Power Service Diesel Kleen Concentrated Version Now Available in Retail Packaging

[fwebster]

For those of you who use Power Service Diesel Kleen and get weary of running by your local parts house or big box store every time you need a quart, then this may be of interest to you:

Power Service now has a concentrated version in a retail package. The regular version treats 100 gal for a cost of $6.96 if you buy it in a case of 12- 32 oz bottles. The concentrated version, part number 3128-04, is available in gallons and treats 1000 gallons of diesel is available from Amazon Prime for $45.62:

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Servic...30&sr=8-2&keywords=power+service+diesel+kleen


The cost to treat 100 gal of fuel with the regular put-up is $6.96; with the concentrated version the cost drops to $4.56 which is about a 1/3 savings, if you want to save trips to the store and don't mind measuring out the concentrated Diesel Kleen, the concentrated version might be for you.




note: There is an even more concentrated version (1:1500) than the 1:1000 version mentioned above. It is designed for commercial applications and is only sold in cases of 2-2.5 gal jugs or 5 gal which will treat 3,750 gal of diesel.

 

[HUMPH]

Nice, thanks Frank! Much easier to carry one jug.

 

[Gimme Time]

Frank,

i follow your fuel additive mixture recommendation on GT and wonder if you think it would be any problem to create my own premixed for my typical fill up so it's quicker and easier to pour into each tank. About 90% of the time I'm putting 125 to 150 gallons per side as I Cary 175 per side. Being a little over mixed doesn't seem to be an issue so what do you think?

 

[JV II]

Sweet find. I'm paying ~$10 a quart that treats 100 gallons up here in Boston. Thanks!

 

[fwebster]

Frank,

i follow your fuel additive mixture recommendation on GT and wonder if you think it would be any problem to create my own premixed for my typical fill up so it's quicker and easier to pour into each tank. About 90% of the time I'm putting 125 to 150 gallons per side as I Cary 175 per side. Being a little over mixed doesn't seem to be an issue so what do you think?

John,

I think all the Power Service additives are compatible with and can be mixed with each other. The Stanadyne Lubricity additive can also be mixed with other additives since it just adds lubricity. The only caution I would urge is to be careful and don't over-dose the biocide. My approach is a little different than yours........I have used the Stanadyne lubricity additive in my fuel tanks in Tennessee for 15 years and have accumulated a bunch of 16 oz bottles between the boat and my equipment in Tennessee. I measure out enough Diesel Kleen to treat 125 gal, the Lubricity additive treats 125 gal, and the biocide comes in a measuring spout bottle. I keep up with my fuel usage and top off when I need 250 gal....125 in each tank.......so I'm only measuring the biocide; everything else goes in in full bottles. If I am on a trip, 8 hours run timegets me to where I have to buy fuel or start paddling and that is 1-1/2 16 oz bottles in each tank. IT isn't precise and it is a slight over dose on all additives, but in 20 years with this boat and these additives, I have yet to have a fuel problem or to find a dirty filter when I change them.

 

[Havana Shamrock]

Frank, I have been following your formula since we bought the boat and knock on wood have had no fuel problems. I haven't used a biocide and admit I don't know when to use it if at all. Not looking to hi jack but it's kinda related and thanks for the heads up on the diesel kleen find.

 

[fwebster]

Frank, I have been following your formula since we bought the boat and knock on wood have had no fuel problems. I haven't used a biocide and admit I don't know when to use it if at all. Not looking to hi jack but it's kinda related and thanks for the heads up on the diesel kleen find.

Diesel fuel is subject to several kinds of "garbage" that causes filters to clog. Asphaltines.......a black powdery substance; water........present to some degree in all underground and boat tanks; sludge.......the combination of water and debris at the bottom of fuel tanks and many times present in the storage tank at an unknown marina; and, microbial growth. The microbial growth are the only part of the picture that a biocide can help you with.

Fungus and bacteria are present in the soil so they are quite prevalent in the atmosphere. For them to grow into a problem they require water and a food source which is diesel fuel in a storage tank, whether it be in the fuel tanks in your boat (which you do control), or in the storage tank at your marina, or in the tanker that delivers to your marina, or at the fuel distributor (which you do not control). Microbial growth forms clumps or chains that usually adhere to interior tanks walls, baffles, pick up tubes, fuel senders, etc inside the tank. So.....fungus and bacteria are present in the fuel and all the spores need to grow into a problem is diesel fuel and water.

You don't control the supply line ahead of your fuel nozzle at the point of purchase. You get whatever is in the tanks ahead of you whether it be dirt, sludge, water, or whatever. The water part of the equation you can easily control by keeping your tanks full to avoid condensation, keeping the deck fills tightly closed and the o-rings in good condition. You can also easily control the microbial growth part of the fungus/bacteria and food/water process by using a biocide.

I treat every drop of fuel I run in anything with a biocide along with Diesel Kleen and a Lubricity additive. I have the boat plus I have several tractors, a backhoe, a dozer, a pickup truck, and Bobcat. The equipment is fueled from either an above ground tank or a 100 gal trailer mounted tank, both of which may sit 1/4-1/2 full for months at a time. I just don't have fuel problems and I attribute that to using additives that work.

I suspect you haven't had a problem yet because you keep your tanks full and you buy from a retailer that pumps a lot of fuel (his supply is frequently replenished with fresh fuel). In your boat, if you watch your Racors very carefully, you might see a microbial growth problem before it shuts you down. But, the one thing you will discover is not a lot of fun is changing a set of clogged Racors while you are in 4-6 ft seas, trying to hold on in a hot cramped engine room. Regular doses of a biocide will prevent the microbial growth part of fuel contamination. That is the "why"..........



Here is the "how":

If your tanks have never had a biocide treatment, there is some growth in them, but probably not much because microbial growth only occurs between 50˚F and 140˚F. You winter temps likely keep the growth to a minimum. To begin with a biocide, you can shock the tanks with a dose recommended on the biocide label for a "shock treatment", then add 1 80 oz. jug of Diesel 9-1-1 to each tank. Do this before your next fuel purchase.......add the biocide and 9-1-1 just before you top off the tanks.

NOTE: This is now an off label use for Diesel 9-1-1. Power Service has a new additive for cleaning up fuel, but 9-1-1 didn't change and is more economical for a one time treatment........the new product is a combination of additives designed for a continued treatment regimen. The biocide kills any growth in the tanks and the 9-1-1 breaks up the chains into particles so small they can pass thru most filter media. Any particles bigger than 30 microns gets trapped in the Racors (if you are using 30 micron elements) or the 2 micron primary filters on the engines. You may want to plan your next filter change for after you run the treated fuel out of the tanks.

After your tanks are clean, or with the next fill up if you choose to not do the shock treatment, then, at your next fuel purchase, add a "maintenance dose" of biocide in a quantity to treat the entire tank capacity before topping off the tanks with fuel. After that fill up, then you only add biocide for the amount of fuel you plan to take on or add to the tanks. From here on, all you need do is add biocide for the amount you plan to add to the tanks.


Hope that helps.............the process is easy and works, but if you have questions post them or PM me.

 

[Rssll45]

Frank, one question: The Diesel Kleen has a lubricity additive in it. Why use another like Stanadyne along with the Diesel Kleen?

 

[fwebster]

Because Power Service won't tell you what their additives do to the lubricity; they just tell you it is in there.

Stanadyne is the fuel system vendor for most US diesel engine makers and their lubricity additive was developed to replace the lubricating qualities that stripping the sulfur from diesel to refine LSD and USLD removes. It is Stanadyne's injectors and pumps that they are protecting with their additive, so I am more comfortable with their products and than with "We add lubricity enhancers, but we won't tell you how or if its efficacy was tested or if we replaced all or just part of the lubricity."

Pumps and injectors are clean-room items and tend to be expensive to replace.........I just won't risk not being sure.

 

[Rssll45]

Thanks for he info and passing along he Diesel Kleen deal.

 

[Havana Shamrock]

Thanks for clearing all that up Frank I copied your biocide procedure for the spring..

 

[dpmulvey]

Frank,

Is this something a gas engine boater should consider?. Due to ethanol, every fillup gets a dose of MMO and StaBil.

 

[fwebster]

David,

The general answer is no, but I know just enough about ethanol gas to be dangerous.

The additives for diesel combat problems with the current fuel supply that gasoline engines are not affected by. The change from regular diesel to low sulfur diesel (LSD), then the further change to ultra low sulfur diesel (USLD) changed the allowable sulfur first to 500ppm, then to no more than 15ppm. The extra processing to reduce the sulfur content also reduced the cetane and the lubricity. Additionally, the ability of diesel fuel to support microbial growth in the presence of water. So ethanol gas users don't need to be concerned with low cetane, lost lubricity, or microbial growth.

Ethanol fuel has its own set of problems. I combat them in small engines and off road equipment by using non-ethanol gasoline, available at a premium, in both Tennessee and Florida. The other issue is to reduce the water your fuel is exposed to. Your boat tanks are vented to atmosphere, so it is important to leave your fuel tanks full thus reducing the air from the atmosphere in the tank. I cannot advise you on additives because I don't use ethanol fuel.....I do use a stabilizer. The mechanics at the marina in Florida use ValvTech's stabilizer and recommend it over Quicksilver and Stabil because it disperses water and prevents phase separation in addition to stabilizing the fuel.