebasicpower doesn't carry any dry joint risers. I did find them at sterndrives.com and of course they cost more... Around 2002 Mercruiser started using the must better designed dry-joint gasket system in the 5.0 and 5.7L engines.
 
Here's the deal. Im trading my boat in and they are telling me my risers and elbows need to be replaced. They are charging me $3100 off my trade (same cost as if i just brought my boat to them and said change them). So that $3100 is their cost after parts and labor plus their standard margin. Fine. I work in sales. I know how that works. But if i pay full price, ive made the margin BETTER for them. I think im going to ask them to give me their COST on that work because otherwise the deal got better for them, and worse for me (margin wise). What do you guys think?

Mike
 
This is what I would want to know How much are they giving you for you trade the way it is And then how much they are giving you for your trade if the replace everything Then like you said if you pay for it and trade the boat tell them to charge you there internel price for the parts and labor
 
Huh. That changes everything in my mind. You know they probably are not going to actually change out the exhaust unless the next owner figures out that the exhausts are shot during the "survey" step.

But the bottom line is that the deal is the deal. . . .deductions for this that and the other are irrelevant. Cost of the new boat and the old boat are irrelevant. There is only ONE number that counts: The one that appears on the check you write to close the deal.

Are you happy with that number or not?

If you are playing the excuses game, then bake in the $3.1K deduct for the exhaust and drop the "Value" of the new boat by $5K.


- - - -

BTW: Just checked my bill. They charged a bit over $2K per enigine on 5.7LX engines.
$1300 in parts, $630 in labor, plus $40 because I look funny. Oh. . and a haulout/relaunch charge. The claim of $3100 sounds high.
 
I agree Comsnark. Im not paying full price to replace them and eating that cost. If they dont give me the internal cost (parts plus their labor without markup) then theres going to be an issue. They have also said that a slew of other things on my boat are not working, and that my NEW trailer needs brakes and bearings. For a trailer less than 1000 miles, i must have beaten the living @#%$% out of it and used the trailers own brakes to stop my F350. I told the dealer that i expect to see all these things they told me was wrong with my boat in person because from the way he's describing it, it sounds like another boat entirely. If i get there and the things they told me are broken do indeed work ( i KNOW they do), im going to blow a gasket (no pun intended).

Another question about risers. Is there any way to tell that they need to be replaced without pulling them? The boat has never shown any symptoms that they need to be replaced (not that it means anything). I just figured that some people on here would know how to tell they need to be replaced.

Im starting to get a sour taste in my mouth about this whole deal...

thanks for all your help

Mike
 
A 2003 would probably be due for elbows this year. Manifolds could last a few years more, but the smart money knows manifolds are cheaper than engines.

Best regards,
Frank
 
well the way I look at it, if you rip the suckers off, cause they're about due, to look at them, you might as well replace them.
 
It's an easy job until you break a manifold stud. Have fun drilling them out between two engines!

Doug
 
Makc; I think the bottom line is that they are lowballing you. You either should take it on the chin, or go equally lowball on the boat you are attempting to buy. In "general" you should target 30% off of MSRP on a 2008 boat. You should target "book" value on your own boat and trailer. If the boat you are trying to buy is 2007 or older (but still new) target a "clean used" price.

As for manifold condition: Any weepage from flanges? Any white stuff around the gasket areas? Any rust? It would not be out of line for a 2003 boat to be due for new exhausts at the start of 2008, but $3100 sounds out of line for replacement cost; which should send up warning flags on the whole deal.

It is recommended to pull the system apart for inspection every once in a while (I have heard people say start at the end of year three, then every year until replaced). My mechanic pulled one set apart trouble shooting an engine overheat issue last year "because it is easy". and it took him $40 in gaskets and an hour or so in labor.
 
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