Prop Anode??

dpvandy01

dpvandy01

Well-Known Member
Sep 6, 2007
2,535
Cincinnati, Ohio/Ohio River and SW Florida Gulf
Boat Info
2007 38 Sundancer
&
2014 Sea Fox 256 Commander
Engines
Twin 8.1L Close Cooled V-Drives & 300 Yamaha OB
I just bought an anode for the prop nut on my BIII. The Anode looks like it goes over the prop nut and there is a screw provided however my porp shaft has no threaded screw hole in which to screw.... Do I need to drill and then tap/die the prop shaft or am I just missing something obvious? (always a strong possibility):huh:
 
Mercrusier didn't start threading the prop shaft for a prop anode until sometime after 2001. My 2001 boat did not have the threaded hole but my 2005 boat did. You could look at one of these adapters. I'm sure other people make/sell them.

http://www.boatzincs.com/MERProp-Nut-D-mag.html

I've heard that drilling and taping the prop shaft is a problem because the steel is hardened.
 
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And a special "thank you" to Sea Ray of Cincinnati for selling me a $25.00 Anode specificaly for the 2001 280DA with a BIII that they just sold me 1 month ago that doesn't even readily work on this Outdrive. Thanks more to each and every one of you here in the Official Academy of Sea Ray otherwise known as CSR...........:smt038
 
when this anode begins it's weight loss program do any of you notice a vibration. I'm sure it doesn't corrode/disolve evenly :huh:
 
The prop-anode was added in late 2003.

The official Mercury part number is Merc 809666A02
Mercruiser list price is $159.85. ******* sells this for about $92.

The above Boatzinc kit is half the price and will work fine.
 
Presentation said:
The official Mercury part number is Merc 809666A02
Mercruiser list price is $159.85. ******* sells this for about $92.

QUOTE]

Wow Guess I should not be too trubled by the $25.00 at Cincy SR. But that's only for the actual anode, not including the adapter, also, it's zinc not magnesium
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It should be magnesium for fresh water. I would return it and get a replacement. Even if you order the kit from Boat Zincs, you can still use the spare anode the next time you have to change it.
 
Dave is being way too polite. Dave’s a nice guy.

Take it back, find the guy that sold it to you,…now throw it as hard as you can directly at his head. When he comes to say ‘zinc is for salt water, magnesium is for freshwater as@@@le!

There is no excuse for this.

PS: How are you buying directly from Sea Ray? When you say Sea Ray do you mean a Sea Ray dealer?

edit: hmmm: I found this site. http://flerlage.com/ I dont get it.
 
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Every anode on my boat is zinc......... always has been. perhaps should not have been. Ohio River freshwater.

Presentation:
Ok, I live in Cincinnati, we have a Sea Ray dealership....................................................................................................................................................................if I say Flerlage the Sea Ray Dealership in cincinnati yes it's far more descriptive but in this area Sea Ray of Cincinnati is concise enough :smt021. Sorry to confuse you


I will look in to the Magnesium vs Zinc theroy. I realize that Magnesium is more noble than Zinc so perhaps this is the best choice.
 
Interesting, the Zinc Anode for my BIII was only $12 from my dealer.
 
If you check with Mercury I'm pretty sure that you will find they specify aluminum anodes for salt water and magnesium anodes for fresh. Given the possible issues corrosion with Bravo 3's, I'd check it out. A lot of Searays don't have the prop nut, even after Mercury designed them in. My 300 DA did not come with them, but they were easy to add.
 
I use the boatzinc's prop nut kit and it works well. I purchased spares when I ordered it. I am not really sure that the standard b3 zinc fits on this adapter. I remember trying to find a fit at Boaters world and West Marine to no avail. Boatzinc's prices are pretty good and yes, for saltwater they recommended aluminum for my application. I used all their products this year and am happy with the results.

Mark
 
dpvandy01 said:
Every anode on my boat is zinc......... always has been. perhaps should not have been. Ohio River freshwater.

Presentation:
Ok, I live in Cincinnati, we have a Sea Ray dealership....................................................................................................................................................................if I say Flerlage the Sea Ray Dealership in cincinnati yes it's far more descriptive but in this area Sea Ray of Cincinnati is concise enough :smt021. Sorry to confuse you


I will look in to the Magnesium vs Zinc theroy. I realize that Magnesium is more noble than Zinc so perhaps this is the best choice.
Click to expand...

My Sea Ray dealer regularly changes out the annodes on all new boats to magnesium when they know the boat will be wet slipped. (I beleive they are all delivered with aluminum annodes). If your B3s have any corrosion, you will be much better off changing all the anodes to magnesium.
 
jrcinnh said:
If you check with Mercury I'm pretty sure that you will find they specify aluminum anodes for salt water and magnesium anodes for fresh. .
Click to expand...

Are we sure these are Aluminum?? seems strange to me. If the outdrive is aluminum the sacrificial metal should be softer and more noble??? I think the original equipment on my '01 was zinc rather than aluminum. I will replace when needed with magnesium after the input from this little chat..:thumbsup:
 
dpvandy01 said:
Are we sure these are Aluminum?? seems strange to me. If the outdrive is aluminum the sacrificial metal should be softer and more noble??? I think the original equipment on my '01 was zinc rather than aluminum. I will replace when needed with magnesium after the input from this little chat..:thumbsup:
Click to expand...


The aluminum anodes are alloys.

The specific alloy is engineered to be sacrificial to the drive in fresh, salt and brackish water. They make the alloy such that it protects the drive yet lasts longer then magnesium.

That being said, I would not use a magnesium anode.
 
Presentation said:
The aluminum anodes are alloys.

The specific alloy is engineered to be sacrificial to the drive in fresh, salt and brackish water. They make the alloy such that it protects the drive yet lasts longer then magnesium.

That being said, I would not use a magnesium anode.
Click to expand...

That explains the metals..... but all the conflicting info can make my wee little brain hurt:smt101
 
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