Putting her away and already planning to de-winterize...

Glocker

Member
Sep 7, 2019
39
Boat Info
Boat: 2000 Sea Ray 185
Tow Vehicle: 2019 Ford Ranger XLT FX4
Engines
4.3 Mercruiser
I haven't even winterized my 185 yet but I'm already planning towards the future! Hopefully this weekend I will be winterizing the boat; fuel treatment, pink antifreeze using the flush bottle method, fog the motor, lower the outdrive for storage, remove the battery (and store on a tender), remove all of the life jackets, and cover. As for covering; is it okay to put a cover over the cockpit and bow tonneau covers? Or is there a risk of moisture building between the two and messing up the toneau covers?

So in the spring, what do I need to do to get her back on the water? Is it as simple as putting the muffs on and getting her cranked again? I'll probably do a full detail on it in the spring too; wash, polish, and wax along with cleaning out the bilge/engine area, and the storage compartments. It came with a couple of fenders that don't have any line on them so I'll do those too.

Having just purchased the boat back in July, It's only been on the water four times since I bought it. I had a fluid change done after my first time out on it. So I'm not planning on touching any of that since it's only seen three uses on the oil change.

Thank you!
 
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Where are you located, and how will the boat be stored (outside, covered/indoor, indoor heated).
Did you do the gear lube when you did the oil? Make sure the fuel tank is full to minimize condensation.
Any organic build up on the bottom from the PO? I'd get that off now.
Drain the water out of the engine before AF, so you reduce dilution. If you're fogging anyways, may as well replace the spark plugs.
 
Where are you located, and how will the boat be stored (outside, covered/indoor, indoor heated).
Did you do the gear lube when you did the oil? Make sure the fuel tank is full to minimize condensation.
Any organic build up on the bottom from the PO? I'd get that off now.
Drain the water out of the engine before AF, so you reduce dilution. If you're fogging anyways, may as well replace the spark plugs.
I'm in Georgia, and the boat will be out in an open yard.
I'll be using this to put antifreeze through it: https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/cam...t-winterizer-kit-for-inboard-outboard-engines
 
Here is my winterizing checklist for my 185. I am stored indoors now, so I don't put the back on the prop anymore. I also have a cover that I put on over my canvas, BUT I am indoors so it is really for dust. If outside in the elements I would NOT do this, could get moisture between the covers and they could rub from wind etc. In spring, I re-install the drive if it was removed, and crank it up - ready to go. After an hour or two of runtime I change the fuel filter and any other maintenance items (plugs, etc) that are due.
I personally do not like the "suck it in method" for winterizing, I prefer to drain the block/manifolds, then fill with anti-freeze. If you do the "suck in" I would drain the engine first - otherwise you run the risk of the thermostat not opening at the right time and you will not get a good mix of anitfreeze in the engine.

List looks long, but it really only takes about two hours - most of that is watching the oil drain.

  • Add fuel stabilizer / run engine
  • Change engine oil / filter
  • Warm engine, introduce fogging spray until engine stalls
  • Drain engine block, water pump elbow, manifolds (5 blue plugs)
  • Drain PS cooler if necessary
  • Re-install blue plugs
  • Remove thermostat housing (or hoses)
  • Fill engine block with 1-2gal anti-freeze
  • Fill each manifold with 1gal anti-freeze - until it runs out of exhaust
  • Re-install thermostat housing (or hoses)
  • Drain gear lube (start this in step 2 while engine is warm)
  • Remove outdrive -
  • (I do this every 3rd season now, usually take the drive home and replace the water pump impeller)
  • Inspect bellows.
  • Check engine alignment
  • Re-install outdrive (new gasket set) or install gimbal cover if keeping drive off - torque to 50 ftlb
  • Check / Torque steering pin clamp - 55 ftlb
  • Fill outdrive with gear lube (new gaskets on drain plugs)
  • Put damp rid containers in boat
  • Remove radio
  • Turn battery switch off
  • Remove drain plug - place in cupholder with keys
 
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Since my impeller was changed in July and the boat has only been on the water for two occasions after that, I think I'm going to leave the gear oil alone in the outdrive.
 
I would suggest not to use a tarp over any canvas cover. No matter how tight you make the tarp wind will move it around and it will rub on your canvas. The tarp may feel smooth but will abrade / chafe your expensive canvas. I tried this one winter with my Sunbrella mooring cover; by springtime the tarp had worn holes in it.
 
I would suggest not to use a tarp over any canvas cover. No matter how tight you make the tarp wind will move it around and it will rub on your canvas. The tarp may feel smooth but will abrade / chafe your expensive canvas. I tried this one winter with my Sunbrella mooring cover; by springtime the tarp had worn holes in it.
+1. I've asked my canvas guys about this, and they say not to out a tarp over the canvas because it will hold moisture and mold. We are in Chicago so a little different climate that you have.

Either use the canvas or use a tarp. I used canvas for years and the winter aged the canvas. A few years ago I started shrink wrapping on my own, cost is reasonable when you do it yourself and the results are great. I'll never go back to a tarp. Year 1 investment for the supplies is high, but then I've gone 3 years on the same roll of wrap and the same banding, and that covered both my 24' runabout and my two sea doos.

I was really nervous that I would screw it up the first time but I watched a bunch of you tube videos and it worked out great.

I used a cheap flame thrower from harbor freight for a couple years, and last year found a buddy with a real shrink wrap gun. You have to be careful with the harbor freight flamethrower, but if you practice a little tou can really get it down. Will be easier in warmer climates.
 
+1. I've asked my canvas guys about this, and they say not to out a tarp over the canvas because it will hold moisture and mold. We are in Chicago so a little different climate that you have.

Either use the canvas or use a tarp. I used canvas for years and the winter aged the canvas. A few years ago I started shrink wrapping on my own, cost is reasonable when you do it yourself and the results are great. I'll never go back to a tarp. Year 1 investment for the supplies is high, but then I've gone 3 years on the same roll of wrap and the same banding, and that covered both my 24' runabout and my two sea doos.

I was really nervous that I would screw it up the first time but I watched a bunch of you tube videos and it worked out great.

I used a cheap flame thrower from harbor freight for a couple years, and last year found a buddy with a real shrink wrap gun. You have to be careful with the harbor freight flamethrower, but if you practice a little tou can really get it down. Will be easier in warmer climates.

For me it's shrink wrap or a tarp. We can have very heavy snow loads. I was always worried about snow loading damaging canvas framing, or the canvas itself. I've seen some really nasty winds whip through during storage. A winter of those would have shredded by expensive canvas.

I tried a couple different things on my 270 Amberjack. First, shrink wrapping. I got tired of the expense and waste. Also, sometimes the shrink guy didn't get to the yard until late. I switched to a tarp to get the job done on my timeline and at less cost. Had several interations of this: over the canvas (BAD idea), various frames (wood, PVC, wood again). Tried going back to shrink, but having it strategically applied and removed so it could be reused; it didn't work well the 2nd year. After the shrink guy didn't show in the yard one year until Christmas I swore off and stuck with a tarp / frame for several years. I finally had a very good, repeatable system and I went and sold the boat.

This year with a new, larger boat that has a hard top and mast, a tarp just doesn't work. I'm going to have it shrink wrapped, then consider having a custom canvas cover made.
 
Since my impeller was changed in July and the boat has only been on the water for two occasions after that, I think I'm going to leave the gear oil alone in the outdrive.

Yeah, I would, no need to change it that soon. As far as the impeller, on the Alpha I Gen II the impeller is very durable. I used to change mine every other year, but it always looked like new so I have gone to every 3yrs.
 
Cool. I'll store my canvas covers in the garage and use the tarp!
 

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