Power adapters for the dock power posts...to adapt so you can plug in appliances

YeOldeStonecat

YeOldeStonecat

Active Member
Jun 10, 2018
332
Waterford, CT, boat in Deep River, CT
Boat Info
'97 300 DA "Me-Shell"
Engines
Twin 5.7 V-Drive
When using my buffer wheel on the boat, I have to run extension cords down into my galley. I've seen some people on the docks use little adapters that plug directly into the 30 amp dock power power, like when they want to run a pump to pump out a dingy, or vacuum, etc.

Can you basically get ANY 30 to 15 amp adapter? Or are there certain specs I should look for?
I found this little guy for 8 bucks on Amazon..says 30 amps but one of the prongs looks like it's missing a 90* bend.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-PowerG...5&sr=8-14&keywords=shore+power+30+amp+adapter

Or there's this 28 dollar one here..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...4-1b19-589c-8d56-ab86cdc6778a&pf_rd_i=3398761

This one here looks like it has the 90* bend on the prong
https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-3012...ims&pf_rd_t=40701&refRID=SJ7H7EJEJ40THVR02J2H
 
The third one is what I use, it only depends on what the female socket looks like that you need to plug it into. The 30 amp socket on my power poles is L5-30P



0003588_328.jpeg
 
Can't you just plug into the cockpit's 120V outlet?
 
Lazy Daze said:
Can't you just plug into the cockpit's 120V outlet?
Click to expand...

I don't have an outlet top deck, so I have to run an extension cord down the companionway hatch into the outlet in the galley next to the sink. My boat only has 3x double outlets. One by the galley sink. One above the dinette table beneath the stereo. And a third one...which is now disconnected because it was always getting wet and corroded...is above the sink in the head. Nothing at all up top sides. I'd rather avoid running an extension cord into the boat and creating an ugly mess of an obstacle course for my wife and daughter and others...while I'm working on something external on the boat.

I figured these rather inexpensive little adapters would be much easier, neater, and less fuss.
 
You can certainly use the adapter - they're pretty straight forward. But... are you sure you don't have one topsides? You should. Maybe next to the captain's seat/bench area or inside a storage compartment/cubby?
 
I"d love to find that I do have one. I'll give an extra in-depth eyeball next weekend, have to admit I was surprised (bummed) that I hadn't found one tucked away in some protected (from the water) area up top sides when we first got her. (bought her end of June).
 
techmitch said:
That doesn't sound like a factory in stall. The charger should be hard wired to the panel.
Click to expand...
You are probably right on that my wiring has been upgraded and reworked at some time before I owned the boat. My house bank output is at 24v also which is nice for my windlass and fridge I gave not gotten into too much if the electrical in it yet it is our first season with it .
 
techmitch said:
That doesn't sound like a factory install. The charger should be hard wired to the panel.
Click to expand...
That is absolutely correct. And it is absolutely a bad idea - as in a BIG "no-no" for gas bilges. Outlets are specifically not allowed in gas bilges. I would get that changed as soon as possible. Keep in mind that just because it's been there and has been fine, does not mean it will continue... sparks and gas bilges don't mix very well... Well... actually they "do" mix quite well sometimes. ;)

The house bank output should still be at 12V. Batteries are wired incorrectly (series) if showing 24V.
 
Do you have a cockpit fridge? I found one hidden on the panel opposite of the cockpit fridge (if I recall, the AC to the fridge was hard wired, but came from a box on a wall, on the other side of that wall is the outlet, on my boat it is the compartment beneath the sink. I never noticed it as it was so far back.
 
Only downside of these adapters is that you don't get any GFC protection. Don't drop your buffer in a puddle.
 
Lazy Daze said:
That is absolutely correct. And it is absolutely a bad idea - as in a BIG "no-no" for gas bilges. Outlets are specifically not allowed in gas bilges. I would get that changed as soon as possible. Keep in mind that just because it's been there and has been fine, does not mean it will continue... sparks and gas bilges don't mix very well... Well... actually they "do" mix quite well sometimes. ;)

The house bank output should still be at 12V. Batteries are wired incorrectly (series) if showing 24V.
Click to expand...
 
The batteries are wired correctly they attain 24v through a voltage converter . The outlet in the engine compartment I'll look into . I don't use it for anything itgervtgan the charger and am not unplugging so no arc will occur when breaking contact. I've had the wiring inspected by the techs where I dock sooo. Any other opinions on this folks
 
YeOldeStonecat said:
When using my buffer wheel on the boat, I have to run extension cords down into my galley. I've seen some people on the docks use little adapters that plug directly into the 30 amp dock power power, like when they want to run a pump to pump out a dingy, or vacuum, etc.

Can you basically get ANY 30 to 15 amp adapter? Or are there certain specs I should look for?
I found this little guy for 8 bucks on Amazon..says 30 amps but one of the prongs looks like it's missing a 90* bend.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-PowerG...5&sr=8-14&keywords=shore+power+30+amp+adapter

Or there's this 28 dollar one here..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...4-1b19-589c-8d56-ab86cdc6778a&pf_rd_i=3398761

This one here looks like it has the 90* bend on the prong
https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-3012...ims&pf_rd_t=40701&refRID=SJ7H7EJEJ40THVR02J2H
Click to expand...


The top one is an RV 30 amp not marine. I use the $28 one and it is high quality. You have a electric outlet somewhere on the boat in the cockpit area. Look in all the corners where you plug in your power cords. Mine is hidden in that compartment on the 270.

MM
 
Handsome Transom said:
The batteries are wired correctly they attain 24v through a voltage converter . The outlet in the engine compartment I'll look into . I don't use it for anything itgervtgan the charger and am not unplugging so no arc will occur when breaking contact. I've had the wiring inspected by the techs where I dock sooo. Any other opinions on this folks
Click to expand...

This is not an opinion regarding the electrical outlet. It is fact. Your "techs" either overlooked it or are simply not versed in basic CG regulations. Doesn't matter if you're not unplugging it - it is unsafe... boats vibrate... boats flex... The point of my response was to help you.

24V... So both your windlass and fridge are 24V units? Don't see that very often. But, you're saying the batteries are wired in parallel and then use a voltage converter to power just the windlass and fridge?
 
Lazy Daze said:
This is not an opinion regarding the electrical outlet. It is fact. Your "techs" either overlooked it or are simply not versed in basic CG regulations. Doesn't matter if you're not unplugging it - it is unsafe... boats vibrate... boats flex... The point of my response was to help you.

24V... So both your windlass and fridge are 24V units? Don't see that very often. But, you're saying the batteries are wired in parallel and then use a voltage converter to power just the windlass and fridge?
Click to expand...
Yes i underztand that 7ou pount was to help and said i amvgoing to look into it . I am not overly concerned i dont run my biat plugged into dock power so not much chance iff hull flex affecting that outlet when tied to the dock . The circuit is never energized when underway or even on startup its on the transom . I am going to ask those techs why they passed by that and would like to know the cg reg to tell them . Yes on the 24v question
 
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