QSM-11 spare parts list

W

WFYB

New Member
Oct 5, 2006
143
Ft Lauderdale, Fl
Boat Info
500SD
Engines
QSM11
OK all you QSM experts. I am surveying an 05 500DB on friday. if all goes well we will be moving up and almost immediatly on our way to the Abacos. I would like to build a spare parts kit. Spare Racors, impellers, pullers etc. I don't have access to the part numbers. yet. Can anyone offer a spare parts list with order numbers.

Thanks
 
I'm going to help (kinda) by saying you'll also need spare parts for your generator. Impeller, filters, belt, etc.

One suggestion if you're in a hurry is to call your local Cummins dealer. They have "spare parts kits in a box" for the motors and the generator.
 
Impellers -Sherwood 18000's, 13.5 Onan genny Impeller, spare alt. belt, racors 30 micron, (4), Racors for genny. Cummins secondary fuel filters (2). Each engine has (3) zincs plus 3 smaller zincs for external coolers, genny also has zinc. This should take care of you for now. I would change engine oil if you have time unless it was recently done. I gal of fleetguard coolant

You can call Tony Athens, he is the Cummins Expert see boatdiesel.com.

Mark
05' SR 500 SB Owner
 
Mark,
What size racors are in the genny and mains. Are the mains 900 or 1000. I have a bunch of 900 racors from my 420, and the smaller ones from the genny.

Thanks
 
Jon

I believe they are 900's. (About 4" dia x 5" tall) You have typical Racor set-up of two 900's per engine. I don't recall genny size, but they are much smaller. When you look at the boat, you will likely have (1) Raymarine C120 and one SeaRay Navigator. Most likely the battery in the Navigator will be bad or will go bad shortly thereafter. This requires removal of Navigator to be sent out. You may want to consider ditching the Navigator and replacing with another C or E120. You should also look into changing out engine air filters as there has been some failures of the steel meshing, that lets go and ends up in the turbo's....not good.....

Mark
 
As far as spares, as someone said, the 900 racor filters are what you need. I use the 30 micron filters in the racors and 10 micron on engine fuel filters (that's what Cummins recommends). The on engine filters I use are Fleetguard FS1001. I have an account with Ryder Fleet Products ( http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com ) and get all my Fleetguard products from them. There is a "marine" version of the FS1001 but the only difference is a brass drain valve cover at the bottom instead of a plastic one. Something about fire/fumes... I don't know... the FS1001 works fine. I carry an extra set of those as well as the Racors. You can also get water filters, oil filters, test strips, coolant, and all the other goodies you'll need for maintenance.

The impellers you need are for the Sherwood 1800 series water pumps. You can get the Sherwood brand at various places. I just switched mine out for the ones made by Seaboard Marine ( http://sbmar.com ) and they seem to be of better quality. The impellers for the 1800 series pumps are pricey.. about $175 a piece.

Having the impellers is not going to be good enough though if you need to change them. You can NOT wedge these things out with a screw driver and you'll need an impeller puller that will fit them or the bolt that screws into the end to pull them out. The Sherwood bolt is a different size than the Seaboard Marine bolt. Seaboard does send a bolt with their impellers but you'll need to find the one or buy one for the ones that are currently in your water pumps. Here is the bolt for the Sherwood impellers:

http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/index.php?p=details&mfc=Sherwood&sku=23631&frm=g

However, if you want to spend money, screw the bolt and buy a real impeller puller (a big one).

If the impeller goes out on the port side engine, you'll have to remove that 8" exhaust tube to get behind the engine. I carry a half dozen 8" T-Bolt clamps because they tend to gall when reused. I reuse what I can but when they gall they are shot. I also have a 5:1 block and tackle I use to put the exhaust tube back on but you are probably stronger than me. I am a wimp ass. You'll also need a few pillows to throw down or you'll get poked to death back there.

I would also carry a spare cam insert for the pump and you can get those from Seaboard Marine as well. If you smoke the impeller from a clog in the strainer or forgetting to turn on a seacock, you can destroy the plastic cam insert as well. They are about $200. You may be better off just getting one "minor rebuild kit" for a pump as that contains a cam, rubber o-rings, impeller, and cover. I scored the cover pretty bad and destroyed a cam last year when I forgot to open a seacock on the starboard engine. Because I had the spares, it turned it into less than a 30 minute job. Otherwise, it could have been a 3 day delay.

I wrote up some instructions on changing the impellers on these engines. You may want to print them out. For example, you you pull the impeller out and don't lock down the cam with a bolt and washer first, you'll pull the cam out with the impeller and there is a small pin that will drop down into the raw water circuit and ruin your entire day. Here's that link:

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=935&highlight=wedge

For the QSM-11 engines, impellers (and the associated accessories to remove/install them) and fuel filters is about all you'll need. I would make sure you have some Rescue Tape ( http://rescuetape.com ) in case of any hose breaks. I assume your engines will have been serviced with zincs, oil changes, etc. I do also carry a bunch of 2 1/2" hose clamps in case any of those fail.

As far as what to look for when you are buying it, you may want to look at these posts:

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5036&highlight=bracket

That's about a $5K job to fix those brackets. There is a kit you can get from sbmar.com but if you want to put it back the way it was, it's labor intensive and not cheap.

and

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4846&highlight=blow

and

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5206&highlight=hydraulic

Additionally, you need to look at the air filters as someone else suggested. If you have brown plastic air filters, there have been many reports of the internal screens falling apart after a few years and it will damage the engine as the screen goes into the turbo and through the engine. Make sure the survey looks for any pitting on the turbo blades. You should replace those crappy things with this:

http://www.walkerairsep.com/product_detail.asp?id=577

I put those on my engines and they are great. You can clean the filters (the OEM ones you can not) and Walker makes great quality things IMO.

I could go on about all the spares I carry for this boat but that's not what you asked...

I've probably lost most readers at this point because this is such a long post.... So I can now say pretty much anything and no one will catch it.

Kearney is a Dork.
 
Last edited:
Oh yeah... a few more things. I do carry the following:

Alternator belt: Cummins part # 3037425
Thermostat: Cummins part # 4003949

Rubber o-rings for the pipe going into the aftercooler heat exchanger in case I have to pick impeller parts out of it: Cummins part #'s 145582, 145583, 145586

While you are at it, I would pick up a Parts Catalog for the QMS-11. I have one and it has blow up pictures on how stuff comes apart along with all the part numbers.
 
Hi Gary,
With ref to changing the impellor and your quote "you'll pull the cam out with the impeller and there is a small pin that will drop down into the raw water circuit and ruin your entire day" I havent done this yet but it is on the jobs list. Which is the small pin that I have to look out for falling out.
Here's a link http://www.sherwoodpumpsdistributio...ne-Distribution/en-us/MPG_3045_17000_TECH.pdf to the sherwood pump site with numbered parts would you mind listing the number of the part thats going to fall out please

Thanks Chris
 
Not specific to QSM 11s, but I carry a spare gallon of Cummins ES Compleat coolant for my C series, and if you have to swap racor elements I carry two gallons of clean diesel and a half gallon plastic jug to top off the racor canisters with clean fuel before reassembling the lid. On mechanical C series like mine this prevents air ingestion into the fuel system, and then having your mains crap out after you burn the fuel forward of the Racors. I also carry spare belts for the mains and genset, plus hose repair kits of various sizes. And bungs and a rubber mallet in case I tear off an underwater exhaust in a debris strike. Not that such a thing could ever happen in the pristine waters of the beautiful Potomac River.

regards
Skip
 
The pump you reference is a 1700 series pump and is smaller and different than the 1800 series pump. The 1800 series has a full plastic cam liner whereas the 1700 does not (I don't believe so but I have never messed with them). The pin in the 1800 cam is at the base of the cam and on the back side and keeps the cam insert from spinning arount with the impeller.
 
Skip has a good suggestion. I also have a small jug of clean diesel for priming filters. If you replace the on-engine ones, you need to fill them first. If you have enough fuel in the tank, the racors can self prime by opening the valve before you tighten the lid.
 
MadDog said:
One suggestion if you're in a hurry is to call your local Cummins dealer. They have "spare parts kits in a box" for the motors and the generator.
Click to expand...

I think the Cummins spare parts kit comes in a nice plastic box but I didn't like the contents of it. For example, it comes with a set of zincs but it doesn't come with the o-rings to put the raw water tube back together that you have to remove to pick impeller pieces out of the aftercooler. I don't think the contents were picked based on "real world" experience. The box is nice though. Did I mention that?

For the generator, assuming it's the same Onan in my 480, I carry the following:

Raw water impeller
Alternator/water pump belt
Oil filter (part # 0185-5835)
Fuel filter (part # 0149-2106) This is the on-engine fuel filter
500 series 30 micron Racor filters

I get my Onan genny parts from Blue Water Ships Stores

http://www.bluewatershipsstore.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=onan

It doesn't take long to reach a point where you have to change the oil on the generator. I change mine about every 100 hours and so I end up doing it in the middle of trips usually. I carry a few oil filters and fuel filters because of that.

With regards to oil and coolant, on my 480, there are two 2-gallon jugs mounted in a holder between the engines that are filled with oil and coolant. You may want to dump the oil and put fresh in if it is 3 years old. It holds enough to do two oil changes on the generator.

I don't know the impeller part number on the generator but it is a Sherwood part. Those are very easy to change and I just change mine twice a year regardless. The generator will shut down if it starts to go bad. Also, if you need to pick impeller pieces out of the heat exchanger, you should do that when you change the oil on it. The cap to the heat exchanger is behind the oil filter and you may want to pull that off anyway to see if any crap is in there from the previous owner.

Another good thing to carry is a tube of the blue RTV gasket stuff... miracle goop when you don't have a needed gasket and need a temp fix.
 
Gary, Thank you.
I already have lots of items for my 420DA, (spare diesel fuel, engine oil, coolant, 900 racors etc.) that I was planning to transfer to the 500DB. You provided exactly the info I needed. QSM-11 specific tricks of the trade.

Thanks again
 
Well... the real "trick to the trade" for me in that engine room is the 5:1 block and tackle I have. I use is it in several ways in that engine room. For example, I put the pole/handle from my cleaning brush (it extends to about 10 feet long) across the engine room on top of the fuel tanks and then put the block and tackle hanging from it. This then gives me a small hoist to hold things like water pumps, fuel coolers, exhaust hoses, etc. while I bolt them on and off. These are heavy pieces of gear and that really helps. Also, putting the exhaust tubes back on can be done by putting a rope around the exhaust and the using the block and tackle mounted on the opposite engine to pull it into place. My son says I'm just weak but I think it's better than forcing everything by pounding on it and dropping it, etc. The block and tackle I use is the 5:1 system I got for my Lifesling MOB thingy... They make it with a nice bag. I have a hook on each side of the bridge to haul someone up if I can't use the platform (PWC or dinghy on it). Meanwhile, it gets lots of use in the engine room.
 
Four Suns said:
I also have a 5:1 block and tackle I use to put the exhaust tube back on but you are probably stronger than me. I am a wimp ass. You'll also need a few pillows to throw down or you'll get poked to death back there.
Click to expand...


Gary...what is a 5:1 block? How is it used? I new very little about your post...but interesting reading.
 
Gary, As to the survey, I read your post concerning the air seps, bracket etc. and emailed the post to our surveyor Monday. we survey tomorrow am so we will see what turns up.

thanks again
 
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